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A couple of quick FCR swap questions...

2K views 4 replies 3 participants last post by  spize909 
#1 ·
Hey guys,.. I've read through just about every thread I could find on swapping out the stock carb for an FCR.. (Including the all of the Sticky'd ones. ;) )


So I have an FCR in hand, and have most of the basics on order - Rebuild kit w/ jets, AP kit, 400EX Thumber, YFZ Cable, 400EX Carb to Air box tube, UNI 3x6 universal clamp on filter, .... but I still have a few questions (Go figure right? :D )


1 - I see that most feel the stock Head to Carb "intake" can be used by stretching it and lubing it up, others used a DRZ400 intake (?), yet others seem to think that a 1-7/8" ID Fuel filler tube is the route to go - I'm not a bit fan of stretching the factory intake. If the DRZ one is a confirmed option that sounds good, but what years (Part #'s) - Fuel filler hose seems to be a reasonable option and would provide some flexibility to over come any clearance and head stay issues (?) It would also be nice if folks wouldn't reference the Air Box to Carb tube as a "Intake".... that really helps add to the confusion when searching and reading through stuff ;)


2 - Keeping the Stock Air box and Lid? - My initial thoughts are to keep the air box and lid in tact to some degree. I may do a K&N air box lid or something like that, but the question is this- With the 400EX Air Box to Carb tube, and running a 3" connector pipe of some sort (Stainless or Alum. ), and a 3x6 filter, ...will I still be able to get the lid on? - It looks like there is a lot of mention of the filter riding up high inside the air box(?) - I was thinking of using a 3" Aluminum tube with a 15 deg. bend in it to sort of help point the filter "down hill" inside the air box to maybe help keep the lid on. - Interested in thoughts on this.


3 - I could have sworn I read somewhere that the 5mmx.5 pitch Tap was not the actual correct size/pitch for the Idle screw mod? ... but for some reason I can't seem to find that again (My mind is turning to mush after reading on this stuff the past few days.. :( )


If anyone has any input on any of this stuff that would be greatly appreciated :)


Thanks,
Rick


 
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#2 · (Edited)
#3 ·
Yeah I saw the spacer rings being installed,.. trying to figure out the advantage or "need" to do that (???)... seems like the short fuel hose and then the carb to air box/filter tube would give plenty of support and ridgitity to the whole assembly,.. well maybe not if you weren't running an air box or something I guess..

Thanks for the link! I didn't come across any of those pics when I was searching
 
#4 ·
Ok,. I thought of another question -


So I see where most folks are doing the Idle screw mod on the FCR (Drilling and tapping the FCR to accept the stock flexible Idle screw assembly) - The question is this - I also see where some of the Yamaha's that were equipped with the FCR has a similar set up to the Stock LTZ carb (?) ... looks like it's a smaller diameter thread and these seam to run around 25-50 bucks... Almost seems like an easier and more cost effective option (No tools to buy and no labor involved..?)


Genuine Keihin FCR MX carburetor Idle Adjuster Screw Large Knob Cable Stock OEM | eBay
 
#5 ·
the spacer in the filler tube is to smooth out the transition......the stock boot has a thinner outer ring where it clamps on and the ID is flush to the ID of the head and and carb.
I made one out of some schedule 80 pipe that I dremeled down to work. I should probably check to see if the gas has done anything to it.....
Mine (the one above is on the kids quad) has the stock drz boot. it came with the used carb I bought and I never could find what part it was. Fits perfect but I have a difference carb then yours (slant).
Not sure on the idle screw, never seen that but looks like a good option.
 
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