Lower Ball Joint Mod

Mudslinger11 · 06-07-2010, 10:49 AM

This thread is from all the combine info from this site put into one post. Im not trying to take credit for anyones ideas, just putting them in a how to with pic's to help the next guy! maybe it should get pinned for the guy a year from now?

WHAT YOU NEED:
*2003-2004 uses ricky stator honda joints [RS3002]
*2005 and up uses ricky stator yamaha joints [RS3003]
(Other stuff may work including tie rod ends from your whatever in the back yard but the ones above work great and are a ball joint maid for an atv at 20 bucks each)
*M16X1.5 mm tap for any year(15 bucks)
* 2-M16X1.5 jam nuts or cut down the ones they come with.
*9/16 drill bit and some smaller sizes to work up to the 9/16 final size
*touch up paint
*lock tite
* about 2-3 hours of time per side

LETS GET STARTED

Remove your lower joint with a fork, puller, or hit it with a hammer, no matter, its junk anyway! Then remove the arm.I don't recommend trying to do it on the quad!!

Tape the dust caps on so they don't fall off.

find center of the ball joint to the back of the arm.

Cut the old joint off at 1/8 inch past where the taper stops. If you are unsure if you can cut it right, cut it right were the taper starts and finish with a grinder. At this spot you will meet up with the factory hole from behind.

Secure the arm to the bench so it can't move around.

Now drill with a SHARP 1/2 inch bit from the front, then the SHARP 9/16. Go slow, check as you go, and use cutting oil. If you push to hard you will wreck your bit, this is hard steel!

Once you have a nice 9/16 hole get your tap and cutting oil or tap lube and very slowly tap the hole. Turn the tap 1/4 turn at a time and back off to clean the thread. YOU MUST TAKE YOUR TIME!

Now thread the new joint in and make sure the nut fits flush. If it doesn't, hit if with the grinder and run the tap to re-clean the thread.

Paint so it doesn't rust.

Now make sure you have the same space end to end as when you started and snug the nut. You will want to get a jam nut of cut yours down to get exactly back to factory spec. The ones that come with it are too wide.

Install with some lock-tite, make sure everything is tight and take a big breath, Your done!!!

dtfm33 · 06-07-2010, 12:53 PM

Nice write up! Pinned

Mudslinger11 · 06-07-2010, 01:04 PM

Thanks, I hope this helps someone.

ET48 · 10-21-2010, 11:42 PM

I implied from the OP that the lower ball joints are junk, but do they break down or bust while jumping? What is the exact reason they are junk?

Newb question, I know....

The only other reason I could think of for replacing the joints was for camber adjustment.

camaro1976 · 10-22-2010, 02:10 PM

when they wear out you can't replace them and are supposed to buy whole new lower a-arms

joeblow · 10-23-2010, 12:24 AM

Or.... you can now put the arms in the oven to cure the new powder coat you picked out.

jasmf24 · 04-21-2011, 11:38 AM

Has anyone done this with a tie-rod from the local auto parts store? If so, what vehicle did you use.

Mudslinger11 · 04-21-2011, 10:33 PM

I think I've seen them used, i might have remembered reading ti rods are built different, not sure? I think the Ricky stator ones were like $20 each, why would you not just get the right thing?

jasmf24 · 04-27-2011, 03:09 PM

Just asking if anyone tried it. If there is one from a car that would work just as good, I would just run to the auto parts store to get it and have it that day. If not, I'll get the Rick's

kfxguy · 04-27-2011, 07:02 PM

I'd like to know too. I really don't feel like ordering them. I'd rather just pick them up and I get a discount too so that's a plus. Maybe I'll do a little research on this.

camaro1976 · 04-27-2011, 07:31 PM

Pm Josh, he'll know. He had to order one for his LSR arms and they for sure had a MOOG PN from any auto parts store.

I want to say it's a tie rod end for a geo, but like I said he'll know for sure.

jasmf24 · 04-28-2011, 08:38 AM

KFXGUY, If you find anything please let me know. There has to be something at the local auto parts store.

Joshz400_03 · 04-28-2011, 12:10 PM

Moog ES3045RL Tie rod end for a 89-98 Geo Tracker..Direct replacement for Lonestar A-Arms

jasmf24 · 04-28-2011, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joshz400_03

Moog ES3045RL Tie rod end for a 89-98 Geo Tracker..Direct replacement for Lonestar A-Arms

You the man!

Thanks.

Joshz400_03 · 04-28-2011, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasmf24

You the man!

Thanks.

I know, lol. I checked advance (i work there) and we had the moog for $31 had to be ordered though.

06-07-2010, 10:49 AM	#1 (permalink)
Mudslinger11 :::LT500 Rider::: Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: new york Posts: 1,175	This thread is from all the combine info from this site put into one post. Im not trying to take credit for anyones ideas, just putting them in a how to with pic's to help the next guy! maybe it should get pinned for the guy a year from now? WHAT YOU NEED: 2003-2004 uses ricky stator honda joints [RS3002] 2005 and up uses ricky stator yamaha joints [RS3003] (Other stuff may work including tie rod ends from your whatever in the back yard but the ones above work great and are a ball joint maid for an atv at 20 bucks each) M16X1.5 mm tap for any year(15 bucks) 2-M16X1.5 jam nuts or cut down the ones they come with. 9/16 drill bit and some smaller sizes to work up to the 9/16 final size touch up paint lock tite about 2-3 hours of time per side LETS GET STARTED Remove your lower joint with a fork, puller, or hit it with a hammer, no matter, its junk anyway! Then remove the arm.I don't recommend trying to do it on the quad!! Tape the dust caps on so they don't fall off. find center of the ball joint to the back of the arm. Cut the old joint off at 1/8 inch past where the taper stops. If you are unsure if you can cut it right, cut it right were the taper starts and finish with a grinder. At this spot you will meet up with the factory hole from behind. Secure the arm to the bench so it can't move around. Now drill with a SHARP 1/2 inch bit from the front, then the SHARP 9/16. Go slow, check as you go, and use cutting oil. If you push to hard you will wreck your bit, this is hard steel! Once you have a nice 9/16 hole get your tap and cutting oil or tap lube and very slowly tap the hole. Turn the tap 1/4 turn at a time and back off to clean the thread. YOU MUST TAKE YOUR TIME! Now thread the new joint in and make sure the nut fits flush. If it doesn't, hit if with the grinder and run the tap to re-clean the thread. Paint so it doesn't rust. Now make sure you have the same space end to end as when you started and snug the nut. You will want to get a jam nut of cut yours down to get exactly back to factory spec. The ones that come with it are too wide. Install with some lock-tite, make sure everything is tight and take a big breath, Your done!!! __________________ 03'LTZ462,Port/Polish by TTM, KW valves, Drz springs,TT flywheel, HO Stator, PD impeller, NSHC, DMC exaust, FCR39, flex skrew, FCI intake, np dyna, Elka piggyback fronts, pc frame trans blue, pro armor nerfs, dg skids,bumper, frame guards, prm grab bar, maier plastic, one graphics, tusk xc rims, holeshot hd, braided steel brake lines, x-bars, power madd guards, drd's , moose duel gasser, asv levers, fly start button, PD kill with relay, tusk gas cap, raptor petcock, raptor battery, TT vapor

06-07-2010, 12:53 PM	#2 (permalink)
dtfm33 Administrator Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Phoenix, AZ Posts: 2,655	Nice write up! Pinned __________________ A few extras!

06-07-2010, 01:04 PM	#3 (permalink)
Mudslinger11 :::LT500 Rider::: Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: new york Posts: 1,175	Thanks, I hope this helps someone. __________________ 03'LTZ462,Port/Polish by TTM, KW valves, Drz springs,TT flywheel, HO Stator, PD impeller, NSHC, DMC exaust, FCR39, flex skrew, FCI intake, np dyna, Elka piggyback fronts, pc frame trans blue, pro armor nerfs, dg skids,bumper, frame guards, prm grab bar, maier plastic, one graphics, tusk xc rims, holeshot hd, braided steel brake lines, x-bars, power madd guards, drd's , moose duel gasser, asv levers, fly start button, PD kill with relay, tusk gas cap, raptor petcock, raptor battery, TT vapor

10-21-2010, 11:42 PM	#4 (permalink)
ET48 :::Rookie Rider::: Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Ohio (1,136 ft above sea level) Posts: 16	I implied from the OP that the lower ball joints are junk, but do they break down or bust while jumping? What is the exact reason they are junk? Newb question, I know.... The only other reason I could think of for replacing the joints was for camber adjustment. __________________ ET48 03 LTZ400 Kiezer Aluminum Wheels (Front and Rear) Custom Handlebars Stock Mikuni 144DJ main 3.5 turns out DJ needle 3rd clip Removed spark arrestor Air box lid/snorkel removed Last edited by ET48; 10-22-2010 at 12:13 AM.

10-22-2010, 02:10 PM	#5 (permalink)
camaro1976 :::Get a life! You're over 5000 posts::: Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: NE Wisconsin/ Winona, MN Posts: 9,261	when they wear out you can't replace them and are supposed to buy whole new lower a-arms __________________ BUICK BROTHER

10-23-2010, 12:24 AM	#6 (permalink)
joeblow :::Mini LT80 Rider::: Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Oregon dunes Posts: 188	Or.... you can now put the arms in the oven to cure the new powder coat you picked out. __________________ A word to the wise ain't necessary - it's the stupid ones that need the advice

04-21-2011, 11:38 AM	#7 (permalink)
jasmf24 :::KFX 400 Rider::: Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 921	Has anyone done this with a tie-rod from the local auto parts store? If so, what vehicle did you use. __________________ 2004 KFX400, 12.2:1 Wiseco, HMF full exhaust, FCR-39 (170 M/ 42P/ 40L/ NCVQ, DRZ-E boot w/ compact head-stay), OSHC's, K-W valves w/ drz springs, Dyna Fs NP, Raptor Petcock, Wiseco cam chain, 400ex boot, Oversized clamp on UNI/K&N no lid, DRZ-E Base, DRZ Flywheel, LTR450 Front Shocks, blob-less ProTaper Contour bars (ATV High) w/ hot-start reverse, odi grips, Tusk nerfs, Full skids, 14/40, (R) Holeshot ITP HD (F) Rzr2, Port-N-Polish by me.

04-21-2011, 10:33 PM	#8 (permalink)
Mudslinger11 :::LT500 Rider::: Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: new york Posts: 1,175	I think I've seen them used, i might have remembered reading ti rods are built different, not sure? I think the Ricky stator ones were like $20 each, why would you not just get the right thing? __________________ 03'LTZ462,Port/Polish by TTM, KW valves, Drz springs,TT flywheel, HO Stator, PD impeller, NSHC, DMC exaust, FCR39, flex skrew, FCI intake, np dyna, Elka piggyback fronts, pc frame trans blue, pro armor nerfs, dg skids,bumper, frame guards, prm grab bar, maier plastic, one graphics, tusk xc rims, holeshot hd, braided steel brake lines, x-bars, power madd guards, drd's , moose duel gasser, asv levers, fly start button, PD kill with relay, tusk gas cap, raptor petcock, raptor battery, TT vapor

04-27-2011, 03:09 PM	#9 (permalink)
jasmf24 :::KFX 400 Rider::: Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 921	Just asking if anyone tried it. If there is one from a car that would work just as good, I would just run to the auto parts store to get it and have it that day. If not, I'll get the Rick's __________________ 2004 KFX400, 12.2:1 Wiseco, HMF full exhaust, FCR-39 (170 M/ 42P/ 40L/ NCVQ, DRZ-E boot w/ compact head-stay), OSHC's, K-W valves w/ drz springs, Dyna Fs NP, Raptor Petcock, Wiseco cam chain, 400ex boot, Oversized clamp on UNI/K&N no lid, DRZ-E Base, DRZ Flywheel, LTR450 Front Shocks, blob-less ProTaper Contour bars (ATV High) w/ hot-start reverse, odi grips, Tusk nerfs, Full skids, 14/40, (R) Holeshot ITP HD (F) Rzr2, Port-N-Polish by me.

04-27-2011, 07:02 PM	#10 (permalink)
kfxguy :::Get a life! You're over 5000 posts::: Join Date: May 2007 Location: Louisiana baton rouge Posts: 5,946	I'd like to know too. I really don't feel like ordering them. I'd rather just pick them up and I get a discount too so that's a plus. Maybe I'll do a little research on this. __________________ OCTOBER 2009 QOTM KFX470 (The Black beast) -web cams custom grinds, titanium valves,cv4 springs -dyna programmable -4" extended swinger, rad aluminum axle -ported head (by me)(please do not pm me about head porting. Thx) -cp 94mm stroker piston, hot rods +5mm stroker -44mm straight bored fcr carb, Fci intake -powder coated everything

04-27-2011, 07:31 PM	#11 (permalink)
camaro1976 :::Get a life! You're over 5000 posts::: Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: NE Wisconsin/ Winona, MN Posts: 9,261	Pm Josh, he'll know. He had to order one for his LSR arms and they for sure had a MOOG PN from any auto parts store. I want to say it's a tie rod end for a geo, but like I said he'll know for sure. __________________ BUICK BROTHER

04-28-2011, 08:38 AM	#12 (permalink)
jasmf24 :::KFX 400 Rider::: Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Pittsburgh Posts: 921	KFXGUY, If you find anything please let me know. There has to be something at the local auto parts store. __________________ 2004 KFX400, 12.2:1 Wiseco, HMF full exhaust, FCR-39 (170 M/ 42P/ 40L/ NCVQ, DRZ-E boot w/ compact head-stay), OSHC's, K-W valves w/ drz springs, Dyna Fs NP, Raptor Petcock, Wiseco cam chain, 400ex boot, Oversized clamp on UNI/K&N no lid, DRZ-E Base, DRZ Flywheel, LTR450 Front Shocks, blob-less ProTaper Contour bars (ATV High) w/ hot-start reverse, odi grips, Tusk nerfs, Full skids, 14/40, (R) Holeshot ITP HD (F) Rzr2, Port-N-Polish by me.

04-28-2011, 12:10 PM	#13 (permalink)
Joshz400_03 Super Moderator Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Green Bay, Wi Posts: 8,300	Moog ES3045RL Tie rod end for a 89-98 Geo Tracker..Direct replacement for Lonestar A-Arms __________________ KB Motorsports My Mod List 07' LT-R 450 03' Z434 10' SSR DX-3 110 Buick Brother Last edited by Joshz400_03; 04-28-2011 at 12:15 PM.

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