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Old 06-06-2008, 04:31 PM   #1 (permalink)
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This used to be in the tech section, but for some reason it's been taken down. I forgot I had it and have been noticing alot of people asking what to do when they over torque their cam journals and they crack or strip out the threads. Well here's the step by step process, in this link. It's also pinned in the Maintenance/Repairs section now too.

http://www.z400central.com/tech/Articles/T...1/techtip01.htm
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Old 06-17-2008, 11:32 PM   #2 (permalink)
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QUOTE (N.J.C. @ Jun 6 2008, 12:31 PM)
Quote:
This used to be in the tech section, but for some reason it's been taken down. I forgot I had it and have been noticing alot of people asking what to do when they over torque their cam journals and they crack or strip out the threads. Well here's the step by step process, in this link. It's also pinned in the Maintenance/Repairs section now too.

http://www.z400central.com/tech/Articles/T...1/techtip01.htm[/b]
On this subject im am pro my blaster had the same problems with the external combustioon chamber clogged and the cam was off camber. The vavle was also jewed because the internal combustion chamber was clogged to but but i put deilsel fuel in it for more acceleration and no oil (oil is to heavy) when i have oil in it it runs so gay it sounds like it supposed too i think that weird idk bout you but anyway if u run oil in your quad it blow your camshafts to peices especially if its a 2 stroke
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Old 06-18-2008, 12:18 AM   #3 (permalink)
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QUOTE (blastermaster5000 @ Jun 17 2008, 10:32 PM)
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On this subject im am pro my blaster had the same problems with the external combustioon chamber clogged and the cam was off camber. The vavle was also jewed because the internal combustion chamber was clogged to but but i put deilsel fuel in it for more acceleration and no oil (oil is to heavy) when i have oil in it it runs so gay it sounds like it supposed too i think that weird idk bout you but anyway if u run oil in your quad it blow your camshafts to peices especially if its a 2 stroke[/b]
What? I'm not sure I really understand a damn thing you just stated. I swear, you keep posting crap like this and I'm going to just delete it. Not only is it jibberish, it's also full of false info.

This is a useful thread w/ useful info, don't clutter it with useless posts.
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Old 07-09-2008, 06:42 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Edited by NJC.
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Old 07-13-2009, 09:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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QUOTE (moderater hater @ Jul 9 2008, 03:42 PM)
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"I'm on vacation for 999 days due to my ridiculous comments towards members of this site." - Moderator Hater


Edited by NJC. [/b]


What happened to this thread???
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Old 11-26-2009, 02:46 PM   #6 (permalink)
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dudes, i just stripped my threads... WHAT DO I DO ????, the link seems to be not working


HELP , PLEASE

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Old 09-14-2010, 09:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
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^^ links not working
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Old 04-16-2011, 02:56 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Can someone help out? I stripped one of the bolt holes for the cam holder and the link is not working.
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Old 04-16-2011, 03:40 PM   #9 (permalink)
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http://www.stargis.net/webslinger/Do...eaHelicoil.pdf
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Old 02-21-2012, 03:40 PM   #10 (permalink)
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seems like about 1 out of 10 heads I do has a stripped out hold down hole. One thing I notice that seems to contribue is that guys doing their own work don't realize the 2 left exhaust hold down bolts are longer than the rest, putting a short one over there will most definatly pull the threads.

To answer some help, if you need the service done, I can install the coil for you if you send the head in, would probably be about $50 for the repair.

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Old 02-21-2012, 04:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Also to note about those longer bolts is that they have a shoulder on them. Meaning there is a section of bolt with no threads. I actually had one of my bolts strip (not the head) so I replaced them all. I used a bolt that was the same size but threaded all the way up.
Somewhere in there is an oil passage. The threads closed up that passage and I saw the result the next time I took my cams out. I have some scoring that I think was a direct result of lack of lubrication. Replaced the bolt with the right one and it's been that way since. Either way it's very preventable.
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Old 02-21-2012, 04:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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^^^ that's why it's always important, no matter what you're working on, to keep the caps in order/facing the correct direction. I walways find it easiest to mark the caps with a paint pen in order with an arrow as to what direction the we're facing as well as keeping the bolts in the caps. I haven't torn into my quads head yet but with automotive heads that's the way to go. The more you prepare when you disassemble the less confusion you will have later on.
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Old 02-23-2012, 12:05 AM   #13 (permalink)
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I own a bike shop and in my exp. I found Time Serts to be superior over Heli Coil they are way more expensive but you get what you pay for. The Time Sert has a shoulder on it and will stop before you get it all the way through the cap. ( This is to fix the valve cover bolts not the cam caps) they are 7mmx 1 thread pitch. The cam caps are specd at 7 lb/ft of torque and should not be tightened any more than that, it doesnt feel like enough but it is I race XC on my Z and it has old hot cams with big vavles banging around at 8500rpm and never stripped one out or broken one.
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:10 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the.okie View Post
^^^ that's why it's always important, no matter what you're working on, to keep the caps in order/facing the correct direction. I walways find it easiest to mark the caps with a paint pen in order with an arrow as to what direction the we're facing as well as keeping the bolts in the caps. I haven't torn into my quads head yet but with automotive heads that's the way to go. The more you prepare when you disassemble the less confusion you will have later on.
Caps on the Z are labled for intake and exhaust......and they are very different.
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