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Old 05-03-2007, 10:46 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Does anybody have any tips on installing cams. The instructions on hotcams website are not very good. I really want to do this myself for the satisfaction of saying I did it.

Help me out guys.

Thanks
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Old 05-03-2007, 11:10 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Haha! Okay, so far, I don't think there's been a complete install thread just about Hotcams here.

Start with what needs to be done:
  • Strip the quad down (gas tank and front plastics removed)
  • Valve cover removal
  • TDC setting
  • Measuring the clearances (valve lash) you have with the stock cams in there
  • ACCT removal
  • Cam cover removal
  • Cam removal
  • Cam chain control (keeping it from dropping down into the lower block)
  • Removing the tappets, and checking the shim sizes you have in there now
  • Replacing the shims you have with what you'll need for the Hotcams (*** read below)
  • New cam installation, with cam timing (verifying timing - includes ACCT re-installation)
  • Replacing cam journal covers
  • Measuring valve lash with the new cams
  • Adjusting shims again (if necessary)
  • Buttoning up the motor
  • Breaking in the new cams, and checking valve lash
Those are the steps involved, and what you must do, so we'll get to it. I'd like to get to this and do a video on it, and that might happen this weekend (Saturday). I've got Hotcams in the Z motors that I have, but I'll go through it all.

*** The builder of the DRZ/LTZ Hotcams suggests this:
THe Hotcams intake cam should drop right in with the shims you have from the factory, which should be in the 285-range. The stock shims in the exhaust cam are usually in the 315-range, and they'll need to be dropped by 0.20mm - so you'd install 295s into both exhaust buckets. That's where you start, and it should be pretty close, by the time you get the final measurements...

Also, the Hotcams instruction sheet only lists the optimum clearances for the intake and exhaust cams - 0.15mm for the intakes, and 0.20mm for the exhausts. The tolerance range you need to hit is between 0.004~0.006" for the intakes (notice, that's in inches, not millimeters), and 0.008~0.010" for the exhausts.

Here's info you need right now (minus the stock cams timing info) and that will be a great start for Hotcams installation - I'll add to this thread with the specific info...

QUOTE (NormalZ @ Feb 20 2007, 10:00 AM)
Quote:
TDC. Get the motor at TDC first. Don't line up the "T", line up the vertical line to the left of the "T," just as mentioned above.

Two green circles in this pic. Timing marks are on the side of the flywheel under the inspection plug in the top green circle. Take out the inspection plug in the bottom green circle to access the nut to turn the crank over by hand. Much easier with the sparkplug out. Observe through the top hole, inspection plug removed, until you see the timing mark come up. It'll look like a "T" with a verticle line to the left of the "T." Line up that line with the arrow on the sidecase. That's TDC. Make sure you only turn the crank counterclockwise, and keep the camchain up and out of the way, so it doesn't get bound around the camchain drive gear.



Here's what the marks should line up, when you're dead-nutz on TDC:



After you get TDC set, you need to set the cams up just like this:



When you think you're timed right on the cams, check to make sure the motor is still at TDC. To verify that your cams are timed right, stick your finger in the ACCT hole, and push on the cam chain guide - watch the cam sprockets, and see if it's still timed right; see if they move. If it's good, bolt in the ACCT. Once the ACCT is bolted in (7lb/ft on the housing bolts and 21.5lb/ft on the center bolt, holding the spring), then recheck TDC, and recheck the timing on the cam sprockets. Next, bolt down the cam journal covers.

You have to have the cam journal covers tightened down (7lb/ft) in order to get an accurate measurement for the valve lash. If the valve lash if off (not between the tolerance range listed below), then you have to tear the whole thing back down and change shims. Bring it all back up, and measure again. If you measure accurately, and calculate it right, you'll only have to take it down once.

After you get TDC set, then you get the cams timed, and get the cams bolted down, then you measure your clearances.

Stock Intakes:
0.10~0.20mm

Stock Exhausts:
0.20~0.30mm

If you do all those steps, in order and accurately, and that doesn't start your engine... Then the problem isn't timing or valve lash.

Happy Wrenching![/b]
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Old 05-05-2007, 01:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Thanks a lot. Thats a lot of good information. Can't wait to hear the rest of what you have.
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Old 05-07-2007, 08:19 PM   #4 (permalink)
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QUOTE (ILquadrider @ May 5 2007, 10:21 AM)
Quote:
Thanks a lot. Thats a lot of good information. Can't wait to hear the rest of what you have.[/b]
The post above deals with timing a stock-cam setup, and about the only difference between what's above and what you'll need to do will be adjusting/timing the Hotcams.

Hotcams used to come with paint marks on them that you'd use to time them. The newer versions are now punched (they have punch marks along the cam sprocket) in the same places as these paint marks. Here's what a set of Hotcams with the paint marks looks like when you've got them timed right:



Depending on what you have (paint marks or punch marks), they'll still line up like that. That's how to set them in with the motor at TDC.

Keep in mind that you have to get 15 pins (in the camchain) from mark-to-mark on the stock cams - not so on Hotcams. With the Hotcams, you'll have 14 1/2 pins between the marks - the Intake cam sprocket mark will right in between the 14th and 15th pin, while the Exhaust cam sprocket mark will line up right under a pin.
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Old 05-09-2007, 11:06 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Ok thanks a lot. This gives me a lot more confidence that I can do it myself. My cams used to have the paint marks but they were partially worn off so I had to get them remarked and now they have the punch marks.
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Old 05-09-2007, 11:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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With the markings on the cam sprockets timed right and the motor at TDC, like in the pic above, here's what the lobes should look like (other side of the motor):



When you're measuring your valve lash, here where the feeler gauges go in - right under each cam lobe. Angled feeler gauges work great.

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Old 05-25-2007, 08:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Bump - lots of cam timing questions lately...
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Old 09-27-2007, 09:55 AM   #8 (permalink)
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QUOTE (NormalZ @ May 25 2007, 05:58 PM)
Quote:
Bump - lots of cam timing questions lately...[/b]
Bump again
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Old 09-28-2007, 08:13 PM   #9 (permalink)
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this should be stickied or pinned.
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Old 09-30-2007, 10:05 AM   #10 (permalink)
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this is a great thread lots of info. when i had my cams installed at my dealer i noticed a pretty bad ticking sound from the top end of my engine. I figured something was wrong so i tore it down and sent the head back in to have some kibble white valves installed while i was installing the D.I.D. cam chain. when i got it back from them they told me that the chain guard / slider that is bolted to the top of the cam journals, was too close to the cam gears and the small bolts that hold the sprocket on the cam shaft was just barely hitting the guide/slider. so they modified it so that it could push back farther away from the sprocket, after i had it all installed i turned the engine completly threw to make sure it never touched and now it seems to be missing it now. I have not got it running yet still need to put the carb on and exhaust but i will let you guys now if that helped stop that stupid tick that the engine makes.

aparently the cam gears are thicker on the hotcams than the stockers.
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Old 09-30-2007, 05:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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QUOTE (rumlesj1 @ Sep 30 2007, 10:05 AM)
Quote:
aparently the cam gears are thicker on the hotcams than the stockers.[/b]
I had to grind on my top chain guide for it to clear the hotcams.
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Old 12-07-2007, 10:47 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I know that there are several people running 2 stage 2 exhaust hotcams in there engines since they are the same exact cam however how do i get them correct in time.
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Old 12-08-2007, 02:06 AM   #13 (permalink)
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QUOTE (znewbie @ Dec 7 2007, 07:47 PM)
Quote:
I know that there are several people running 2 stage 2 exhaust hotcams in there engines since they are the same exact cam however how do i get them correct in time.[/b]
Read above post, will tell you everything you need to know.
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Old 12-08-2007, 12:35 PM   #14 (permalink)
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i am not finding the exact info that i am looking for in this post.
QUOTE (KFXguy2006 @ Dec 8 2007, 02:06 AM)
Quote:
Read above post, will tell you everything you need to know.[/b]
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Old 12-08-2007, 02:06 PM   #15 (permalink)
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install the exhaust side cam first.....then line the timing marks up the oppisote on the the other side.
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