HELP with Cam Chain Install - Suzuki Z400 Forum : Z400 Forums
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 09:35 AM Thread Starter
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Angry HELP with Cam Chain Install

Hey guys, this weekend my goal was to replace my clutch and cam chain. I followed some step by step threads on here and used my KFX400 shop manual.

What I did:

removed cams, shimmed vales, removed clutch basket, removed old cam chain, replaced cam chain - all good

What went wrong:

I went to tighten the left hand threaded primary drive bolt to 101.5 ft lbs of torque with my dad on the other side holding the crank bolt and the crank bolt came loose on the other side...

The step by step threads and manual were not too helpful on this step, I think I should have installed my cams, and clutch before I attempted this. Currently what I am having an issue with is I need to tighten the following bolts:

Primary drive nut
Crank bolt on other side
clutch basket bolt - this just spins the main crank, very hard to keep it from moving.

How to fix this?

What should I do first, and need to do to tighten these bolts? What would be the best course of action to approach this?

03' Z400 -Full Ti Yoshimura TRS, FCR39, GP3 +2 stem, Elka stage 3's & link, Hermann swing arm, LSR axle, AC nerfs w/IMS healguards & pegs, DG bumper, OMF beadlocks, Maxxis I-Razars, Flexx Bars, QuadTech Shrouds

03' KFX400 - xc to mx rebuild going on here --->
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 12:07 PM
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He shouldn’t be holding a bolt on the other side. He should be using the 27mm wrench on the generator itself. Factory manual page 3-51. The generator goes on first and it is used to hold the crank while everything else is torqued.

'05 Z
94mm bbk, +4 stroker, Hot Cams, Vertex piston, FMF Power Bomb header and Power Core can, KW black diamond valves/dual springs, FCR39, K&N, Elka long-travel LT fronts and rear, Houser +3, +3/4 LT A-arms, American Star pro xs chromoly tie rods, Dyna non-programable, Tusk +3 axle.

Last edited by jetmech25; 06-18-2018 at 12:11 PM.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 02:15 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetmech25 View Post
He shouldn’t be holding a bolt on the other side. He should be using the 27mm wrench on the generator itself. Factory manual page 3-51. The generator goes on first and it is used to hold the crank while everything else is torqued.
From my research it sounds like I need to get the clutch basket bolt tight first, then put in all the clutch discs, install cams, caps torque them all down. Then work on torquing the primary bolt and then do the generator bolt?

The bolt that came loose is like 15 mm and is found under the crank bolt access cover and is the same bolt you turn to get TDC. I am not sure if its the same nut or not. I will have to look at page 3-51 and check that out.

03' Z400 -Full Ti Yoshimura TRS, FCR39, GP3 +2 stem, Elka stage 3's & link, Hermann swing arm, LSR axle, AC nerfs w/IMS healguards & pegs, DG bumper, OMF beadlocks, Maxxis I-Razars, Flexx Bars, QuadTech Shrouds

03' KFX400 - xc to mx rebuild going on here --->
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 02:24 PM Thread Starter
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I found this image and I think I see what you are talking about. Do you hold the 27mm bolt with a wrench and then torque the crank bolt? I have never removed this cover but it looks like I need to in order to tighten this.
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03' Z400 -Full Ti Yoshimura TRS, FCR39, GP3 +2 stem, Elka stage 3's & link, Hermann swing arm, LSR axle, AC nerfs w/IMS healguards & pegs, DG bumper, OMF beadlocks, Maxxis I-Razars, Flexx Bars, QuadTech Shrouds

03' KFX400 - xc to mx rebuild going on here --->
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 03:12 PM
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Exactly.

'05 Z
94mm bbk, +4 stroker, Hot Cams, Vertex piston, FMF Power Bomb header and Power Core can, KW black diamond valves/dual springs, FCR39, K&N, Elka long-travel LT fronts and rear, Houser +3, +3/4 LT A-arms, American Star pro xs chromoly tie rods, Dyna non-programable, Tusk +3 axle.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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Still working on this project, turns out I did't have a 27mm offset wrench so I got one off of Amazon, should get it tomorrow. The primary drive bolt I understand how to tighten that and the TDC bolt and I still have a couple questions.

I am working on tightening the 27mm clutch basket bolt and even with the EBC clutch tool it wants to spin the crank and everything else. Should u use the 27mm offset wrench to hold the crank bolt on the generator side when I torque the clutch basket bolt? The manual doesn't mention anything about other parts moving when this is torqued.

And is it safe to torque the primary drive bolt and clutch basket bolt with cams installed and timing set?
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03' Z400 -Full Ti Yoshimura TRS, FCR39, GP3 +2 stem, Elka stage 3's & link, Hermann swing arm, LSR axle, AC nerfs w/IMS healguards & pegs, DG bumper, OMF beadlocks, Maxxis I-Razars, Flexx Bars, QuadTech Shrouds

03' KFX400 - xc to mx rebuild going on here --->
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 05:19 PM
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2007 LTZ 400.. 94mm J&E piston, +4mm hotrods crank, 536webb cams,wiseco valves, 39mm fcr, tokyo mods throttle spring, honda thumb throttle,spring removed. yoshimura full exhaust, honda 400ex intake tube, no air box
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-25-2018, 06:49 PM
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Use a washer or big flat screwdriver as shown to hold it still while torquing both of those.
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'05 Z
94mm bbk, +4 stroker, Hot Cams, Vertex piston, FMF Power Bomb header and Power Core can, KW black diamond valves/dual springs, FCR39, K&N, Elka long-travel LT fronts and rear, Houser +3, +3/4 LT A-arms, American Star pro xs chromoly tie rods, Dyna non-programable, Tusk +3 axle.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 09:43 PM
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Probably not the brightest idea on my part, but I just did mine today and I jammed one point of needle nose pliers where the gears behind the primary nut mesh, and hit it with an impact today. Got to 100 ft/lbs with ease
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old 06-27-2018, 10:42 PM
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Torque wrenches are nice. You may never get that off.

'05 Z
94mm bbk, +4 stroker, Hot Cams, Vertex piston, FMF Power Bomb header and Power Core can, KW black diamond valves/dual springs, FCR39, K&N, Elka long-travel LT fronts and rear, Houser +3, +3/4 LT A-arms, American Star pro xs chromoly tie rods, Dyna non-programable, Tusk +3 axle.
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