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#16 (permalink) | |
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:::Ozark 250 rider:::
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Medina, Ohio
Posts: 349
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Quote:
It glosses over in a minute or two and time is not dead set you can cook over or under couple minutes. I bake all mine at 400 degrees for 15 - 20 min. Most times say so many minutes after the piece is up to temp. I preheat EVERYTHING now. That really helps.
__________________
2007 Z with a couple mods - see below vvvvvv snap-im-finally-starting-my-own-build-thread 2004 Z with a couple mods |
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#17 (permalink) | |
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:::Post Whore:::
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 2,683
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Quote:
-bake the part for 15 minutes at 450 prior to putting powder on it. this will get rid of any water, and will show smoke and brown spots where there may be missed oil or wax -spray the part HOT. its much easier, and really helps on a frame where faraday effect is your worst enemy. -if faraday is preventing you from covering an area, stop charging the part and spray just like regular paint. if course, the part needs to be HOT for this to work otherwise the powder will hit the part and fall to the floor. -prep work is very important, just like painting -phosphatizer will really help adhesion and prevent rusting from underneath -aluminum outgasses, GET OUTGAS FORGIVING AGENTor your truck rims will be full of fisheyes. -i get better coverage and an overall smoother application using the lowest pressure possible. it is much slower. the high pressure will get the job done quick but you waste a lot of powder and end up with random thick spots on the part, that could end up being runs. -for multi stage coatings, only the final stage should be a high gloss. dont try to lay blue candy over mirror black...its just going to peel like a tourist on a florida beach. -keep in mind the curing temp and times are based on part temp, not oven temp. a little guess work is involved here if you dont have a fancy PMT thermometer but as a basic rule i add 5 minutes to cook time (on a preheated part and oven) and it has worked well for me so far. |
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