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#1 (permalink) |
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:::Rookie Rider:::
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Hi guys. I have been out of the forum for a while and recently have been reading about the Kibblewhite valves, but have not really found a post to understand the convenience of these valves.
Could anyone explain me what is the difference between having the Kibblewhites instead of the stock valves. Is it reliability and durability, or performance? Are these valves better for modified engines (hotcams, big bore kit, CDI, etc.) for racing??? How about trail riding??? All your sharing knowledge is welcome!!!! TKS
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<span style="color:#009900"> 2003 KFX - Green, Complete Yoshi exhaust, Edellbrock Carb, 440 Wiseco Big Bore Kit-Sleeve, 12.5 piston, Port Polished, Iridium spark plug, Hotcams Stage 1, DRZ Kit & base gasket, K&N air filter, EHS Racing modified lid cover, Dynatek variable CDI, Trailtech Vapor Computer, 4 Gln fuel tank, AC Nerf Bars, AC Front Bumper, LTR 450 front shocks, steering damper, front and rear shock covers, skid plate, frame skid, rear shock plate, arm guards, 6 pack rear rack, Warn 1.5 CI winch, and . . . . . . . . . . . . what else would you suggest? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
![]() Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Southern Minnesota
Posts: 6,437
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The stock valves are junk. They are a cheap, steel, 2 piece design that is inertia welded together, which can bring big problems. This is not anything special at all. They are cheap to build in massive ammounts, that is the style that comes stock in most automotive applications.
You might say, "well my cars have never had valve problems," But your car does not frequent 9100RPM like your Z does. Hell, could you imagine Nascar running something like that? That would be comparable RPM. The Kibbles are a One piece, stainless steel design which are durable as hell! They are not welded together like the stockers, so they wont break off and fall into the engine like some of the stock type have. They will outlast the stockers also because Stainless steel is harder. The stock valves have a bad problem with cupping also which ruins them. It happened to me.
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03 LT-Z 470 Max Power 12.5:1 94mm Piston, Hot Rods +5 Stroker Crank, Web Cams 539 (+6) IN / 539 EX, with Hot Cams sprockets, Ferrea +1 Valves, LTZ/DRZ springs (IN)DRZ springs (EX), DRZ Manual Decomp. Ported head, FCR 41 with Noss adaptor, Home made intake, Modified HMF Full System, Home made header, Trailtech flywheel, Dyna Programable 54hp 36ft lbs
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#3 (permalink) |
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:::LT250 Rider:::
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he is right i have read probley a hundret treds saying the same thing about the stockers
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2004 ltz 434 434 athena -old style stage 2 hot cams-drz valve springs-kibble white valves drz 3/4 chain-drz base gasket-fmf high flow header-scorpion slip on -dyna non programable-asv clutch perch w/ hot start as reverse- renthal far bars mcgrath bend trail teck bar clamp dg pro nerfs-ac front bumper-extreme eng. grab bar-itp hole shots rear 18x8 on itp t-9 pro baja rims-itp hole shots front 19x6 t-9 pro polished rims-oury grips-alum air box-k&n w/ outer wares- ex 400 air box to carb boot drz carb to head boot <span style="color:#000000"> -fcr 40mm w/ cable and twist throttle from a 06 crf 250- it's all for sale ktm here i come |
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#4 (permalink) |
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:::Ozark 250 rider:::
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: liberty Mo
Posts: 344
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also if you look at both side by side they have different
angles built in. im not a flow expert nor do i have a flow bench but by looks alone id say they flow more than stock with the diff angle cut. |
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#5 (permalink) |
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:::LT500 Rider:::
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Great White North
Posts: 1,343
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I know KW have a huge following here on Zcentral but some of the other forums don't have as good a reviews. I have read that there was a bad batch of KW valves that were not of the correct hardness and worn out extremely fast. That was a while back and not an issue anymore. I haven't had any probs with my stockers to this point but it is well documented from others.
Those that surf a little may be familiar or heard of Ron Hamp, aka RHC over at Thumper Talk. He is VERY renowned for his work and accomplishments with the DRZ (LTZ) heads. He has valves made and coated to his own specifications based on extensive flow bench and dyno tuning. As expected, they are more expensive than the KW at $46 ea.
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Drinks well with others 08 Raptor 700 - Lots of motor stuff, lots of suspension things and good rubber bits 03 Z400 - wifey machine, mild engine and the Rekluse auto clutch 03 Z400 - my old ride, go'n back together Maxima Racing Oils - simply the best |
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#9 (permalink) | |
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:::LT500 Rider:::
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Great White North
Posts: 1,343
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QUOTE (Fakie @ Mar 10 2007, 11:34 AM)
Quote:
Of course, being a Yellow Z400 is the reason these bits are lasting so long.
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Drinks well with others 08 Raptor 700 - Lots of motor stuff, lots of suspension things and good rubber bits 03 Z400 - wifey machine, mild engine and the Rekluse auto clutch 03 Z400 - my old ride, go'n back together Maxima Racing Oils - simply the best |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Super Moderator
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QUOTE (SprinterX @ Mar 10 2007, 03:32 PM)
Quote:
you know it! yellow is gotta be the reason
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2007 DRZ400SM |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Super Moderator
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QUOTE (N.J.C. @ Mar 10 2007, 05:03 PM)
Quote:
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2007 DRZ400SM |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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:::LT500 Rider:::
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Great White North
Posts: 1,343
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QUOTE(N.J.C. @ Mar 10 2007, 05:03 PM)
That's what I like! I like it when guys look at mine like "oh, it's just another one of those 400's". QUOTE (Fakie @ Mar 10 2007, 02:07 PM) Quote:
Most anyone with the cash can walk in and buy a 450 and that's kewl too. One of the things I like most about my Z is it's the way I built it. Many bits and pieces are fab'd up in my own garage, come from my ideas or those shared by fellow Z enthusiasts. When I can pull my fat a$$ up beside some hotdogs 450, lay a whoop'n on him and then get to enjoy the distraught look on his face makes it all that more fun. Yea, I'll probably move on to another machine down the road and start the process again, but for now this is doing it for me. Cheers, Kirk
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Drinks well with others 08 Raptor 700 - Lots of motor stuff, lots of suspension things and good rubber bits 03 Z400 - wifey machine, mild engine and the Rekluse auto clutch 03 Z400 - my old ride, go'n back together Maxima Racing Oils - simply the best |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Super Moderator
![]() Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Southern Minnesota
Posts: 6,437
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QUOTE (Fakie @ Mar 10 2007, 02:34 PM)
Quote:
You guys might just be the only ones that clean your air filter as often as you should I think that plays a big role in the cupping problem that the stockers have. I know when mine went, that was back when I treated my quad like sh*t, and I hadnt ever cleaned the filter. I learned my lesson. I really enjoy having a sleeper also! It took me 6mo to have a problem with a fully stock engine. I have had my 440 going for a full year now, and not one problem. As a matter of fact, I did a leak down test on it last night, 1/2%-1% leak down! They dont get better than that!
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03 LT-Z 470 Max Power 12.5:1 94mm Piston, Hot Rods +5 Stroker Crank, Web Cams 539 (+6) IN / 539 EX, with Hot Cams sprockets, Ferrea +1 Valves, LTZ/DRZ springs (IN)DRZ springs (EX), DRZ Manual Decomp. Ported head, FCR 41 with Noss adaptor, Home made intake, Modified HMF Full System, Home made header, Trailtech flywheel, Dyna Programable 54hp 36ft lbs
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#15 (permalink) |
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:::Mini LT80 Rider:::
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 229
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a word of advice -- change your valves every year if you ride alot.
my yellow z has always had stock valves and i have never had a problem. knock on wood. compared to alot of other valves the stock suzuki valves are actually a very good flowing valve. if you notice there is very little room to backcut a set of stock valves. of course i change my air filter or clean it after every ride. dirty air is what cups valves like cfm said. my brother had a yellow Z and when we put new valves in it we put stock ones in it and he was a frequent visiter to the rev limiter but never had any problems. a valve doesn't just fall apart on its own. if you have a stock valve laying around that is junk then clamp it in a vice and try to smack the bottop of it off with a hammer. it is going to bend before it breaks off. most of the time a broke valve is not the valves fault at all. it is uaually the combo of a stock spring and hi rev cdi. something has to happen for the valve to break. this is usually due to extensive overrevving and a valve floating followed by a introduction of aluminum to steel which is a relationship that will usually end up in disaster. ya it is fun to rev a motor and hear it scream but we have to face it sooner than later --- we aren't on two strokes anymore!!!! |
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