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#1 (permalink) |
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:::Official Spammer:::
![]() Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 3,777
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Well my fcr carb off of a yfz450 was no way in heck going to mount up to my drz boot, it was hitting the fat stock headstay.
My options were to make a longer boot or a smaller headstay. I opted for the smaller headstay because it would make it more roomy to get the carb on and off for jetting. I may still put Cataway's extended carb to head boot on. You need a welder, grinder, metal cutting saw/chop saw, some 3/4" round stock pipe tubing, and a drill with 3/8 bit, and some fabrication skillz I measured up the stock headstay. ![]() Then I cut the ends off with a sawzaw, I cut as close as I could. ![]() heres what it should look like cut ![]() Grind the excess weld from the tube off ![]() You should have left what looks like this: ![]() Cut a piece of 3/4 OD pipe a tad longer than 6 3/8" long ![]() Heres what you should have now: ![]() Sight up the rod on the end tab so it is about 3/16 or so from the edge so there is room for the weld bead ![]() ![]() Weld it on ![]() Go bolt it up and sight up the other one and make sure it all lines up, you may have to bend the rod a little bit before you weld the second one on..... ![]() You should have plenty of clearance ![]() Weld the second tab on ![]() ![]() I measured up for the tabs, start out at around 2 1/2" long ![]() I made tabs out of round stock and smashed the ends....I think these are one of the strongest ways of doing it, but whatever you think will work will work ![]() It was a PITA to figure out how to get the tabs on at the right angle......I traced around them with marker while the headstay was bolted in the frame. Once I got the right tab on, I drilled the hole. Cover the intake and carb or whatever so shavings don't get anywhere they shouldn't. Notice my dumazz didn't cover the cam chain tensioner hole ![]() ![]() Then I drilled the other hole in the vise: ![]() Bolted up: ![]() Amount of cleance you will have: ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() semi-finished product VS old fatty tube ![]() ![]() It looks a little rough, but I ground down some stuff today, and it will be getting powdercoated very soon, I'll post some purdy pictures. I am very happy with it and it saved me about $50 bucks. There is plenty of room for the carb, about 3/8-1/2in gap. UPDATED WITH FINISHED PICTURE
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#2 (permalink) |
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:::Post Whore:::
![]() Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Republic of Texas
Posts: 2,179
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Nice job.
__________________
2007 KTM 250 SX 2002 CR250R Feb 2009 QOTM (What my Z used to be) http://suzuki.theatvchannel.com/suzuki-qot...6939fa522478bfe "Come to me, son of Jor-El! Kneel before Zod!" |
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#5 (permalink) |
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:::LT250 Rider:::
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would it not have been easier to just get a little longer boot??
__________________
2004 ltz 434 434 athena -old style stage 2 hot cams-drz valve springs-kibble white valves drz 3/4 chain-drz base gasket-fmf high flow header-scorpion slip on -dyna non programable-asv clutch perch w/ hot start as reverse- renthal far bars mcgrath bend trail teck bar clamp dg pro nerfs-ac front bumper-extreme eng. grab bar-itp hole shots rear 18x8 on itp t-9 pro baja rims-itp hole shots front 19x6 t-9 pro polished rims-oury grips-alum air box-k&n w/ outer wares- ex 400 air box to carb boot drz carb to head boot <span style="color:#000000"> -fcr 40mm w/ cable and twist throttle from a 06 crf 250- it's all for sale ktm here i come |
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#9 (permalink) |
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:::Get a life! You're over 5000 posts:::
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stock LTZ boot. i'm gonna pick up some hose clamps and i think it will still hold. the boot is hard enough to get off the carb so i can't imagine it coming loose when its clamped. i'll double check this tomorrow and i'll probly make a few headstays anyways just to get some more room. maybe a drz boot down the road.
__________________
BUICK BROTHER
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