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post #16 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-28-2019, 01:33 PM Thread Starter
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I'm using second hand info here, but I was under the impression that they did use the set screws at one point in time, then abandoned that method for a tighter interference fit later on. I believe I even got that out of one of the guys from Max Power.

I also know that since then, they have been o-ringing the top deck, which is a groove cut into the top deck, around the cylinder, where you lay a piece of wire, butting the ends. This wire sticks above the deck surface, and tightens the seal at the head gasket when you bolt it together. I am a big fan of that. I do the same on my big bore builds. I'm not sure it can be done with those set screws in there though. I believe at that time, they were just using an appropriately sized head gasket.

Im sol on this one, stuck with what ive got. The o ring does sound superior.

I would lightly deck the deck surface of the head and cylinder, to check for any low spots. 1, because sleeves can bring about abnormal issues, and 2 because just about every head that I do this to, had a low spot, and just about every time I have anything like this come in with a head gasket issue, there are low spots in the head causing it. Some were even chronic issues that had already had the head gasket changed a couple times trying to solve the issue. By decking, I always solve it.

Im going to assume the worst and agree that this is probably a chronic issue they couldn't fix.

Personally, I do what they call lapping, to the deck surfaces. I have a flat plate of glass, that I spray adhesive down, and stick sand paper to. Then I do figure 8's with it, and look for any area that is not showing contact. That would be a low spot, and I will keep going until it's gone. Keep in mind that finish matters. I generally use 320 grit to finish. I use something coarser at first if I have a ways to go to. This is a nice way to only take what's necessary. If you are unsure about your finish, you can spray the gasket with copper coat. The MLS style gaskets are fussy on finish. It's not a polished finish that they want, but it's not too far from it.

This makes complete sense to me and I have a big thick flat sheet of glass ready. What grit would you suggest starting just to check if there are low spots? Or say what the heaviest grit you would go first?

Ill start tearing it down soon and post some pics. What have I got myself in to

Last edited by QuadSnort; 10-28-2019 at 01:38 PM.
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post #17 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-28-2019, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by QuadSnort View Post
Thank you! Reply in quote below.




Ill start tearing it down soon and post some pics. What have I got myself in to

I have gone as far as 60 grit, I generally stay 80 or finer. If you go too coarse, you can find yourself trying to get past the deep scratches left by the coarse paper. I always finish with something around 330.

You want to be careful of your choice of adhesive also. It needs to be very thin.
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post #18 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-28-2019, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Roger that CFM.

Making my way thru disassembly.

Please let me know if im looking for any specific damage. Or if there is something you want to see.


valves are crusty.


At least the parts were really in there!










After a closer look. The last "corrugated" piston ring is missing a large piece of it and looks like its interlocked in another part. Might be hard to see. Im gonna say this would cause the smoke?







Now where are gettin somewhere?? What now?

Last edited by QuadSnort; 10-28-2019 at 11:00 PM.
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post #19 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-28-2019, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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Ok got a little further. Found major milky situation. The water pump impeller was really stuck in there and maybe not working....would this cause the milk issue as shown?
(was not leaking out the weep hole, ive dealt with that before)








Thank you guys for all the help, despite all the issues im having fun learning and documenting for others to learn from.

Last edited by QuadSnort; 10-28-2019 at 09:29 PM.
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post #20 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-28-2019, 09:42 PM
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Someone put a few bucks into that one. The ring that you are missing part of is the oil flinger. Doesn’t make a seal, it’s just there to help throw oil on the cylinder walls. Probably not your smoke issue, but needs to be replaced.

That corrosion all over the water pump shaft made the inner o-ring fail, allowing coolant into the oil. As with any seal, it needs a smooth surface to run on in order to do its job.

With all that going on, you’ll want to pull that brown plastic gear and the oil pump. I’d replace the plastic on no matter what shape it’s in. It runs the oil pump and will shear off the teeth if the oil pump got any junk in it. The fact that it hasn’t means it wasn’t run very long with milky oil. Also take oil pump apart and clean it out/look for wear.

Those look like aftermarket valves, probably Kibblewhite. Can’t see the springs to tell if they are factory, but I doubt they are. The two intake valves look nasty. If they are wet with oil on the other side (down the intake ports), the those valve seals could be your smoking problem. Either that, worn rings, or blown head gasket.

'05 Z
94mm bbk, +4 stroker, Hot Cams, Vertex piston, FMF Power Bomb header and Power Core can, KW black diamond valves/dual springs, FCR39, K&N, Elka long-travel LT fronts and rear, Houser +3, +3/4 LT A-arms, American Star pro xs chromoly tie rods, Dyna non-programable, Tusk +3 axle.

Last edited by jetmech25; 10-28-2019 at 09:48 PM.
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post #21 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-28-2019, 10:32 PM Thread Starter
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Someone put a few bucks into that one. The ring that you are missing part of is the oil flinger. Doesn’t make a seal, it’s just there to help throw oil on the cylinder walls. Probably not your smoke issue, but needs to be replaced.
Thanks very much. Will be ordering all new rings.

That corrosion all over the water pump shaft made the inner o-ring fail, allowing coolant into the oil. As with any seal, it needs a smooth surface to run on in order to do its job.

Are you talking about the oil seal?

With all that going on, you’ll want to pull that brown plastic gear and the oil pump. I’d replace the plastic on no matter what shape it’s in. It runs the oil pump and will shear off the teeth if the oil pump got any junk in it. The fact that it hasn’t means it wasn’t run very long with milky oil. Also take oil pump apart and clean it out/look for wear.
Im switching to other stock lower end, but I will do it to that one! Know where I can buy one? Awesome tips.

Those look like aftermarket valves, probably Kibblewhite. Can’t see the springs to tell if they are factory, but I doubt they are. The two intake valves look nasty. If they are wet with oil on the other side (down the intake ports), the those valve seals could be your smoking problem. Either that, worn rings, or blown head gasket.
Will work on getting a valve spring compressor, so we can know for sure. May make one. Looking to inspect/fix as much as I can while opened up.
On a side note:

Is there a way for me to tell if the crank is aftermarket from here? The connecting rod looks oem, so Id assume the crank is?
Hopefully no issue using my good stock lower end.

On the clutch pack, should I contact clean all the plates then re-oil soak them?

Last edited by QuadSnort; 10-28-2019 at 10:55 PM. Reason: edit
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post #22 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-29-2019, 03:27 AM
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Yes. The seal between the two. Once it fails, the system with the most pressure wins, so coolant ends up in the oil.

Just about anyone that has bike-specific parts will have the plastic gear.

I just cut a window into the side of a deep well 1/2” socket and put it on a speed handle. Lay the head on a piece of foam so it doesn’t scratch the deck surface. Push the spring down with the socket and stick a magnet in the window to grab the 2 keepers, then let go.

Not sure about contact cleaner on the clutch. I’d just wipe it down and soak it in fresh oil.

'05 Z
94mm bbk, +4 stroker, Hot Cams, Vertex piston, FMF Power Bomb header and Power Core can, KW black diamond valves/dual springs, FCR39, K&N, Elka long-travel LT fronts and rear, Houser +3, +3/4 LT A-arms, American Star pro xs chromoly tie rods, Dyna non-programable, Tusk +3 axle.
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post #23 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-29-2019, 04:04 AM Thread Starter
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^ Thanks bro!

Crappy pics, but its getting late. Had time to get the swingarm, axle and bits finally on the frame

So ready to start stabbing the "new" parts on the motor.


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post #24 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-29-2019, 01:16 PM
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Milkshaked it. It's most likely from the water pump as mentioned.

The piston looks decent. I'd measure to be for sure, but it appears that rings and honing the cylinder would get some more life out of it. Does the cylinder feel like there's a ripple where the rings stop? If so, it may be toast.

That head looks like it's had some porting done from looking at the chamber. It's a little hard to tell whether those are stock or Ferrea valves. Kibblewhite have more of a bowl shape from the under side. Ferrea and stock look similar when covered with carbon, but it's easy to tell them apart once disassembled and cleaned.

That clutch is 03-04. I recommend finding 05+ clutch parts so you can add a couple more plates. The 03-04 has trouble holding with a modified engine. You should be able to use that same basket, but you will need the inner hub and pressure plate.
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post #25 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-29-2019, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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^^Awesome thanks!

Went out an ran my finger all in the cylinder and its real smooth. I can feel the slightest of anything where that "drip" looking part is on the wall. But overall its all real smooth to my finger.

That said, Im going to pay a local cycle shop to hone the cylinder and to resurface the head.

I need to get the valves out, ill post pics when I do.

The motor in the frame is 06 with complete clutch so I have the inner hub and pressure plate in there...do I need to buy a whole new plate pack? Hate to pull out Hinson plates for Tusk but...

Last edited by QuadSnort; 10-29-2019 at 05:15 PM.
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post #26 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-29-2019, 05:29 PM
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^^Awesome thanks!

Went out an ran my finger all in the cylinder and its real smooth. I can feel the slightest of anything where that "drip" looking part is on the wall. But overall its all real smooth to my finger.

That said, Im going to pay a local cycle shop to hone the cylinder and to resurface the head.

I need to get the valves out, ill post pics when I do.

The motor in the frame is 06 with complete clutch so I have the inner hub and pressure plate in there...do I need to buy a whole new plate pack? Hate to pull out Hinson plates for Tusk but...
You can just add to what you have in there now. The couple extra plates will definitely help the clutch hold more torque.
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post #27 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-29-2019, 05:36 PM Thread Starter
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Cool so ill just use a couple plates from the 06 and the inner hub and pressure plate. Thats great info for all!



Gonna get started soon. Going to get the front end buttoned up tonight so I can roll the thing around.



Thanks again for all the help!
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post #28 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-29-2019, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
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On the water pump: I had an extra mechanical seal, but the shaft hole is bigger. Does 05+ have larger impeller shaft?

Ill be using the 06 water pump assembly, hopefully no issues with this sweet cover.




Last edited by QuadSnort; 10-29-2019 at 06:19 PM.
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post #29 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-29-2019, 06:46 PM
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On the water pump: I had an extra mechanical seal, but the shaft hole is bigger. Does 05+ have larger impeller shaft?

Ill be using the 06 water pump assembly, hopefully no issues with this sweet cover.
There were differences between the 03-04 and the 05+ at the water pump. The clutch cover can accept either one, but the water pump parts are different.
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post #30 of 56 (permalink) Old 10-30-2019, 02:54 PM Thread Starter
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^ That is great info for all, thanks!

Got all the pivot works link bearings and seals pressed in.

Revalved Dual Rate oem rear shock.
TM chain roller. I screwed up and didnt have fireball make skid plate mounts on the swing arm.

Shes on her own legs now. Thing rolls so smooooth.


A arms were kind of a pain to get setup, still not perfect but close enough for now. Dual piston calipers tucked in there nicely. Gotta make the bracket for the rear still.


Rings, gaskets etc all on the way.
Will start tearing down this stock motor soon.
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Last edited by QuadSnort; 10-30-2019 at 03:00 PM.
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