Prodesign Tether

[z26beretta]

I just got done picking my brain for an hour trying to put this down in words. Here you go. Hopefully I make since, if anyone has the prodesign (N.O.) this is the cheap fix to making it work safely on your Z. Any questions or clarification hit me up.

Supplies needed:
* 1 tether switch (normally opened)
* 1 relay (normally closed when not energized)
* Heat shrinks tubing for closing up connections
* Soldering gun
* Side cutters

1st

Find the orange wire and the orange w/ white tracer wire, located under the steering stem where the handle bars mount. This is where you’re going to cut the wires at.
(Double check to make sure these are the wires going to the engine kill switch, mounted on the left side of the handle bar)



2nd Cut the orange w/ white tracer wire;
connect the one end of the normally closed relay conection 30 on the relay to one side of the orange w/ white tracer wire. (these should be either solder or butt spliced and heat shrinked to keep water out)




The other side of the orange w/ white tracer wire gets hooked to the other wire on your normally closed relay which is 87a on the relay (your just adding this as a loop to break the ignition).just like a light switch!! (these should be either solder or butt spliced and heat shrinked to keep water out)



3rd Now for the orange wire. Slice back the wire insulation so you can hook up the (+) hot wire powering the relay coil wire 85 on the relay you’re installing.(these should be either solder or butt spliced and heat shrinked to keep water out)





4th Take one side of the black wire on the tether and hook it to the (-) side of the relay coil wire 86 that you’re installing.(these should be either solder or butt spliced and heat shrinked to keep water out)



Now take the other black wire from the tether and hook inline with the black wires going to the clutch lever lock out. or any ground on the frame!! as long as its grounded (these should be either solder or butt spliced and heat shrinked to keep water out)




*FOR QUADS THAT ALREADY REMOVED THE STOCK CLUTCH PERCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(On my quad I already disabled the clutch start interface, that’s where I hooked my black wire from the tether to bypass clutch lockout) Cut and twist both black wires together, including the black tether wire you just installed. You should have 3 black wires hooked together.

*FOR QUADS WITH STOCK CLUCH PERCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Using an ohm meter you’re going to have to find the (-) side that has continuity. Go from your (-) side of the battery up to the clutch perch until you find the black wire that has continuity. That is the side you hook your tether wire to.

Explanation of how this works in case I lost you Basically the relay you added kills the loop of the ignition. The tether grounds the relay pulling the relay in which kills the ignition. You’re using the (-) ground to energize the relay.

circuit city, or any car audio electronics place they use these things all the time for remote starters. auto zone


this is a schematic of the relay.
coil wires are 85+ 86- switch is 87a 30 (87 is not used)

numbers are on the bottom of relay

you can use any style relay it doesnt have to be rated for 20 amps a l 5amp one will work

[eski_riderKFX400]

Everyone, please don't reply to this topic. Beretta is in the process of making a tech article out of this... I'm leaving it open for the time being until he gets a chance to add pictures to it.
Eski

Sorry about replying when it says not to...

Whats wrong with just grounding out the pickup coil with it to kill it?
Thats what I did, and it works fine, and is alot less work.

I was just curious in case Im missing something

[shikwann]

QUOTE (CFM-Z440 @ Jul 8 2006, 02:28 AM)

Sorry about replying when it says not to...

Whats wrong with just grounding out the pickup coil with it to kill it?
Thats what I did, and it works fine, and is alot less work.

I was just curious in case Im missing something[/b]

I did the same thing too! but now it doesn't work for some reason, it kept blowing my fuses

[blackz03]

sorry to reply on this but this was a big issue for me too,so i got on the phone and spoke derectly to a kawi enginner. I was told by the desighner its ok to ground out the coil. i have been running mine like that for 1year and no trouble. dont quote me on the color but i think its blue/green of the stator.

[CFM-Z440]

QUOTE (mike1974 @ Jan 8 2007, 10:11 PM)

sorry to reply on this but this was a big issue for me too,so i got on the phone and spoke derectly to a kawi enginner. I was told by the desighner its ok to ground out the coil. i have been running mine like that for 1year and no trouble. dont quote me on the color but i think its blue/green of the stator.[/b]

That is how I did mine, but my Pro Design teather got dirty and doesnt work anymore. I have cleaned it out once already. Time to give in and buy a good one

[gregfromnj]

i dont have my black blob......any suggestions?

[bludevilz91]

QUOTE (GregfromNJ @ Mar 13 2007, 08:51 PM)

i dont have my black blob......any suggestions?[/b]

Greg, follow Tom's write-up on Bare Performance. It use's a normally closed kill tether, but I dont know if you already bought a normally open tether.

http://bareperformance.com/news/?page_id=62

[Quad82]

Normaly open Pro Design style grounds the coil 12 volts out I have this on both my quads. But if you are running a Dayna CDI it voids their warrenty. Not that I have ever seen an electrical warrenty reimburstment.

If you run a normaly closed Pringel style it works just like your on/off black blob switch and doesn't ground out your CDI.


You can buy a normaly open teather for $14. Why spend the time money and have 4 more connections to worry about? Good workout on the wiring though.