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#1 (permalink) |
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:::LT250 Rider:::
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Does anybody have any tips on installing cams. The instructions on hotcams website are not very good. I really want to do this myself for the satisfaction of saying I did it.
Help me out guys. Thanks
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Marshall, IL 2003 z400 Aftermarket stuff being sold, then quad selling stock. |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Administrator
![]() Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Southern Arizona for awhile...
Posts: 10,396
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Haha! Okay, so far, I don't think there's been a complete install thread just about Hotcams here.
Start with what needs to be done:
*** The builder of the DRZ/LTZ Hotcams suggests this: THe Hotcams intake cam should drop right in with the shims you have from the factory, which should be in the 285-range. The stock shims in the exhaust cam are usually in the 315-range, and they'll need to be dropped by 0.20mm - so you'd install 295s into both exhaust buckets. That's where you start, and it should be pretty close, by the time you get the final measurements... Also, the Hotcams instruction sheet only lists the optimum clearances for the intake and exhaust cams - 0.15mm for the intakes, and 0.20mm for the exhausts. The tolerance range you need to hit is between 0.004~0.006" for the intakes (notice, that's in inches, not millimeters), and 0.008~0.010" for the exhausts. Here's info you need right now (minus the stock cams timing info) and that will be a great start for Hotcams installation - I'll add to this thread with the specific info... QUOTE (NormalZ @ Feb 20 2007, 10:00 AM) Quote:
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July 2005 QOTM |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Administrator
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QUOTE (ILquadrider @ May 5 2007, 10:21 AM)
Quote:
Hotcams used to come with paint marks on them that you'd use to time them. The newer versions are now punched (they have punch marks along the cam sprocket) in the same places as these paint marks. Here's what a set of Hotcams with the paint marks looks like when you've got them timed right: ![]() Depending on what you have (paint marks or punch marks), they'll still line up like that. That's how to set them in with the motor at TDC. Keep in mind that you have to get 15 pins (in the camchain) from mark-to-mark on the stock cams - not so on Hotcams. With the Hotcams, you'll have 14 1/2 pins between the marks - the Intake cam sprocket mark will right in between the 14th and 15th pin, while the Exhaust cam sprocket mark will line up right under a pin.
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July 2005 QOTM |
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#5 (permalink) |
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:::LT250 Rider:::
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Ok thanks a lot. This gives me a lot more confidence that I can do it myself. My cams used to have the paint marks but they were partially worn off so I had to get them remarked and now they have the punch marks.
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Marshall, IL 2003 z400 Aftermarket stuff being sold, then quad selling stock. |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Administrator
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With the markings on the cam sprockets timed right and the motor at TDC, like in the pic above, here's what the lobes should look like (other side of the motor):
![]() When you're measuring your valve lash, here where the feeler gauges go in - right under each cam lobe. Angled feeler gauges work great.
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July 2005 QOTM |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Administrator
![]() Join Date: Sep 2003
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Bump - lots of cam timing questions lately...
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July 2005 QOTM |
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#9 (permalink) |
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:::Mini LT50 Rider:::
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this should be stickied or pinned.
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2006' White Z400-The Honda Killer!!! Mod Quad Blue Gas Cap With Custom Chain Holder, Mod Quad Blue Flame Shock Covers, Maier Complete Plastics, Z400 Custom Graphics With Gripper Seat Cover, PRM Desert Grab Bar, Set of Handlebar Mounted Torches Bare Gusseted Powder coated Blue Frame & Subframe. Alba Steering Stabilizer, ITP C-Series Black Rims with HoleShot Hd's, Holeshot Gncc Fronts On Black Itp T9 Rims, DG Steel Series Nerf Bars, DG Aluminum Complete Protection Package, Sidewinder 13-38 Tool Steel Sprocket and Smart Chain, G-force Axle, Black Pro Armor Fat Peg Nerfs. K&N Air Filter, HMF Sport Series Blue Pipe, Drze Kit, Kimblewhite Valves, 400Ex Air Boot CFM Aluminum Oil tank with Modquad Dipstick, Intake and Exhaust Hotcams, Dyna Nonprogrammable Cdi, Pro Circuit Stainless Head Pipe, FCR 39mm. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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:::LT500 Rider:::
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Barry's Bay
Posts: 1,101
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this is a great thread lots of info. when i had my cams installed at my dealer i noticed a pretty bad ticking sound from the top end of my engine. I figured something was wrong so i tore it down and sent the head back in to have some kibble white valves installed while i was installing the D.I.D. cam chain. when i got it back from them they told me that the chain guard / slider that is bolted to the top of the cam journals, was too close to the cam gears and the small bolts that hold the sprocket on the cam shaft was just barely hitting the guide/slider. so they modified it so that it could push back farther away from the sprocket, after i had it all installed i turned the engine completly threw to make sure it never touched and now it seems to be missing it now. I have not got it running yet still need to put the carb on and exhaust but i will let you guys now if that helped stop that stupid tick that the engine makes.
aparently the cam gears are thicker on the hotcams than the stockers.
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My Ride: 2003 Z470 Cylinder Works jug , Hot rods +5mm stroker crank, CP stroker piston, Stage 3 / Old School hot cams, DRZ valve springs, +1mm Ferrea valves, Port and polished head, D.I.D 3/4 pitch camchain, K&N Air filter with 400ex air boot, Sudco/Sparks FCR 41 mm carb, R&D accelerator pump with adjustable leak jet 1.5 turns out, 50 pilot 185 main jet, needle on 3rd clip 2.0 turns out with edelbrock headstay mount, LRD custom aluminum air box, FMF Factory 4 exhaust, Dyna FS CDI, Dirt digger clutch, Janssen outlaw ball joints, GT Thunder Shocks, GT Thunder Linkage, Janssen MX-Tech +2 A-arms, Maxxis razr cross Front and ITP SX rear tires, ITP T9 Front Rims Douglas single beadlock rear rims, H-bomb Decal Kit, Maier race plastics Pro Armor Mx bumper and Skids, Moose Racing nerfs, Streamline Front and Rear Brake lines, Bare Performance Gusset Kit, powermadd hanguards, maximizer foot pegs, UM rad shrouds, moose racing brake block off plate, JB racing swing arm, twin row honda style axle carrier, honda 400ex hubs and rear brake caliper, RPM +4" axle, lonestar antifade honda brake hub. Front and rear lowering kit for ice racing, Herrmann racing +1" steering stem, Pro Taper Contour Bars, ODI lock on Grips. Wifes Ride: 2008 Raptor 250 Special Edition GYTR skid plates CT racing Jet kit CT racing Complete exhaust Pro Design pro flow intake Friends dont let Friends drive stock quads!! |
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#12 (permalink) |
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:::Mini LT50 Rider:::
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Somerset Ky
Posts: 91
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I know that there are several people running 2 stage 2 exhaust hotcams in there engines since they are the same exact cam however how do i get them correct in time.
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2004 White Z400, Drze kit, DID cam chain, Wiseco 12.2:1 piston, Kibble White valves, Yoshimura RS-3 complete system, YFZ450 FCR 39 carb with spring mod and boysen quickshot, 400ex airbox boot, K&N filter and precharger, Airbox lid removed, Gforce rear widening hubs, Motoworks bumper, Factory Effex Graphix, 2005 trx450r shocks, Trailtech dash and endurance computer, Pro taper fatbars, Pair stage 1 hotcams. |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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:::LT500 Rider:::
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Kent, WA
Posts: 1,643
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QUOTE (znewbie @ Dec 7 2007, 07:47 PM)
Quote:
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Green 06 KFX 400 Yoshi full system New Style Hotcams ESR intake w/splash guard Pro Armor chassis skid AC nerf bars/w heel guards Denton steering stabilizer 13t sprocket FCR 39 155 main, 45 pilot, 45 leak 3rd clip on needle 2 turns |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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:::Mini LT50 Rider:::
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Somerset Ky
Posts: 91
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i am not finding the exact info that i am looking for in this post.
QUOTE (KFXguy2006 @ Dec 8 2007, 02:06 AM) Quote:
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2004 White Z400, Drze kit, DID cam chain, Wiseco 12.2:1 piston, Kibble White valves, Yoshimura RS-3 complete system, YFZ450 FCR 39 carb with spring mod and boysen quickshot, 400ex airbox boot, K&N filter and precharger, Airbox lid removed, Gforce rear widening hubs, Motoworks bumper, Factory Effex Graphix, 2005 trx450r shocks, Trailtech dash and endurance computer, Pro taper fatbars, Pair stage 1 hotcams. |
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