drze

[ltz400dave]

i still have to go to the auto stor and get a torque wrench that will work with small numbers

[ltz400dave]

Originally Posted by wheatez

I dont have drz springs in front of me but most springs one end has tighter wound coils which that end goes towards the bottom of the head.

i put the paint marks up since they didnt come with any kind of instructions. they look the same up or down, so i just put the paint up.

Originally Posted by atv4life;

I'm not too familiar with the washers on the cylinder head for the Z, but are they copper washers? I know on all the 2 stroke bikes i've taken apart they always had copper washers for the head. Not sure if it's the same with 4T engines as well. As for lubing the cylinder, it would be best to lube up the cylinder walls with oil. I would personally use a little 2 stroke oil since all that stuffs probably going to burn anyway once you fire it up, and 2T oil is meant to burn.

people say not to lube the cylinder cus it will glaze the wall on fire up thats why i ask, i dont know what to do because its a toss up. to do it or not.

[atv4life95]

That's ridiculous.. Everytime i've ever put an engine together, i've always lubed the cylinder wall. That doesn't make any sense at all if you ask me. How could it glaze the cylinder wall? It's oil. I'm pretty sure when you are storing away a vehicle for a long period of time, you're supposed to put a little bit of oil in the cylinders to keep the rings from sticking.. I don't see how starting up a vehicle after doing that, or starting one up for the first time after a rebuild with a little bit of oil on the cylinder walls is any different. I'd just lube them and forget about it.

[ltz400dave]

yeah i guess ill lube the cylinder a bit. i took some night time pics of the head and jug painted. the pics are kinda fuzzy but you get the idea on how it is. when the misses gets home im going to the store to rent a torque wrench so i can have this thing about ready to start before the superbowl. i was up to 2am eastern time getting the jug and head put together. she looks real good now. i thought about big bore but im thinking since its a trail bike im gonna buy a brand new oem cylinder and piston and redo the the jug over in about 2 months i want wiseco rings so this way i know the cylinder will last a long time. on the cylinder i bought after cleaning it up and all i seen the nik was REAL thin and probably wont last 2 long so im going to switch it up in a wile.
these pics are from 2am sorry so crappy. the paint is 1000 degree exhaust manifold paint. strong as hell with a 500 degree clear coat on it. the over spray you see has been cleaned off and internally they are spotless

[decentZ89]

Originally Posted by ltz400dave

yeah i guess ill lube the cylinder a bit. i took some night time pics of the head and jug painted. the pics are kinda fuzzy but you get the idea on how it is. when the misses gets home im going to the store to rent a torque wrench so i can have this thing about ready to start before the superbowl. i was up to 2am eastern time getting the jug and head put together. she looks real good now. i thought about big bore but im thinking since its a trail bike im gonna buy a brand new oem cylinder and piston and redo the the jug over in about 2 months i want wiseco rings so this way i know the cylinder will last a long time. on the cylinder i bought after cleaning it up and all i seen the nik was REAL thin and probably wont last 2 long so im going to switch it up in a wile.
these pics are from 2am sorry so crappy. the paint is 1000 degree exhaust manifold paint. strong as hell with a 500 degree clear coat on it

yeah i would put some sort of oil in the cylinder prior to fire up..
let us know how that paint holds up..i have had terrible luck with "high temp" paint..never holds up peels first time every time lol. thats why im glad i have my powder coater now
and lets go giants woooooooo

[ltz400dave]

ive used this paint on my mustang headers before and it held up great untill i used engine degreaser and then it started to peal and fade away. i dont think im going to be using that stuff this atv tho lol

[ltz400dave]

bump on the head bolt washers.... can i use any kind of washer of the same size to replace the 2 that are missing?

[ltz400dave]

Ok gonna hit the auto store today to try and find 4 washers that match the 2 I got the beat I can and torque my head down today. What should the torque be 35lbs? 18 first?

[jasmf24]

Originally Posted by ltz400dave

Ok gonna hit the auto store today to try and find 4 washers that match the 2 I got the beat I can and torque my head down today. What should the torque be 35lbs? 18 first?

As far as the torque spec, I'm not sure, check the manual. I personally would order the stock washers from the dealer, but thats just me. Maybe they'll turn up?

[007kfx]

don't use copper washers...the torque spec will fade with heat cycles....try hitting up a GOOD hardware store and see if you can match the remaining 2 that you have...Just make sure they match...a bit thicker would'nt hurt but "I" would not go any thinner......I beleive they are a 10mm flat washer........At the very least head to the stealership,,,,Also when assmbling make sure to get some assembly lube, and lube the area between washer and head of bolt....not between washer and head

[jasmf24]

Originally Posted by 007kfx

don't use copper washers...the torque spec will fade with heat cycles....try hitting up a GOOD hardware store and see if you can match the remaining 2 that you have...Just make sure they match...a bit thicker would'nt hurt but "I" would not go any thinner......I beleive they are a 10mm flat washer........At the very least head to the stealership,,,,Also when assmbling make sure to get some assembly lube, and lube the area between washer and head of bolt....not between washer and head

Maybe I'm wrong, but aren't the stock washers copper?

[ltz400dave]

They look aluminum to me not copper that's for sure

[007kfx]

They used the copper washer's as a fix of some sort...DO NOT USE COPPER!!!!! the stock ones are aluminum or steel not copper.If you send cfm-440 a pm he can explain why the copper is used but he told me to absolutely not to use them I forget the reason now...I know that it plays with torque specs......artic-cat used them on the dvx as part of a recall that there was.... I would think that you could find a suitable replacement at a Decent hardware store...... remember no thinner than what the stock ones are...A touch thicker should be just fine....

[wheatez]

I know u prob dont want to wait but Id goto a dealer and get the stock steel ones or pick up some used ones from a member here. The athena cylinder kits came with copper washers but i think thats the only kit that had copper on our machine.

[ltz400dave]

well i did what i had to do today got washers and yes there aluminum, got the head on and whole engine assembled. upon looking over the frame before all of it goes back together, i notice a nice crack on the steering stem mount. frame is cracked at the weld. so it looks like i will be doing a frame after all petty soon. before putting the jug and head back on i also see some big beautiful deep marks where chain came off and hit the case, no holes but nice deep marks. ill be getting a case saver shortly as well. any recommendations? so all is back together and looking great, i kept the spark plug wire off and cranked it over with out the gas connected as well. sounds like every thing is in order. tomorrow im filling her up with 93 and camII. fire her up and see how i did.