won't start after mods? already searched. (lengthy)

[flattracker1]

good job on carb. put plug in turn over couple times then remove. should be wet if did not fire. if not fuel isnt getting to cylinder. did you get better feelers? make sure timing is set? do this before you buy valves. yes it probably could use them but it would suck if you get all that done and you still have this problem...

[bmuh83]

Originally Posted by flattracker1

good job on carb. put plug in turn over couple times then remove. should be wet if did not fire. if not fuel isnt getting to cylinder. did you get better feelers? make sure timing is set? do this before you buy valves. yes it probably could use them but it would suck if you get all that done and you still have this problem...

I haven't tried the wet plug test yet.. I'll check that next. The timing I have set I think how it's supposed to be. With 15 pins on the chan from the 3 Aarow on the intake cam and to the 2 Aarow on the exhaust cam. That's what I understood from the manuel?? It's confusing at times...

I'm going to go ahead and get the valves, shims and maybe springs. Might as well get it all done right so I can stop worrying about this thing.

I'll keep you all updated once the parts come in. Probably later this week.

By the way, I borrowed a friends 4x4 to go on a planned busco trip today. (first timer) had a blast!

[flattracker1]

if you go to spize909 posts, he has one where he tells how to check valve lash very easy to understand. it will also show what timing is set at. it has pics. i think its stickied in maintenance section of forum... good luck. keep us updated

[bmuh83]

Just checked spize's post. I've noticed he is very helpful around this site! I'm sure this won't be the last time I refer to one of his posts for help either lol

My KW black diamond valves, springs and shims should be here tomorrow or Monday. I'll let you all know how it goes.

If anyone needs pics of anything while I'm in there just lemme know.

[bmuh83]

Alright... i got my parts in today. i've gotten everything taken apart just fine till i got to the part where i'm supposed to remove the four head bolts.. all four of them will turn about 1/8th of a turn then tighten back up..

Things i've removed:
-valve cover
-cam journals
-cams
-cam chain tensioner (spring bolt and the housing that bolt screws into)
-the four dowels as well

any suggestions would be appreciated!

[beaverclever02]

Oh god! Lube them with "PB blaster" and wiggle gentle, and get some good anti- seize for assembly, I'm sure there is better instructions than that, but thats fhe first thing that comes to mind

[bmuh83]

Thanks for the quick reply but never mind.. I got them. I was just being a pu@&$y. They were making a really bad metal to metal sound like they were going to seize and break... Moving forward!!!

[bmuh83]

Ok.. I have Everything shimmed to spec. I couldn't het the head off to change the valves but I imagine they're still ok for the moment.

Now, the stupid thing still isn't firing. The header gets warm when i try to start it, which makes me believe SOMETHING is burning but it just won't fire up. Or even come close to turning over on its own due to combustion. I pulled the plug like someone had suggested and it doesn't seem wet... Has some oily residue on the threads but nothing that looks or feels like gas. After the air box and uni filter with the full exhaust do you all think I maybe need a larger pilot/slow jet? The dynojet kit only said to change the needle and main jet. (155 main and needle is I think on the 3rd clip?)

Thanks again

Edit: Also, I have the mixture screw at I think 2 turns out...

[spize909]

sorry, I'm not going back to re-read everything.....but are you sure it's getting gas? Is your vacuum hose hooked up? Have you tried spraying some starting fluid down the intake to see if that'll make it pop/start?

[bmuh83]

I tried the starting fluid in the intake and got a pop a couple times.. I've tried fuel down in the spark plug hole and got a pop also...??

here are a couple pics of the carb hoses.. i have a raptor petcock so i zipped that hose on the left.

I know the fuel line is pinched in the pic.. just moved for the pic with the petcock.

[bmuh83]

After reading some of the setups on the jetting database I'm thinking maybe I need to turn the fuel screw out more? I'm pretty sure I'm at 2 - 2 1/2 turns now. I'll try opening it some more when I get home tonight...

[spize909]

You need to make sure that you are getting gas from the carb into the head.
The fuel screw being in or out a turn or two won't make it act like what you are experiencing.
Is there gas in the carb? When you open the drain screw on the bottom is the bowl full?

[bmuh83]

Originally Posted by spize909

You need to make sure that you are getting gas from the carb into the head.
The fuel screw being in or out a turn or two won't make it act like what you are experiencing.
Is there gas in the carb? When you open the drain screw on the bottom is the bowl full?

Yes. And without the the petcock in the off position the fuel will keep flowing.

[bmuh83]

what is it that could be keeping the gas from getting to the plug?
if the header gets warm when i try to start it does that mean there IS enough gas getting to the plug?
could it be that the spark isn't hot enough? i have a new CR7 in now.

please keep the suggestions coming.. i'm out of ideas. i'm almost to the point where i'm ready to shovel out money by taking it to the dealer...

here is a pic of the re-wiring of the blob after eliminating the RM start button.
gray and yellow wire ARE NOT connected. That's just the angle of the pic.

[bmuh83]

I tried to get the head off to change the valves since i can't think of anything else to do/try and succeeded this time (stupid mistake made me fail the first time).

What do you all think of this? Do you all recommend replacing the piston or anything as well? I assume it's not the reason it won't start, but while i'm in here...