Brown flakes in tank, been sitting, kfx400 - Suzuki Z400 Forum : Z400 Forums
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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 04:45 PM Thread Starter
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Brown flakes in tank, been sitting, kfx400

Kfx 400 has been sitting in shed for a while, noticed today there's like brown flakes in the bottom the empty tank. It's plastic so figure it can't be rust, is it like dried sludge? Is it a big deal since there's a filter in the tank? Or am i gonna have to remove the whole thing?
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 05-01-2019, 06:43 PM
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Take the tank off and rinse it with fresh gas a couple times. They probably came from a dirty gas can and got into the tank. You can also remove the petcok and clean the filter itself.

'05 Z
94mm bbk, +4 stroker, Hot Cams, Vertex piston, FMF Power Bomb header and Power Core can, KW black diamond valves/dual springs, FCR39, K&N, Elka long-travel LT fronts and rear, Houser +3, +3/4 LT A-arms, American Star pro xs chromoly tie rods, Dyna non-programable, Tusk +3 axle.
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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jetmech25 View Post
Take the tank off and rinse it with fresh gas a couple times. They probably came from a dirty gas can and got into the tank. You can also remove the petcok and clean the filter itself.
Tried removing the petcock and the cheap brown filter broke. Are both those filters? The metal ones all covered in green from old gas I guess.. the paper brown one is shorter which broke. Are they easy to replace? Or can I just put an inline filter instead of spending $100?Everytime I fix something another thing breaks..

Last edited by tampafan; 06-09-2019 at 02:13 PM.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Well the petcock is trash.. Got it out but broke the main filter too lol. Guess now I have a reason to switch to a raptor pet. For that I just hook up as usual and put a rubber nip over the vacuum inlet on the carb? I read the size is 3/16 is that correct? Seems the fuel line is gonna be a pain to get off the old petcock tho. Is the stock line the same size/fit as the raptor?

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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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OK so one of these should Fit, right https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-assort-DO.../333168526022?

And is the petcock in the pic attached right, it's 2004
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Last edited by tampafan; 06-09-2019 at 05:37 PM.
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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-09-2019, 10:21 PM
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Yeah, just scrap the entire petcok. The new Raptor petcok comes with those filters as part of the unit. Make sure itís a Yamaha part and not some cheap Chinese knockoff or youíll have problems. It hooks right up, same sizes, and plug the vacuum port. I imagine your carb is a mess, too.
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'05 Z
94mm bbk, +4 stroker, Hot Cams, Vertex piston, FMF Power Bomb header and Power Core can, KW black diamond valves/dual springs, FCR39, K&N, Elka long-travel LT fronts and rear, Houser +3, +3/4 LT A-arms, American Star pro xs chromoly tie rods, Dyna non-programable, Tusk +3 axle.
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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Ya I ordered one from rockymountain, not taking chances to save a few $$.. And on the vaccum cap do you know the size? Think I read someone used 3/16 somewhere but not sure
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-12-2019, 02:54 PM
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Sounds right. If not, a small piece of hose with a random bolt in it and a zip tie to hold it in place works.

'05 Z
94mm bbk, +4 stroker, Hot Cams, Vertex piston, FMF Power Bomb header and Power Core can, KW black diamond valves/dual springs, FCR39, K&N, Elka long-travel LT fronts and rear, Houser +3, +3/4 LT A-arms, American Star pro xs chromoly tie rods, Dyna non-programable, Tusk +3 axle.
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 01:47 PM Thread Starter
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Got the tank cleaned out and out back on, new petcock on, but the float needle is stuck and doesn't restrict gas flow. But the screw that holds the bowl in place won't budge and the head is stripping so I can't even get to it.. Tried some needle nose vice grips and it still won't budge. There's always a screw that wants to be a pita
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-17-2019, 10:30 PM
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Those screws are monsters the first time..Should have used an impact driver first. Mini vice grips, then dremel is my progression. Once you have them out, go to ace hardware and pick pick up the stainless hex head screws the proper size. Might have to search here to find them, I forget the size at the moment, but if you take one in, you will figure it out fast..

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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 12:19 AM
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I have really good luck biting into the screw head with a pair of wire cutters vertically and twisting. Havenít met a float bowl screw that I couldnít get out yet.

'05 Z
94mm bbk, +4 stroker, Hot Cams, Vertex piston, FMF Power Bomb header and Power Core can, KW black diamond valves/dual springs, FCR39, K&N, Elka long-travel LT fronts and rear, Houser +3, +3/4 LT A-arms, American Star pro xs chromoly tie rods, Dyna non-programable, Tusk +3 axle.
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Ya I got those.. I meant the screw that holds the plastic floats in place, I couldnt look at the needle without getting it out

Tho I got the needle working for now at least.. Light tapped in the area with the rubber end of a screw driver and it started working.
Now one issue I've had for a while.. The boot from the carb to engine always slips off on the carb side.. No matter how much I tighten it.. It's like it's just too short or something.. I'd loosed the back boot, get in the front as much as it allows tighten, go to fit the back boot, slips right off. It slips when trying to start at times too.. It look like it should fit right around the second groove on the carb but it barely gets that fat

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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 02:40 PM Thread Starter
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Got it to crank but it revs when I just move the throttle cable itself and seems to be sticking, and doesn't wanna idle without choke. A while back when their was carb issues someone helped take it apart, and they put most of it back together.. So either they put the throttle into the carb wrong or its stretched maybe? Bout ready to throw it in the shop.. Carb and throttle work shouldnt be too expensive I'd guess.

Can I move the black box on the throttle side so I don't have to remove the entire carn and every hookup again? And get to the throttle hookup that way?

Last edited by tampafan; 06-19-2019 at 03:22 PM.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 05:53 PM
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You can heat the boot up with a heat gun or hair dryer to get it more pliable if it isnít going on all the way. Either that or the clamp may need replacing. It shouldnít come off like that and Iíd be worried Iíd get out in the middle of nowhere and it would pop off on me.

'05 Z
94mm bbk, +4 stroker, Hot Cams, Vertex piston, FMF Power Bomb header and Power Core can, KW black diamond valves/dual springs, FCR39, K&N, Elka long-travel LT fronts and rear, Houser +3, +3/4 LT A-arms, American Star pro xs chromoly tie rods, Dyna non-programable, Tusk +3 axle.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-19-2019, 05:57 PM
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If it revs up by moving the cable, then itís missing a jamnut or adjusted too tight. The cable itself should have a little play in it at the carb, but the cable housing shouldnít move (jamnut on both sides).

'05 Z
94mm bbk, +4 stroker, Hot Cams, Vertex piston, FMF Power Bomb header and Power Core can, KW black diamond valves/dual springs, FCR39, K&N, Elka long-travel LT fronts and rear, Houser +3, +3/4 LT A-arms, American Star pro xs chromoly tie rods, Dyna non-programable, Tusk +3 axle.
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