The Solution To Headpipe Removal! (pictures!)

SuzukiLTZ398 · 10-13-2005, 05:42 PM

Well, from what I've seen, many Z owners have lots of trouble removing their stock headpipe. And it is very easy to see why; they packed that thing in there! Fortunately, removing it from the motor and frame can be simplified into a few basic steps, and can save you lots of time and aggrivation. The reason I wanted to remove mine, was to see if I could polish it with a drill-powered wire brush and create a "better-than-new" luster for those who, for one reason or another, want to keep the stock header. I will include directions on how you can achieve this further down the page. But getting back on topic...

First of all, you can see that removing the header isn't going to be a walk in the park. The lower radiator hose is in the way, the radiator itself is too close, and that pesky radiator fan is sticking so far out! Not to fear...following these next few steps will ensure that you have the header out and ready to be replaced (or, in my case polished) in no time!

- First, what you're going to want to do is remove the silencer. This may seem obvious, but make sure you do this first so that you don't wind up having to do it later on.

-After the silencer has been removed, take out the three bolts that hold the head shield to the pipe, as shown below.

What you should have now is something like this...

-Next, remove the three screws that anchor the radiator fan to the radiator itself, disconnect all electrical connections, and remove the fan as shown below...

-Once you have the fan out, now it's time to pinch off the lower radiator hose so that all the fluid doesn't leak all over the place. Take a pair of vise-grips and adjust it to where it just barely pinches off the line, so that you do not rip through the hose. Once that's done, loosen the lower clamp that holds the hose to the water pump, and tug on the hose until it pulls off of the pump. A little coolant will flow out, but not too much. Remember, that's why you pinched off the line! Refer to the picture below...

-Now it's time to remove the bolts holding the rad. to the frame. Popping the stock radiator shroud off of the frame for the time being will help tremendously in having room to work. There are four bolts that must be removed, one being at each corner. Get those all the way out. Good! Now the radiator should move around without any restriction. At this point you're probably saying, "Well, after all this I should be pretty close to being able to get this stupid header out!". And guess what? You're correct!

-Ok, now it's time to remove the two bolts holding the header to the engine. They shouldn't be too difficult to loosen, but it all depends on how rusted they are, and how long they've been on there. Once those bolts are removed, DON'T just let the pipe fall straight down! Instead, fit the "flange" (I think it has a different name, but for now this will suffice) that goes into the exhaust port between the upper radiator hose connector, and the bolt that holds the header nut on. It is a very tight fit. This may take a few moments to figure out and complete, but don't worry, it can be done! Take a look at the picture below; the yellow circle represents the upper radiator hose connector. TIP: Moving the radiator out of the way of the pipe will help greatly in removal; after all, that's why you loosened it in the first place!. Once you have the pipe through the upper radiator hose connector, and the head pipe mouting bolt, you can just wiggle it free from your quad. "Finally!"

Congrats, you now have the headpipe off of your engine, and can install your brand new aftermarket header! OR...you can choose to shine your old stocker up! This will make your it look 100% better, and people may even ask "How did you do that!?" If you want to know how to do this, just keep on reading!

First of all, you will need the following tools to complete this segment:

-Cordless or Corded hand drill. (I prefer a corded drill, mainly because I won't have to worry about a battery dying!)
-"Fine" Wire brush for a hand drill. (Picture below...the one on the left is for a hand drill, and the other for a bench grinder)
-Lots and lots of Brillo pads
-Orange wipes (definitely not required, but will make the shine so much better after you finish polishing)
-Bench clamps (to hold the header to your work bench while you are wire brushing)

Step 1.

Take a Brillo pad to the surface of the header. This will remove a lot of the surface rust and/or baked on mud and grit. Be sure to use lots of pressure; don't worry about scrubbing too hard! You may say to yourself, "Well, it looks so much better already...why should I even bother with the Hand Drill and wire brush?" The answer is simple...you are only removing the baked on dirt and rust. If you want the pipe to shine, you will have to go slightly below that first level.

Step 2.

Take the header and place it on your workbench (or floor, whichever you choose). If you use a workbench, be sure to use Bench Clamps so that the headpipe doesn't move around while you are working.

Step 3.

It's time to start brushing. Make sure you have the wire brush securely in your drill...you don't want it coming loose while your working!

First, power up the drill and apply as little pressure as needed to remove the dirt/rust and grime. See that shiny metal peering through? Yeah, that's what your entire header is going to look like! Continue this process throughout the entire headpipe, remembering to use as little pressure as possible to get down to that "shiny" metal. This will take a good amount of time.

Step 4.

Once you are happy with the way the pipe looks, and there are no more spots of rust or baked on grime, you can now use a new Brillo pad and light pressure to "smooth" things out. A little water sometimes helps in making things look shinier while your gently scrubbing with the brillo pad.

Step 5.

Wipe off the pipe with a paper towel, run an Armor All Orange Clean wipe over the header if you have one, and take a step back and look at what you've just done. Amazing what a little work does, isn't it? If you've done things correctly, your old, rusty header should now look something like this...

Pictures just don't do the polishing job justice!

Re-installing the header is just the opposite of removal!

This article was written to help those who want to remove the stock headpipe with little hassle, and also for those who want to take it a step further and improve the look of the quad a little. If you ask me, looking at a really nice Z400 with a rusted/dirty header just lowers the quad's overall 'wow' factor. I hope this post helps many people out, both with the simple removal of the header, and with making the stock pipe look much better.

-Dan

Oh, and by the way, if you notice anything that I should have included or are unclear on, let me know! I can always make changes. Maybe the post can even be pinned for future reference.

AceLtz · 10-13-2005, 06:01 PM

good write up, thats not how i got my stock header off though

i saw all the stuff that id have to take off and just said, screw that. i got a sawzall, it came out. in two pieces

XtremeKFX400 · 10-14-2005, 11:58 AM

^^^^
i bet alot of beople did that, i know i did lol

nator187 · 10-14-2005, 12:38 PM

This is my solution to the stock head pipe!

Nator187

jeffksf · 10-14-2005, 12:47 PM

Nice write-up, I like the hose pnch-off tip.
Head pipe looks nice.

suzukiboi_23 · 10-15-2005, 11:11 AM

ok when you are lifting it do u let off da gas a little so u can find da balance point?

SuzukiLTZ398 · 10-15-2005, 12:54 PM

Thanks for the compliments guys! The pipe being polished makes it look so much better..no more rust and grime!

I kinda figured you cheaters out there would bust me for not using a Sawzall

. It's all good. This is just for those who don't have a replacement for the stocker and need some ideas. Trust me on this one though...if I had my HMF header this week; no messin around! The stocker would be cut right outta there!

But since it was raining all week, and I needed a little project, I decided to see how this all came together. Seems to have gone pretty nice to me! Don't you think?

little_fat · 10-19-2005, 10:00 PM

You did all that work? I just unhooked the rad hose and manipulated it until it came out. I wish I would have thought about pinching off the hose though, my coolant went everywhere

mrdivito · 11-05-2010, 11:39 AM

Ive been searching around and havent found a answer anywhere. what do i gotta do if the screw broke off on the head for the exhaust. it broke off when i was about 3/4 out

smokedya2 · 11-05-2010, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrdivito

Ive been searching around and havent found a answer anywhere. what do i gotta do if the screw broke off on the head for the exhaust. it broke off when i was about 3/4 out

did it break off flush? if so then your going to have to remove the head and either drill out the stud and re-tap the hole or use and easy-out to get the stud out. if it didnt break off flush then you might be able to get a pair of vise grips on it and spin the stud out. then you just need a new stud and nut. now that i think about it, that stud may be reverse threaded, which meens you cant use an easyout and will need to drill and tap it with a reverse thread tap

yOGi420™ · 11-05-2010, 01:08 PM

Nice write up. Gonna come in handy when I get my new header.

camaro1976 · 11-05-2010, 02:00 PM

looks good so far, any after pics of it mounted?

mana_z400 · 11-05-2010, 02:06 PM

i might do this to my Sparks Header and can.... looks simple and effective!!

zookie400 · 11-05-2010, 02:43 PM

5 years old.

Joshz400_03 · 11-05-2010, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zookie400

5 years old.

This.

10-13-2005, 05:42 PM	#1 (permalink)
SuzukiLTZ398 :::Z-250 Rider::: Join Date: May 2005 Location: Vernon, New Jersey Posts: 501	Well, from what I've seen, many Z owners have lots of trouble removing their stock headpipe. And it is very easy to see why; they packed that thing in there! Fortunately, removing it from the motor and frame can be simplified into a few basic steps, and can save you lots of time and aggrivation. The reason I wanted to remove mine, was to see if I could polish it with a drill-powered wire brush and create a "better-than-new" luster for those who, for one reason or another, want to keep the stock header. I will include directions on how you can achieve this further down the page. But getting back on topic... First of all, you can see that removing the header isn't going to be a walk in the park. The lower radiator hose is in the way, the radiator itself is too close, and that pesky radiator fan is sticking so far out! Not to fear...following these next few steps will ensure that you have the header out and ready to be replaced (or, in my case polished) in no time! - First, what you're going to want to do is remove the silencer. This may seem obvious, but make sure you do this first so that you don't wind up having to do it later on. -After the silencer has been removed, take out the three bolts that hold the head shield to the pipe, as shown below. What you should have now is something like this... -Next, remove the three screws that anchor the radiator fan to the radiator itself, disconnect all electrical connections, and remove the fan as shown below... -Once you have the fan out, now it's time to pinch off the lower radiator hose so that all the fluid doesn't leak all over the place. Take a pair of vise-grips and adjust it to where it just barely pinches off the line, so that you do not rip through the hose. Once that's done, loosen the lower clamp that holds the hose to the water pump, and tug on the hose until it pulls off of the pump. A little coolant will flow out, but not too much. Remember, that's why you pinched off the line! Refer to the picture below... -Now it's time to remove the bolts holding the rad. to the frame. Popping the stock radiator shroud off of the frame for the time being will help tremendously in having room to work. There are four bolts that must be removed, one being at each corner. Get those all the way out. Good! Now the radiator should move around without any restriction. At this point you're probably saying, "Well, after all this I should be pretty close to being able to get this stupid header out!". And guess what? You're correct! -Ok, now it's time to remove the two bolts holding the header to the engine. They shouldn't be too difficult to loosen, but it all depends on how rusted they are, and how long they've been on there. Once those bolts are removed, DON'T just let the pipe fall straight down! Instead, fit the "flange" (I think it has a different name, but for now this will suffice) that goes into the exhaust port between the upper radiator hose connector, and the bolt that holds the header nut on. It is a very tight fit. This may take a few moments to figure out and complete, but don't worry, it can be done! Take a look at the picture below; the yellow circle represents the upper radiator hose connector. TIP: Moving the radiator out of the way of the pipe will help greatly in removal; after all, that's why you loosened it in the first place!. Once you have the pipe through the upper radiator hose connector, and the head pipe mouting bolt, you can just wiggle it free from your quad. "Finally!" Congrats, you now have the headpipe off of your engine, and can install your brand new aftermarket header! OR...you can choose to shine your old stocker up! This will make your it look 100% better, and people may even ask "How did you do that!?" If you want to know how to do this, just keep on reading! First of all, you will need the following tools to complete this segment: -Cordless or Corded hand drill. (I prefer a corded drill, mainly because I won't have to worry about a battery dying!) -"Fine" Wire brush for a hand drill. (Picture below...the one on the left is for a hand drill, and the other for a bench grinder) -Lots and lots of Brillo pads -Orange wipes (definitely not required, but will make the shine so much better after you finish polishing) -Bench clamps (to hold the header to your work bench while you are wire brushing) Step 1. Take a Brillo pad to the surface of the header. This will remove a lot of the surface rust and/or baked on mud and grit. Be sure to use lots of pressure; don't worry about scrubbing too hard! You may say to yourself, "Well, it looks so much better already...why should I even bother with the Hand Drill and wire brush?" The answer is simple...you are only removing the baked on dirt and rust. If you want the pipe to shine, you will have to go slightly below that first level. Step 2. Take the header and place it on your workbench (or floor, whichever you choose). If you use a workbench, be sure to use Bench Clamps so that the headpipe doesn't move around while you are working. Step 3. It's time to start brushing. Make sure you have the wire brush securely in your drill...you don't want it coming loose while your working! First, power up the drill and apply as little pressure as needed to remove the dirt/rust and grime. See that shiny metal peering through? Yeah, that's what your entire header is going to look like! Continue this process throughout the entire headpipe, remembering to use as little pressure as possible to get down to that "shiny" metal. This will take a good amount of time. Step 4. Once you are happy with the way the pipe looks, and there are no more spots of rust or baked on grime, you can now use a new Brillo pad and light pressure to "smooth" things out. A little water sometimes helps in making things look shinier while your gently scrubbing with the brillo pad. Step 5. Wipe off the pipe with a paper towel, run an Armor All Orange Clean wipe over the header if you have one, and take a step back and look at what you've just done. Amazing what a little work does, isn't it? If you've done things correctly, your old, rusty header should now look something like this... Pictures just don't do the polishing job justice! Re-installing the header is just the opposite of removal! This article was written to help those who want to remove the stock headpipe with little hassle, and also for those who want to take it a step further and improve the look of the quad a little. If you ask me, looking at a really nice Z400 with a rusted/dirty header just lowers the quad's overall 'wow' factor. I hope this post helps many people out, both with the simple removal of the header, and with making the stock pipe look much better. -Dan Oh, and by the way, if you notice anything that I should have included or are unclear on, let me know! I can always make changes. Maybe the post can even be pinned for future reference. __________________ DJC/YFZ MX LT-Z400 Spleenless is better.

10-13-2005, 06:01 PM	#2 (permalink)
AceLtz :::LT500 Rider::: Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Ontario, California Posts: 1,007	good write up, thats not how i got my stock header off though i saw all the stuff that id have to take off and just said, screw that. i got a sawzall, it came out. in two pieces __________________ 06 LTR-450 Yoshimura Stuff

10-14-2005, 11:58 AM	#3 (permalink)
XtremeKFX400 :::Z-250 Rider::: Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Carthage Texas Posts: 465	^^^^ i bet alot of beople did that, i know i did lol __________________ Carthage Texas 75633 KFX 400 Rossier, K&N, Alba, Dynojet, pull choke kit, AC, Bare Performance, Woodward Specialties, Lonestar Racing, Maier Mfg., Honda, FullFlight, Pro Grip, Tag Metals, DK Industried powdercoatings, ITP, Trail Tech

10-14-2005, 12:38 PM	#4 (permalink)
nator187 :::KFX 400 Rider::: Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 921	This is my solution to the stock head pipe! Nator187 __________________ A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.

10-14-2005, 12:47 PM	#5 (permalink)
jeffksf :::LT500 Rider::: Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Cleveland OH. Posts: 1,603	Nice write-up, I like the hose pnch-off tip. Head pipe looks nice. __________________ If your from Ohio go here: www.ohiomafiariders.com HMF, Elka, GT Thunder, PRM, Maxxis, Magura, Lonestar, Flexx, Oury, Magnum, Uni, Acerbis, TPI TPI vent, UNI, 160 MJ, Stock needle, 25Pilot

10-15-2005, 11:11 AM	#6 (permalink)
suzukiboi_23 :::Rookie Rider::: Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 6	ok when you are lifting it do u let off da gas a little so u can find da balance point?

10-15-2005, 12:54 PM	#7 (permalink)
SuzukiLTZ398 :::Z-250 Rider::: Join Date: May 2005 Location: Vernon, New Jersey Posts: 501	Thanks for the compliments guys! The pipe being polished makes it look so much better..no more rust and grime! I kinda figured you cheaters out there would bust me for not using a Sawzall . It's all good. This is just for those who don't have a replacement for the stocker and need some ideas. Trust me on this one though...if I had my HMF header this week; no messin around! The stocker would be cut right outta there! But since it was raining all week, and I needed a little project, I decided to see how this all came together. Seems to have gone pretty nice to me! Don't you think? __________________ DJC/YFZ MX LT-Z400 Spleenless is better.

10-19-2005, 10:00 PM	#8 (permalink)
little_fat :::LT500 Rider::: Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Central Utah Posts: 1,258	You did all that work? I just unhooked the rad hose and manipulated it until it came out. I wish I would have thought about pinching off the hose though, my coolant went everywhere __________________ 03 Z400 DMC Alien Exhaust Dyno Jets Kenda Gecko paddles TrailTech speedometer/computer UNI Pro Armor Nerfs Ricochet swingarm skid Pro Grips Tether Kill Switch Razr rears 22-11-9 13-t front sprocket Stage II Intake and Exhaust Hotcams

11-05-2010, 11:39 AM	#9 (permalink)
mrdivito :::Mini LT50 Rider::: Join Date: Sep 2009 Posts: 123	Ive been searching around and havent found a answer anywhere. what do i gotta do if the screw broke off on the head for the exhaust. it broke off when i was about 3/4 out

11-05-2010, 01:08 PM	#11 (permalink)
yOGi420™ :::Official Spammer::: Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Gateway To The Dunes, Cen Cal Posts: 3,335	Nice write up. Gonna come in handy when I get my new header. __________________ Click Here To See My Rides Need to install: RatStack Flex Jet FCR-39 from 450 Outlaw Honda Thumb Throttle/Cable 400ex Air Boot DID 520 ERT2 Chain Raptor 660 Petcock IMS 4g Fuel Tank DRZe Kit Ferrea Valves Dynatech NP CDI Web Cams 539/539+3 Quick Change Clutch Cover Factory Machined Athena 434 BBK CP 94mm 12.5:1 Piston 07 LT Z400 (Mine) 04 Kawasaki KFX 400 (My Back Up) 07 Can Am DS 250 (Oldest Son's) 07 Yamaha Raptor 50 (Youngest son) 07 Yamaha TT R50 (A Fun Little Toy)

11-05-2010, 02:00 PM	#12 (permalink)
camaro1976 :::Get a life! You're over 5000 posts::: Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: NE Wisconsin/ Winona, MN Posts: 9,261	looks good so far, any after pics of it mounted? __________________ BUICK BROTHER

11-05-2010, 02:06 PM	#13 (permalink)
mana_z400 :::LT500 Rider::: Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Dubai - United Arab Emirates Posts: 1,652	i might do this to my Sparks Header and can.... looks simple and effective!!

11-05-2010, 02:43 PM	#14 (permalink)
zookie400 :::Post Whore::: Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Connecticut Posts: 2,683	5 years old.

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