Fcr Carb Mods

SNDSLGR · 11-25-2006, 08:54 PM

The YFZ carb has the tors and tps on the choke side of the carb making it HUGE! I found two ways to get around this so I thought I would share them. Common sense applys, you dont want metal shavings in your carb so take the proper precautions. Work slow, smart, and clean.

1. Pic of carb with all the yfz junk on it.

2. Remove the black tps housing with a phillips screw driver. Next use a hack saw or cut-off wheel to make a slot in the cover screws, then use a slotted screw dirver to remove them. Remove the tors cover plate, 11mm nut on the throttle shaft, two phillips screws, and lower tors housing.

3. Next, use a hack saw or air recipro saw to cut the throttle shaft off leaving aprox. 3/16 hanging out of the carb body. Use a flap wheel on a die grinder or dremel to smooth and round shaft.

4. Now to make the cap, start with the lower tors housing.

5. Put it into a vise and use the same hack or air recipro to ROUGHLY cut out the wanted piece. Cut wide and use a bench grinder and flap wheel on a die grinder or dremel to make the finished size.

6. Check new cap for fit, open the throttle many times feeling/looking for snags, rubbing etc... Correct any that you find.

7. To finish the cap you need to use a hot glue gun, fill the screw and throttle shaft holes to create the void needed for propper operation.

8. Once glue is dry fill the cap with Devcon metal epoxy (jb weld should also work) Let it dry and sand smooth. (pic is of mine not dried or sanded smooth yet)

There you have it. Also, if you are inexperienced working with metal be very careful, work slow and smart. The metal carbs are made of is very soft and you could quickly damage something. As careful as I am to keep stuff out of my carbs when working on them I will still take them apart and do a good interior cleaning once finshed with this.

I said I had two ways, here is the second. It is a little less work but I dont think it is as good of a fix either. If you are tool challenged it could be the way to go I guess. Follow the first steps then when you are ready for the cap take the TPS housing and drill out the middle, about half way deep then screw it into place and check for snags, rubbing etc... Use a pair of dykes to cut off wires.

SNDSLGR · 11-25-2006, 10:37 PM

Also, you may notice by doing this you loose the idle knob. You can still use the cable for adjustments but here is the parts you need to add a new idle knob. I dont have mine yet but this is what you need. Parts 90, 91, and 92 below.

www.sudco.com
click// carb diagrams
click// fcr-mx

Fakie · 11-26-2006, 02:32 PM

nice write up

I'm sure there are gonna be some fcr people who appreciate this!

5.0fox · 11-27-2006, 02:36 AM

nice write up ive been wondering about this for a while now! I think it would be cool if an administrator or someone added another board just for fcr info because theres plenty of it on this site!

SNDSLGR · 11-30-2006, 08:26 PM

just ran it up the street, pulls great! I started with a 48 pilot, 178 main, middle of needle and 2 turns out on the screw.

Are all of you guys using the 400ex intake boot? The stock Z boot is just sloppy loose and almost too short.

BTW, I ended up using the stock idle screw and it worked great...and was free. Also, the throttle cable from carb parts warehouse works great, no mods needed.

davidsilas · 12-01-2006, 12:08 PM

Hey man nice write up!!

can you post the part number to that cable on here? just so it is on the first page of the how to.

SNDSLGR · 12-01-2006, 12:40 PM

Carb parts warehouse, 216-635-1099

Part# 07-0774 $34.95

5.0fox · 12-04-2006, 03:03 AM

What did you connect the stock idle screw to?

SNDSLGR · 12-05-2006, 09:24 PM

Knew I should have took a pic. Hold the carb with the throttle wheel facing you. At about the 5 o'clock position there is an indention molded into the carb body and it lines up perfect with a tab on the throttle wheel. CAREFULLY drill a 3/16 hole then thread it in, I couldnt find the right size tap so I just used the idle screw itself, works fine just takes awhile. Here is a pic of the knob mounted on the front bowl screw.

slvrblt00 · 12-18-2006, 04:22 PM

Did you use the 400ex box to carb boot? If so how did it work out compared to the fit of the stock boot. What mods did you need to do? Can you post a pic? My stock boot is a little short and would like a better fit. From the above picture it looks like it fits better.

SNDSLGR · 12-18-2006, 04:50 PM

I am using the stock boot. Loosen all the screws holding the airbox in place and make sure all the slack is used by pushing the box forward. Then attatch the boot to the carb first, the box has a nice long flange, use it.

DustinHullett · 10-10-2007, 12:18 PM

what side of the carb is the choke on??? Shouldnt it be on the outside so you can get to it? I dont see it in this pic

mrgixxer6 · 10-10-2007, 04:04 PM

QUOTE (Bombsquadrider_00 @ Oct 10 2007, 12:18 PM)

Quote:

what side of the carb is the choke on??? Shouldnt it be on the outside so you can get to it? I dont see it in this pic[/b]

Its right above the fuel line with a glare on it.. you can see the spot for the hot start plug as well right above that..
Dave

smash metal · 10-11-2007, 05:16 PM

Was there a carb size diffrence between 04 and 05 suzuki's? Im trying to installing a YFZ carb on an 04 DVX, there is no way it's going to fit betwen the carb and the head using the 400's boot.

cataway · 10-11-2007, 06:33 PM

QUOTE (SNDSLGR @ Dec 5 2006, 07:24 PM)

Quote:

Knew I should have took a pic. Hold the carb with the throttle wheel facing you. At about the 5 o'clock position there is an indention molded into the carb body and it lines up perfect with a tab on the throttle wheel. CAREFULLY drill a 3/16 hole then thread it in, I couldnt find the right size tap so I just used the idle screw itself, works fine just takes awhile. Here is a pic of the knob mounted on the front bowl screw.

[/b]

in this pic , is the carb not quite in the boot the way it should be , it looks like the
boot should be a little longer.

11-25-2006, 08:54 PM	#1 (permalink)
SNDSLGR :::Mini LT50 Rider::: Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Beaverton, Oregon Posts: 59	The YFZ carb has the tors and tps on the choke side of the carb making it HUGE! I found two ways to get around this so I thought I would share them. Common sense applys, you dont want metal shavings in your carb so take the proper precautions. Work slow, smart, and clean. 1. Pic of carb with all the yfz junk on it. 2. Remove the black tps housing with a phillips screw driver. Next use a hack saw or cut-off wheel to make a slot in the cover screws, then use a slotted screw dirver to remove them. Remove the tors cover plate, 11mm nut on the throttle shaft, two phillips screws, and lower tors housing. 3. Next, use a hack saw or air recipro saw to cut the throttle shaft off leaving aprox. 3/16 hanging out of the carb body. Use a flap wheel on a die grinder or dremel to smooth and round shaft. 4. Now to make the cap, start with the lower tors housing. 5. Put it into a vise and use the same hack or air recipro to ROUGHLY cut out the wanted piece. Cut wide and use a bench grinder and flap wheel on a die grinder or dremel to make the finished size. 6. Check new cap for fit, open the throttle many times feeling/looking for snags, rubbing etc... Correct any that you find. 7. To finish the cap you need to use a hot glue gun, fill the screw and throttle shaft holes to create the void needed for propper operation. 8. Once glue is dry fill the cap with Devcon metal epoxy (jb weld should also work) Let it dry and sand smooth. (pic is of mine not dried or sanded smooth yet) There you have it. Also, if you are inexperienced working with metal be very careful, work slow and smart. The metal carbs are made of is very soft and you could quickly damage something. As careful as I am to keep stuff out of my carbs when working on them I will still take them apart and do a good interior cleaning once finshed with this. I said I had two ways, here is the second. It is a little less work but I dont think it is as good of a fix either. If you are tool challenged it could be the way to go I guess. Follow the first steps then when you are ready for the cap take the TPS housing and drill out the middle, about half way deep then screw it into place and check for snags, rubbing etc... Use a pair of dykes to cut off wires. __________________ 04 LTZ-400 Hmf Ballance full, K&N w/Noss adptr., no lid/snorkle, FCR-39, 178m, 48plt, 50leak, ncvq-4th, boyssen quick shot. Works Triple rates, Duncan/Roll bumper, Armidillo grab, Pro-Taper SE bars, *Ims sand stars.

11-25-2006, 10:37 PM	#2 (permalink)
SNDSLGR :::Mini LT50 Rider::: Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Beaverton, Oregon Posts: 59	Also, you may notice by doing this you loose the idle knob. You can still use the cable for adjustments but here is the parts you need to add a new idle knob. I dont have mine yet but this is what you need. Parts 90, 91, and 92 below. www.sudco.com click// carb diagrams click// fcr-mx __________________ 04 LTZ-400 Hmf Ballance full, K&N w/Noss adptr., no lid/snorkle, FCR-39, 178m, 48plt, 50leak, ncvq-4th, boyssen quick shot. Works Triple rates, Duncan/Roll bumper, Armidillo grab, Pro-Taper SE bars, *Ims sand stars.

11-26-2006, 02:32 PM	#3 (permalink)
Fakie Super Moderator Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Bumfuque, Mi Posts: 8,878	nice write up I'm sure there are gonna be some fcr people who appreciate this! __________________ 2007 DRZ400SM

11-27-2006, 02:36 AM	#4 (permalink)
5.0fox :::Vinson Rider...wtf?::: Join Date: May 2006 Location: western WA Posts: 703	nice write up ive been wondering about this for a while now! I think it would be cool if an administrator or someone added another board just for fcr info because theres plenty of it on this site! __________________ 12-1 hotrods/CP 470 w/ yoshi cams, kibblewhite valves, Barnett clutch, and all drz upgrades. Enough to make 46.04HP and 33.87 ft lbs in bad conditions. Not bad for an old trail quad.

11-30-2006, 08:26 PM	#5 (permalink)
SNDSLGR :::Mini LT50 Rider::: Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Beaverton, Oregon Posts: 59	just ran it up the street, pulls great! I started with a 48 pilot, 178 main, middle of needle and 2 turns out on the screw. Are all of you guys using the 400ex intake boot? The stock Z boot is just sloppy loose and almost too short. BTW, I ended up using the stock idle screw and it worked great...and was free. Also, the throttle cable from carb parts warehouse works great, no mods needed. __________________ 04 LTZ-400 Hmf Ballance full, K&N w/Noss adptr., no lid/snorkle, FCR-39, 178m, 48plt, 50leak, ncvq-4th, boyssen quick shot. Works Triple rates, Duncan/Roll bumper, Armidillo grab, Pro-Taper SE bars, *Ims sand stars.

12-01-2006, 12:08 PM	#6 (permalink)
davidsilas :::Rookie Rider::: Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Tha south Posts: 40	Hey man nice write up!! can you post the part number to that cable on here? just so it is on the first page of the how to. __________________ 2003 ltz453. hmf, velocity intake, FCR 41mm, rental fat bars, tag bar clamp. AC Nerfs and some other goodies..

12-01-2006, 12:40 PM	#7 (permalink)
SNDSLGR :::Mini LT50 Rider::: Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Beaverton, Oregon Posts: 59	Carb parts warehouse, 216-635-1099 Part# 07-0774 $34.95 __________________ 04 LTZ-400 Hmf Ballance full, K&N w/Noss adptr., no lid/snorkle, FCR-39, 178m, 48plt, 50leak, ncvq-4th, boyssen quick shot. Works Triple rates, Duncan/Roll bumper, Armidillo grab, Pro-Taper SE bars, *Ims sand stars.

12-04-2006, 03:03 AM	#8 (permalink)
5.0fox :::Vinson Rider...wtf?::: Join Date: May 2006 Location: western WA Posts: 703	What did you connect the stock idle screw to? __________________ 12-1 hotrods/CP 470 w/ yoshi cams, kibblewhite valves, Barnett clutch, and all drz upgrades. Enough to make 46.04HP and 33.87 ft lbs in bad conditions. Not bad for an old trail quad.

12-05-2006, 09:24 PM	#9 (permalink)
SNDSLGR :::Mini LT50 Rider::: Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Beaverton, Oregon Posts: 59	Knew I should have took a pic. Hold the carb with the throttle wheel facing you. At about the 5 o'clock position there is an indention molded into the carb body and it lines up perfect with a tab on the throttle wheel. CAREFULLY drill a 3/16 hole then thread it in, I couldnt find the right size tap so I just used the idle screw itself, works fine just takes awhile. Here is a pic of the knob mounted on the front bowl screw. __________________ 04 LTZ-400 Hmf Ballance full, K&N w/Noss adptr., no lid/snorkle, FCR-39, 178m, 48plt, 50leak, ncvq-4th, boyssen quick shot. Works Triple rates, Duncan/Roll bumper, Armidillo grab, Pro-Taper SE bars, *Ims sand stars.

12-18-2006, 04:22 PM	#10 (permalink)
slvrblt00 :::Mini LT50 Rider::: Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Hutchinson, Kansas Posts: 89	Did you use the 400ex box to carb boot? If so how did it work out compared to the fit of the stock boot. What mods did you need to do? Can you post a pic? My stock boot is a little short and would like a better fit. From the above picture it looks like it fits better. __________________ 2006 ltz400 FCR39 158 main 38 pilot 5th clip Dyno tuned at Nmotion Yoshimura Comp Full SS Pro-design adapter w/ K&N & outerwear (no lid) 13T front sprocket

12-18-2006, 04:50 PM	#11 (permalink)
SNDSLGR :::Mini LT50 Rider::: Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Beaverton, Oregon Posts: 59	I am using the stock boot. Loosen all the screws holding the airbox in place and make sure all the slack is used by pushing the box forward. Then attatch the boot to the carb first, the box has a nice long flange, use it. __________________ 04 LTZ-400 Hmf Ballance full, K&N w/Noss adptr., no lid/snorkle, FCR-39, 178m, 48plt, 50leak, ncvq-4th, boyssen quick shot. Works Triple rates, Duncan/Roll bumper, Armidillo grab, Pro-Taper SE bars, *Ims sand stars.

10-10-2007, 12:18 PM	#12 (permalink)
DustinHullett :::Rookie Rider::: Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 9	what side of the carb is the choke on??? Shouldnt it be on the outside so you can get to it? I dont see it in this pic

10-11-2007, 05:16 PM	#14 (permalink)
smash metal :::Rookie Rider::: Join Date: Nov 2005 Posts: 8	Was there a carb size diffrence between 04 and 05 suzuki's? Im trying to installing a YFZ carb on an 04 DVX, there is no way it's going to fit betwen the carb and the head using the 400's boot.

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