Drz Front Sprocket (12t) - Suzuki Z400 Forum : Z400 Forums
 
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-10-2009, 02:23 AM Thread Starter
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Does the DRZ 12 tooth sprocket fit on the LTZ spline....or DRZ-E? If yes, is it a certain year?

I bought a 12t listed on ebay as a "DRZ400 12t". When it got here the package said: RM250 ,RMX250, and LT250R on it. So I contacted the seller who said that this sprocket will also fit the DRZ400, but didn't think that the DRZ sprocket fit on the LTZ.

So me, thinking that the DRZ fits the LTZ because 3 buddies of mine bought DRZ 12ts for their Zs and they fit, bought it. On the one I got the teeth were too fat so it only slipped on about an eighth on an inch and no more.

Anyone here running a 12t or know something about this?

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-10-2009, 09:31 AM
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The problem with the DRZ is the spocket is held on with a nut and a lock washer. The LTZ sprockets have the two bolt holes and is held on by that sprocket plate. It may fit on the splines, but I don't know how you would keep it on.

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-10-2009, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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QUOTE (captain uno @ Jan 10 2009, 08:31 AM)
Quote:
The problem with the DRZ is the spocket is held on with a nut and a lock washer. The LTZ sprockets have the two bolt holes and is held on by that sprocket plate. It may fit on the splines, but I don't know how you would keep it on.[/b]
Its held on with a C clip right in the groove where the retainer usually rotates. I understand that the DRZ has a rised ring that has to be ground down to be able to slide it on just far enough to expose that groove. I guess what I'm trying to figure out here in whether these guys really sent me a DRZ sprocket because we couldn't even get it all the way on the spline.

So I would actually need to find someone with a DRZ400 to try it on. Maybe they changed the DRZ spline after a certain year.

It wasn't expensive, but I wanted them to refund it and my shipping, if it isn't really a DRZ sprocket. If it is then why do my buddies "DRZ" sprockets fit their Z400 and not mine?


CT Racing 440 w/5 angle valve job/porting;+4 crank;KW stainless;12.5:1 Weisco
40mm FCR;185 main;45 pilot;JD needle on 4th;adjustable leak jet;540/539;Vortex cdi

FCI intake;CT Sonic exhaust/14 disks
Flexx Bars;Dr.D.reverse;tether kill;Power Mads;Houser+1;Precision;IMS nerfs,pegs,heel guards;PRM skids;bull horn;air scoops

GTTshock/linkage;Elkas on JD Performance LT+2s;LSR +1.25;Razr2s/HiperTech3s;LSR axcalibur;moose block off;relocated ignition and idiot lights. Now...officially broke....
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-10-2009, 12:57 PM
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The output shaft should be the same spline and size.
Depending on the manufacturer it may be tight, I have a Sunstar that is really tight on there.. make sure your splines are clean.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-10-2009, 02:49 PM
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QUOTE (icanzu @ Jan 10 2009, 11:19 AM)
Quote:
Its held on with a C clip right in the groove where the retainer usually rotates. I understand that the DRZ has a rised ring that has to be ground down to be able to slide it on just far enough to expose that groove. I guess what I'm trying to figure out here in whether these guys really sent me a DRZ sprocket because we couldn't even get it all the way on the spline.

So I would actually need to find someone with a DRZ400 to try it on. Maybe they changed the DRZ spline after a certain year.

It wasn't expensive, but I wanted them to refund it and my shipping, if it isn't really a DRZ sprocket. If it is then why do my buddies "DRZ" sprockets fit their Z400 and not mine?[/b]

I don't think there is any way to get a DRZ sprocket to fit on a LTZ without some modification to the sprocket. Even if the splines where the same, and I am not sure they are, how would you get it to stay on? The DRZ sprocket doesn't have bolt grooves in it for the LTZ keeper plate and the 2 bolts that hold it in place.

All year DRZ's are the same for sprockets.


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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-10-2009, 03:16 PM
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You can use a C-clip or snap ring in the groove on the output shaft, to hold it.
The spline and shaft size are the only question.. but I think they are pretty close.

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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-10-2009, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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QUOTE (captain uno @ Jan 10 2009, 01:49 PM)
Quote:
I don't think there is any way to get a DRZ sprocket to fit on a LTZ without some modification to the sprocket. Even if the splines where the same, and I am not sure they are, how would you get it to stay on? The DRZ sprocket doesn't have bolt grooves in it for the LTZ keeper plate and the 2 bolts that hold it in place.

All year DRZ's are the same for sprockets.[/b]
QUOTE (icanzu @ Jan 10 2009, 11:19 AM) *
Its held on with a C clip right in the groove where the retainer usually rotates. I understand that the DRZ has a rised ring that has to be ground down to be able to slide it on just far enough to expose that groove. I guess what I'm trying to figure out here in whether these guys really sent me a DRZ sprocket because we couldn't even get it all the way on the spline.

So I would actually need to find someone with a DRZ400 to try it on. Maybe they changed the DRZ spline after a certain year.

It wasn't expensive, but I wanted them to refund it and my shipping, if it isn't really a DRZ sprocket. If it is then why do my buddies "DRZ" sprockets fit their Z400 and not mine?


Well, all I know is that this guy I spoke to and two of his buddies have 12t sprockets held on with C clips and said that they slid on just like the ones we're all using. I think he said he bought the DRZ 12t from RMATV. That's why I thought that maybe the one off of ebay aint really a DRZ. The teeth were definitely fatter than the teeth on the 13 & 14 I've got. I didn't want to force it too far past where it got real tight.

I'm thinkin' I ought to get a hold of this guy again and confirm some stuff.

CT Racing 440 w/5 angle valve job/porting;+4 crank;KW stainless;12.5:1 Weisco
40mm FCR;185 main;45 pilot;JD needle on 4th;adjustable leak jet;540/539;Vortex cdi

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Flexx Bars;Dr.D.reverse;tether kill;Power Mads;Houser+1;Precision;IMS nerfs,pegs,heel guards;PRM skids;bull horn;air scoops

GTTshock/linkage;Elkas on JD Performance LT+2s;LSR +1.25;Razr2s/HiperTech3s;LSR axcalibur;moose block off;relocated ignition and idiot lights. Now...officially broke....
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 09:05 AM
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I'm thinking you should probably look at the splines on your countershaft and see if they aren't TWISTED!! I have personally worked on 2 that were twisted so badly I had to cut the sprocet off! Why the Hellll do you want to run a 12 tooth sprocket anyhow? Your motor have no balls? The 12 tooth sprocket will wear out your chain twice as fast because it has to make a much tighter loop and will also cause the chain to constantly rid on the upper swingarm guide causing drag! Why not just get a larger rear sprocket?

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 12:10 PM
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And this is why I dont buy parts like this on ebay. Only thing I've ever bought on ebay was rear hubs because the dealership wanted $85 a peice and I got 2 for $30 in great shape!
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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QUOTE (05riverrat-Z @ Jan 11 2009, 08:05 AM)
Quote:
I'm thinking you should probably look at the splines on your countershaft and see if they aren't TWISTED!! I have personally worked on 2 that were twisted so badly I had to cut the sprocet off! Why the Hellll do you want to run a 12 tooth sprocket anyhow? Your motor have no balls? The 12 tooth sprocket will wear out your chain twice as fast because it has to make a much tighter loop and will also cause the chain to constantly rid on the upper swingarm guide causing drag! Why not just get a larger rear sprocket?[/b]
The splines are not twisted. My 13 and 14 slide on and off like butter. These numb-nuts just listed it as a DRZ sprocket, and its not. That's why it doesn't fit. They're trying to tell me that the sprocket for the DRZ is the same as for the RM250 LT250R etc. Those are 2 stroke motors right? The DRZ and the LTZ are pretty much the same motor and the DRZ sprocket should fit. The splines are the same.

Anyway...the reason why I want to run a 12/42 set up is because I ride here in SW Missouri in areas that are REAL rocky and steep. We also ride around in the trials-bike area and climb over retarded Sh*t. So I want to be able to lug powerfully in second without clutching myself silly or having to shift to first as often. That's where the bead locks come in handy too, so I can run 2 to 3 lbs in the rear in that stuff without busting a bead. If I go up much further in the rear I'll have to shim the skid plate too low. Its getting trashed as is with a 40t.

And yes...as a matter of fact, my motor has fairly large balls. Maybe the problem lies with the driver.
I've been running these areas with a 13/40 set up for a while and done OK. But the three guys I run with that went to the 12/42 said it really made a difference, specifically in that kinda terrain.

Appreciate the heads up on the wear factor. I figured on that too, and I'm not real thrilled about it so I'll be watching things closely. When I'm on trails and more open woods at higher speeds I switch back to 13/40-42 anyway, and on the track to 14/40.

CT Racing 440 w/5 angle valve job/porting;+4 crank;KW stainless;12.5:1 Weisco
40mm FCR;185 main;45 pilot;JD needle on 4th;adjustable leak jet;540/539;Vortex cdi

FCI intake;CT Sonic exhaust/14 disks
Flexx Bars;Dr.D.reverse;tether kill;Power Mads;Houser+1;Precision;IMS nerfs,pegs,heel guards;PRM skids;bull horn;air scoops

GTTshock/linkage;Elkas on JD Performance LT+2s;LSR +1.25;Razr2s/HiperTech3s;LSR axcalibur;moose block off;relocated ignition and idiot lights. Now...officially broke....
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 01-11-2009, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
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QUOTE (we go braaap @ Jan 11 2009, 11:10 AM)
Quote:
And this is why I dont buy parts like this on ebay. Only thing I've ever bought on ebay was rear hubs because the dealership wanted $85 a peice and I got 2 for $30 in great shape! [/b]
There's tons of stuff/parts bought on ebay every day that are just fine. You said it yourself $85 vs $15. That's the same reason anyone would shop on ebay. I guess you gotta consider the risks. That's where Paypal can be helpful. Fortunately it's only a few bucks, which I will, get back.

CT Racing 440 w/5 angle valve job/porting;+4 crank;KW stainless;12.5:1 Weisco
40mm FCR;185 main;45 pilot;JD needle on 4th;adjustable leak jet;540/539;Vortex cdi

FCI intake;CT Sonic exhaust/14 disks
Flexx Bars;Dr.D.reverse;tether kill;Power Mads;Houser+1;Precision;IMS nerfs,pegs,heel guards;PRM skids;bull horn;air scoops

GTTshock/linkage;Elkas on JD Performance LT+2s;LSR +1.25;Razr2s/HiperTech3s;LSR axcalibur;moose block off;relocated ignition and idiot lights. Now...officially broke....
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