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11-06-2010, 09:24 AM
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#61 (permalink) |
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:::Official Spammer:::
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,062
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if i can do it you can do it
maybe try a dull wood chisel to just get it started ,dont use a sharp one
__________________
03 ltz400,95.5bore,+5crank,P&P,13.7:1,JE piston,spacer plate,RHC +1 intakes valves,RHC #208in&187ex cams,DRZ manual decomp,DID cam chain,no air box,Sredrum TB 42mm FCR,RAT stack,WB fuel screw,EMN needle,quick shot,06 clutch 450r drive plates w/trx400 ex springs,C2HB,ex thumber,trx450r air boot, Barker Performance pipe, trailteck flywheel,dynatek,nerf bars,450r shocks, nerf bars,+4 swinger,lowered front & rear |
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12-31-2010, 07:43 PM
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#63 (permalink) |
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:::LT500 Rider:::
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: OK
Posts: 1,208
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Just to let you guys know you can get the whole pump assembly minus the cover from kawasaki oem parts kfx400 for about 80 bucks if you don't feel like rebuilding yours. Suzuki wants 135 for their pump, thats a savings of 55 bucks. Plus it's only a few more dollars then a full rebuild of the pump minus the hassle of doing it. Thats worth the 80 bucks to me because I know all the bearings, seals, and impeller are brand new. I would hate to rebuild mine to have a bearing that wobbles and causes premature wear. Probably wise when it's going on a motor that's getting up in age.
Kawi Part# 49044 81.00 Oklahoma Suzuki, Yamaha, Kawasaki, KTM & Honda Motorcycle Dealer: New & Used ATVs, Motorcycles, ATV Parts, Accessories, Goldwing Trikes & Sport Motor Trike in OK – Altus Motorsports Suzuki Part# 17400-29F00 135.00 Oklahoma Suzuki, Yamaha, Kawasaki, KTM & Honda Motorcycle Dealer: New & Used ATVs, Motorcycles, ATV Parts, Accessories, Goldwing Trikes & Sport Motor Trike in OK – Altus Motorsports
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LRD Attitude Aluminum Frame, 462cc Stroker, 41mm FCR, 540/539cams, Curtis Sparks Exhaust, Dyna Prog, Fox Float EVOL DSC up front, +2 Burgard A-arms, Janssen Outlaw Rear Suspension Kit with Elka stage 3 shock, Team Industries +3 Axle, Hipers, Flexx Bars, Laker Plastics, intake by me, front mounted battery, Rekluse EXP clutch, Trailtech flywheel, and a few other goodies  .
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07-05-2011, 12:22 PM
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#64 (permalink) |
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:::Rookie Rider:::
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: magdlen islands, QC
Posts: 35
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OMG THAN YOU! i put another cover on and another o-ring and gasket maker over the o-ring and still leaked out of the bottom i was frustrated! today i was goin to get a bigger o - ring but now i know what it finnaly is thanks to u! ... i have a spare cover and i hope the seal is still good but i still dont understand why it would leak because theres a o - ring there .. you know wat i mean?
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07-05-2011, 12:26 PM
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#65 (permalink) |
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:::Get a life! You're over 5000 posts:::
 
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Southern California
Posts: 5,264
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Wtf?
__________________
2005 Z-400 Mine January 2011 QOTM 2004 Z-400 Brad'Z October 2011 QOTM http://www.suzukicentral.com/forums/...tm-winner.html 2004 Z-400 Wife's 1996 Sandsprite IV (sandrail) MINE Sponsors: Coors Light.............I sponsor them  !Life is tough...........it's tougher if you're stupid. |
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07-09-2011, 11:05 PM
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#66 (permalink) |
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:::Rookie Rider:::
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 7
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I am installing the mechanical seal for the waterpump. It went out after I changed my timing chain and had the side cover off. Funny thing is my friend also changed his timing chain and his started leaking too. The common denominator was that we both took our radiator hose off without draining the coolant out of the drain plug on the waterpump. I quess the back pressure in the engine took out the mechanical seal. Live and learn. Drain the coolant before taking any hoses off.
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09-07-2011, 12:33 AM
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#69 (permalink) |
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:::Rookie Rider:::
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 6
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I am unable to view the pictures that go alone with the water pump seal replacement. Do they have to be online for me to view pics? The write up sounds really detailed and have one question about inserting the mechanical seal. Is this seal seated in with a hammer using a same radius coupler around the metal edge? If any could send me pics or tell me how to view them that would help finish my understanding of the full detailed report on replacing the mechanical seal. Thanks.
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09-07-2011, 05:05 AM
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#70 (permalink) | |
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:::Official Spammer:::
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,062
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Quote:
__________________
03 ltz400,95.5bore,+5crank,P&P,13.7:1,JE piston,spacer plate,RHC +1 intakes valves,RHC #208in&187ex cams,DRZ manual decomp,DID cam chain,no air box,Sredrum TB 42mm FCR,RAT stack,WB fuel screw,EMN needle,quick shot,06 clutch 450r drive plates w/trx400 ex springs,C2HB,ex thumber,trx450r air boot, Barker Performance pipe, trailteck flywheel,dynatek,nerf bars,450r shocks, nerf bars,+4 swinger,lowered front & rear |
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09-12-2011, 01:12 PM
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#71 (permalink) | |
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:::Rookie Rider:::
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Thanks |
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09-12-2011, 01:19 PM
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#72 (permalink) | ||
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:::Rookie Rider:::
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 6
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Quote:
Quote:
So I followed the detailed info link above on replacing the seals and now I have a leak worse than what I had started out with. Inside the mechanical seal there are 2 notch across from each other. Do these need to be horizontal, vertical or does it matter? Talkin with a buddy of mine he said it could possibley be the impeller shaft that has worn down and allowing coolant to leak. Any ideas? Could it have been a bad seal that was sold to me? Thanks, |
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