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#1 (permalink) |
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:::Rookie Rider:::
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Denton, TX
Posts: 27
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I have a 2008 LTZ and want to get more power what should I do? I don't really want to do a big bore but if i did what would I need to do for a 440 or 434? But my real question is what should I do cams, port/polish, bigger carb for more stock engine power? Suggestions will help about to start build.
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#3 (permalink) |
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:::LT500 Rider:::
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Holt, Mo
Posts: 1,736
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You could search it. There is so many threads about this. You will get dozens of answers and none the same. You really have to pin point what area you want to improve. Suspension is always overlooked, you need it to go faster keep that in mind.
__________________
03 Z400, Fly Aluma Steel Bars, Blob removed, fly kill switch, ASV levers, Power Madd hand gaurds, MQ park brake block, DG O-series pipe with Curtis sparks header, Pro Armor full nerfs with heel gaurd, CST Ambush Front and Rears, GBC Sand shark and shark fins on douglas blue label, No lid,pro design air filter, no snorkel, 6000k HID conversion, procom cdi, 06 ressie shocks, FCR39 tuned. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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:::Z-250 Rider:::
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Broken Arrow ok
Posts: 512
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Stroke it before the big bore!
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03 Athena bbk,k.w.springs,port&polish,dyna prog, web540-540, Procircuit fullsystem ,39mmfcr, custom airbox intake built by me w/400ex tube and +4hotrods, Rekluse clutch, Elka LT shocks, burgaurd+2 a-arms, Protaper bars, ASV levers, ODI grips, AC propeg nerfs, ATV foreplay? +1 1/4swinger, Maxxis razor2S, black hyper wheels, Houser plus 1 stem, HID conversion, modded yamaha parking brake, G-force axle, and a woodsrider129 rotorgaurd and quick change clutch cover! |
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#5 (permalink) |
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:::LT500 Rider:::
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Westchester NY
Posts: 1,245
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First, before anything, get a manual cam chain tensioner so you don't wreck your timing chain. Secondly, get a good intake that seals the air box well so no unfiltered air can get past, to prevent valvetrain failure. After those two, work your way into some head work. Cams, valves, port and polish, etc. They're all good. Before you do a big bore, make sure the engine can breath well. You wouldn't want to waste all that time and money on something that won't perform as well as an engine with simpler mods to just get the engine breathing better.
__________________
2003 Suzuki Z400 - SOLD ![]() Fully Worked & Race Ready, '98 Yamaha YZ125 - My New Toy
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#7 (permalink) |
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:::Official Spammer:::
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 3,356
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15 tooth will slow you down, unless you're going for top speed.
Use the search function, there's countless threads on this and all will tell you the same thing. Carb/intake/FULL exhaust/drze basegasket......big bore/stroker/headwork/cams
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05' Z434 12.5:1CP,Full Yosh TRC,FCR40,175/45,Rat Stack,Dyna Programmable,AMR Coil,KW Valvetrain,536/540 Web's,DID Tchain,PWR Radiator,Raptor petcock,Gunnar Kill,Elka S3 Front+Rear w/link,Roll+1 Stem,GPR Stabilizer,SL Hyd.Clutch,Tag T2,LSR+3 Arms,Burgard+1 Swinger,Quadtech Rad Shrouds,Supersprox 14/40t,UM Air Box,YFZ Calipers,SS Lines,PA Bumper,Asv's,Roll Nerfs/Heels/Pegs,LSR Axcalibar,Douglas G2 Beadlocks/Razr's,Hid,YFZTail,Pwrmadd's,TT Vapor+Dash,CV4's,RickyStator. July 2011 QOTM
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#10 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
![]() Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Southern Minnesota
Posts: 6,432
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If I were you, assuming that you're stock, first buy a good full exhaust system ( a header and silencer, slip on's are just noise makers) Pull the lid off the air box, get an FCR 39 and a 400EX intake boot, change over to a clamp on style filter, and see if that's enough, or if you have budget for more. Everything to this point is easily reversible, and not crazy expensive depending on which exhaust you get.
If you want and can afford more, now it's decision making time. Are you going big bore or not? Do you want low end power? High end power? Mid power? The first thing that should be addressed at this point is valvetrain. Bigger cams and a rev box will help you out, but not until you put valves, valve springs, and a timing chain in it that can handle it. Also since you're going into the engine, it's a good time for a DRZ kit and a manual cam chain tensioner. Cam choice will depend on a combination of where in the rpm range, you want your engine to have the most power, and how many cc's, and what compression your engine will be. Porting can be a good thing at this point also, but it too depends on what you are building.
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03 LT-Z 470 Max Power 12.5:1 94mm Piston, Hot Rods +5 Stroker Crank, Web Cams 539 (+6) IN / 539 EX, with Hot Cams sprockets, Ferrea +1 Valves, LTZ/DRZ springs (IN)DRZ springs (EX), DRZ Manual Decomp. Ported head, FCR 41 with Noss adaptor, Home made intake, Modified HMF Full System, Home made header, Trailtech flywheel, Dyna Programable 54hp 36ft lbs
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#11 (permalink) |
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:::Mini LT50 Rider:::
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Ashland, Kentucky
Posts: 112
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if you have a budget and want the best gain for the money I would start with a properly jetted FCR carb. intake boot is a descent gain and cheap if you buy it used. a full exhaust will also make a world of difference. those will give you the biggest gains
heads will usually eventually fail bacause of cupped valves. so if you have to go into the motor i would replace the valves with kibblewhite and buy some DRZ valve springs because the stockers are notorious for being weak. also a cam would be a good gain as well and you can usually pick up some hot cams used for a reasonable price. if you pull the head and cylinder i would also replace the rings atleast and use a drz base gasket for the added compression. The list goes on but for the money i would get 1. FCR carb ( just bought a used sudco for $100 )( jet kit about $70) 2.full exhaust system ( 3.400ex intake boot ( used around 25 on ebay ) about $500 will gain you alot of power if you use it on the right parts.
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06 KFX 400 437 12:1 kibblewhite SUDCO FCR AC Racing DG ITP Pro Armor Uni |
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