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Old 12-13-2004, 06:47 PM   #1 (permalink)
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This will be a words with picture information post, the pictures will be up within a day since im having problems transfering the pictures onto the computer. it will be done soon and will have furthur explained instructions. mabey it should be sticky when done since this is being asked so much and should be done by ALL z400 owners and is very easy


1. Drain Oil and coolant
2. Remove Clutch cover (the right side of the motor, the big cover)
3. Remove the valve cover on top of the motor by removing the 3 allen bolts.
4. Remove the Automatic Cam Chain tensioner on the side of the cylinder head, take out the 12mm bolt before removing the allen key bolts
5. Take out the cams by removing the journal allen key bolts
6. Remove Clutch plates by removing the 6 allen key bolts
7. Use a punch to press the washer back that is bent against the clutch spindle nut
8. Stick a rag between the clutch basket and the clutch hub and use an impact wrench to remove the nut
9. Pull the rest of the clutch assembly off
10. Now with the crankshaft gears exposed, remove the nut that holds those gears on. Be careful of the little rectangle piece in there that holds the gears in their position, most likly when you pull off the gears this piece will fall.
11. Remove the first gear on the shaft
12. Pull off the second gear enough to remove the timing chain off the gear.
13. Remove the large circurlar bolt that screws in half way up the cylinder head and let the pull the chain up through the cylinder and head
14. Now dangle your replacement chain though the head and cylinder and put the circular bolt back in the side of the head. Put the chain around the crankshaft gear (the same gear the stock timing chain was around)
15. Put all the bolts on as removed with an impact gun and bend the piece back over the clutch hub bolt.
16. Put the cams back in
17. Put the clutch cover on with a new gasket.
18. Fill up the oil and coolant and get riding
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Old 12-13-2004, 07:24 PM   #2 (permalink)
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About how long does this take?
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Old 12-15-2004, 02:41 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I changed mine a few months ago. Remove the cams. Hit one pin out of the old chain and one out of the new chain, thus breaking both. I then linked the new one onto the old one and pulled the new one in with the old one. I then joined the new one with the pin that I hit out when I began and hit the end flat again so it won't come out.
Much easier and it takes about 3 hours max.
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Old 01-25-2005, 04:56 AM   #4 (permalink)
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some pics:



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Old 01-25-2005, 09:58 AM   #5 (permalink)
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ok tnx, but can I use the impact wrench for tightening the primary drive gear nut? And some red loctite?
Cause I don't have a +50Nm wrench. Should I call some friends to see if they have it or can I just use the impact wrench?

Secondly:
Do I use red loctite on the clutch nut? And do I put it in gear to tighten the nut?


tnx a lot! :wave


Oh, and please take note: the primary drive gear nut has LEFT HAND THREADS! you don't want to use an impact wrench on "L" and get your crankshaft w00tered up.



EDIT: I've got another question: should I try to reuse the clutch cover gasket? It's in great shape, so I think it should do the job, but what's your advice/experience?
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'03 white Z
kawasaki hood
Goldspeed nerfbars
Reiger front shocks + Goldspeed shock covers
Gusseted frame
Machinist's MCCT
Homemade exhaust endcap
Snorkle baffle removed, custom airbox lid
Mikuni TM36 pumper carb
jetting: pilot screw 1,5 turns out, needle 3th clip, Mikuni 135 main
LSR axle
PD killswitch
Kenda Klaws XC 20" rear
MSD XC A-arms
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Old 01-25-2005, 11:08 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Do you guys have any problems keeping the cylinder TDC? I suppose that it doesnt matter after you get the cams off. right? just as long at it is TDC when you re install the cams. SI or NO? :dunno
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Old 02-01-2005, 04:06 AM   #7 (permalink)
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how do I tighten the primary nut? The service manual says I have to remove the left engine cover (generator side), but you seem to be able to tighten it without removing the cover :what


tnx!
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'03 white Z
kawasaki hood
Goldspeed nerfbars
Reiger front shocks + Goldspeed shock covers
Gusseted frame
Machinist's MCCT
Homemade exhaust endcap
Snorkle baffle removed, custom airbox lid
Mikuni TM36 pumper carb
jetting: pilot screw 1,5 turns out, needle 3th clip, Mikuni 135 main
LSR axle
PD killswitch
Kenda Klaws XC 20" rear
MSD XC A-arms
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Old 02-05-2005, 09:30 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Yet another question, sorry for the trouble, but ergh, when tightening the primary drive gear nut, you torque to the left (left hand threads). I have it in 5th gear, put the plug in the motor, but in that direction I am forcing my starter to turn, and that seems a little fishy to me. I won't be hurting anything right? 140Nm is a lot!

I might sound a little too cautious and scared, but if something happens to my beloved bike, the neighbour's dog sure is going to die

tnx a lot!!!
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'03 white Z
kawasaki hood
Goldspeed nerfbars
Reiger front shocks + Goldspeed shock covers
Gusseted frame
Machinist's MCCT
Homemade exhaust endcap
Snorkle baffle removed, custom airbox lid
Mikuni TM36 pumper carb
jetting: pilot screw 1,5 turns out, needle 3th clip, Mikuni 135 main
LSR axle
PD killswitch
Kenda Klaws XC 20" rear
MSD XC A-arms
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Old 02-05-2005, 09:43 AM   #9 (permalink)
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the nut just to the right of the clutch basket does not need to be removed . just remove the tentioner hold down and pull the tentioner up out of the way. then the chain will come right off .....
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Old 02-05-2005, 09:47 AM   #10 (permalink)
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a little too late m8, I already w00tered it up

Will remember for the next time I do the "common maintenance"

The question was about how I should tighten the nut
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'03 white Z
kawasaki hood
Goldspeed nerfbars
Reiger front shocks + Goldspeed shock covers
Gusseted frame
Machinist's MCCT
Homemade exhaust endcap
Snorkle baffle removed, custom airbox lid
Mikuni TM36 pumper carb
jetting: pilot screw 1,5 turns out, needle 3th clip, Mikuni 135 main
LSR axle
PD killswitch
Kenda Klaws XC 20" rear
MSD XC A-arms
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Old 02-05-2005, 05:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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torquing 140Nm is nuts, especially when you don't have the stator cover off to block the crankshaft.
Putting it in 5th gear won't work on the primary nut, gear ratio is still too high.

So I took some loctite and the impact wrech to tighten it

I don't like the idea though... I feel there's some important info missing in this write-up. :uh
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'03 white Z
kawasaki hood
Goldspeed nerfbars
Reiger front shocks + Goldspeed shock covers
Gusseted frame
Machinist's MCCT
Homemade exhaust endcap
Snorkle baffle removed, custom airbox lid
Mikuni TM36 pumper carb
jetting: pilot screw 1,5 turns out, needle 3th clip, Mikuni 135 main
LSR axle
PD killswitch
Kenda Klaws XC 20" rear
MSD XC A-arms
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Old 02-05-2005, 05:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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All u had to do is to put the motor in gear and ask a friend to hold rear wheels ... That how i did mine .
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Old 02-05-2005, 06:09 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I just called my local shop,and they said it may cost 400 or so bucks to have mine changed.I am also gettin the valves adjusted.Is there an easy way to see if mine even needs changed?Damn,I wish I could do it myself!!
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Old 02-05-2005, 06:11 PM   #14 (permalink)
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quad post were you live ... there losts of guys around that might wanna make a buck and do it for you ,much cheaper .....
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Old 02-05-2005, 06:20 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I live in western maryland......Im certain no one here will wanna do it. :cry
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