Powdercoating knowledge.....do you have any?

[kfxguy]

Ok, I figured I'd start a thread for the people who know how to pc and for those wanting to or just starting out...like me. So for you guys that know how to, would you mind lending us some tips/tricks and do's and don'ts. Like:

How do you know how thick is too thick. Or too thin?

Transferring to the oven and a little powder comes off what do you do

Do you get a better result on a part if it is completely smooth. Or does the pc fill in fine scratches?

How far away should you stand when spraying?

Can you powder it outside on something to hang it on over the grass and then transport it to your oven? How easy does the powder come off when fresh out the gun? (uncured)

Do you plug off all holes? Do you leave the plugs in while baking? Can you mask things off and remove tape before putting in oven without disturbing the powder?
Hopefully this will answer some questions I have and some others have.

[decentZ89]

i literally just ordered my east wood kit tonight..so excited..
ill keep you posted with some projects

[CFM-Z440]

The hole plugging thing I mentioned the other day may be done better by making sure that all water is drained and dried from within the frame tubes before spraying the powder at it.

My issue was it was done on a powdercoat line at a factory. They wash it, then dry it (their drying method didn't get the water out of the tubes) then powder it, then bake it.

The result was a little roughness and a bare spot on my rear grab bar, that's about it I think.

This is all I know

[chrisroberts916]

How do you know how thick is too thick. Or too thin?
That's a tricky one, I know it runs when you get it to thick. I use a small spray booth and I pull the piece out to check coverage and flip it over to make sure the bottom side gets it to same with turning it so the inside gets it. It is important to PREHEAT your part when you spray the powder on a heated part the first layer melts and acts like a tack coat it also helps to get in the tight areas. You will get the feel for it, and you can always heat it back up and spray a second coat.

Transferring to the oven and a little powder comes off what do you do?
It shouldn't come off unless you bump something. I've had luck fixing ooop's by start the baking process and after it glosses over dust or lightly brushing some powder on it while its hot and sticky.

Do you get a better result on a part if it is completely smooth. Or does the pc fill in fine scratches?
The PC will self level and flows over small scratches. Black Beauty sand is course and it will come out smooth. After sandblasting be sure to blow piece off good before you preheat put on your rubber gloves and wash piece with soap and water. Blow off again and heat to bake temp. If you do a good job of blowing the preheat will dry the rest. I use glass bead, it's a lot cleaner and works great but expensive.

How far away should you stand when spraying?
Hold the gun 6" - 8" inches away. Get to close it will jump a nice voltage across to the piece.

Can you powder it outside on something to hang it on over the grass and then transport it to your oven? How easy does the powder come off when fresh out the gun? (uncured)
You could but it's a waste of powder. Your limited to the size of your oven. My oven is about 20"dx20"wx16"t so I made a spray booth that is 2'x2'x2'. That way you can reclaim your powder. For every gram you get on the piece 4 hits the ground. The powder sticks pretty good. I spray several pieces and hang them on a rack till I get enough to fill the oven sprayed.


Do you plug off all holes? Do you leave the plugs in while baking? Can you mask things off and remove tape before putting in oven without disturbing the powder?
The neatest trick I found on a PC forum was to use tin foil to fill your holes. You want to protect your threads. I bought heat tape and plugs from the PC supplier on ebay. The plugs are well worth it the tape so so. I use blue painters tape and bake it with it still on. It can leave a residue that I just clean off with thinner after the piece cools.
You can see the tin foil in this piece filling the drain hole.

Hopefully this will answer some questions


I was thinking we needed to start this thread, I'm glad you did. I will help anyone out anyway I can. Next thing your going to want is a buffer and wire wheel.

[kfxguy]

I have two bench grinders. Actually a buffer with a coarse wheel and a medium grit wheel. Then I have a bench grinder with a wire wheel and then a drill press with another wheel for fine compound. Lol. The parts you pictured....you polished then cleared? I'm so glad you answered all my questions. So you preheat each part to about 380-400 degrees before spraying them? Burn yourself a lot? Lol.

[bparks23]

Don't hold me to this, but I think in some of my readings I saw them plug the holes with various sized corks like the tapered kind.

[chrisroberts916]

Originally Posted by kfxguy

I have two bench grinders. Actually a buffer with a coarse wheel and a medium grit wheel. Then I have a bench grinder with a wire wheel and then a drill press with another wheel for fine compound. Lol. The parts you pictured....you polished then cleared? I'm so glad you answered all my questions. So you preheat each part to about 380-400 degrees before spraying them? Burn yourself a lot? Lol.

When I first started I got burned pretty good, but you learn fast with pain as a motivator.

The picture above is my small buffer with a very fine wire wheel. Here a picture of my "killer" 220 volt buffer I made. I have several wheels for it, up to 14". For some reason my friends just want to borrow the small one and never takes advantage of the "killer".

[chrisroberts916]

Originally Posted by bparks23

Don't hold me to this, but I think in some of my readings I saw them plug the holes with various sized corks like the tapered kind.

They work great Plugs but they can tend to fall out or you don't have enough of the size you need. Once I found out about the tin foil I really haven't use the plugs.

Another thing your going to want is a roll of ty-wire not the cheap thin stuff. Make yourself a bunch of s hooks. different sizes, long ones and short ones. They get powder coated to so you need new ones after 1 or 2 uses because the loose their conductivity.

Good source on Ebay for powder and the best price I've found on team green afterhoursmech

[kfxguy]

This is awesome tips and knowledge shared. Thanks!

[chrisroberts916]

Originally Posted by kfxguy

This is awesome tips and knowledge shared. Thanks!

I owe you for the great porting thread! The day you where writing it while you where doing it I was doing it with you. Had my lap top and dremmel waiting for the next picture to show up. Anything you need let me know.

[bobmilspaw]

great info! a few more:

always were gloves when handling

i always prebake my parts just before coating. a warm part helps with the electrical charge. it also confirms your piece is completely clean. if any grease, oil or water are still on the part, it will drain out

if you jump charge, dont bake the part, it will come out feeling/looking like 60 grit sandpaper and it is not easy to strip back down. i still have been able to complete strip a couple parts

i like the aluminum foil idea.

the plugs are nice, but dont come in larger sizes +1" diameter. what are people doing for the bigger openings- ie axle carrier opening??

[chrisroberts916]

always were gloves when handling.
Very true, I use the thin white cotton ones. I like the brown cheap work gloves for buffing thou.

i always prebake my parts just before coating. a warm part helps with the electrical charge. it also confirms your piece is completely clean. if any grease, oil or water are still on the part, it will drain out.
Preheatting is a MUST. Every time I tried to cheat it bit me in the a$$.

if you jump charge, dont bake the part, it will come out feeling/looking like 60 grit sandpaper and it is not easy to strip back down. i still have been able to complete strip a couple parts.
That's why I had ruff parts? I have had great sussess striping parts with Methyl Ethyl Ketone or MEK. Nasty a$$ stuff about $18 - $20 a gallon and you can get it at Home Depot or hardware stores. For small parts fill a coffee up and let it soak bigger parts bigger cake pan. Let it soak for awhile, overnight and the coating peals right off. You tube "stripping powder coat" I reuse it also, strain with paint strainer and store in coffee can.

i like the aluminum foil idea.

Works great for everything. I fill every thing before I bead blast. Then I power wash, hand scrub, and blow dry and the tin foil is still there. A trick to removing it is to use a small flat head screwdriver and back it out like screw.

the plugs are nice, but dont come in larger sizes +1" diameter. what are people doing for the bigger openings- ie axle carrier opening.

Most bigger holes I have ran into has a machined face. I use GOOD blue painters tape, not the super low tack, they have different grades at home depot. Yes it's not cheap, but it is cheaper than the heat tape you can buy. Take your time and you can get it to stick nice on an 1/8 lip. ie back of engine side covers.

It's has been a very good investment. I have alot of toys and alot of toy projects. Everything that gets removed will be powder coated when it get put back on. The guns are cheap enough, If my cheap HF gun breaks I'll buy another for under $100 in a heartbeat.
Just for the extra cups?

[kfxguy]

Originally Posted by chrisroberts916

I owe you for the great porting thread! The day you where writing it while you where doing it I was doing it with you. Had my lap top and dremmel waiting for the next picture to show up. Anything you need let me know.

I'm glad I could help. How did your head turn out? You get it back together? Make a difference? I ended up buying some flap wheels in 3/4" diameter..60,80,120,180, 220 and 320 grits. Makes doing the intake alot faster and easier.

[chrisroberts916]

Originally Posted by kfxguy

I'm glad I could help. How did your head turn out? You get it back together? Make a difference? I ended up buying some flap wheels in 3/4" diameter..60,80,120,180, 220 and 320 grits. Makes doing the intake alot faster and easier.

Not back together yet. Still need new valves, springs and cams. Just got the +4 crank installed. Found a broken 2nd gear, fixed that and new oil pump. Collecting pieces and will debut in Spring. The one getting the make over is my '08, I still have a '04 that I ride daily. So no big rush to get it done which is nice. I will pm you some time for advice on cams and valves. (After you get yours back together, lol)

[decentZ89]

my kit just came via fedex today..the oven we have at work is HUGE but it doesnt have a window..i feel as though this will cause some difficulty as the instructions state after flow out you bake for 20 min..im not gonna know what the part begins to flow