How To Turn Your Stock Acct Into A Mcct - Page 4 - Suzuki Z400 Forum : Z400 Forums
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post #46 of 59 (permalink) Old 12-15-2008, 08:17 AM
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QUOTE (Camaro1976 @ Dec 14 2008, 11:20 PM)
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yeah i was in a hurry and effed everything up. the existing hole is perfect for a 12 x1.75 tap i just didnt realize it at the time. my 13/32" drill was missing and i was guessing that was the right size (looking for a 0.4" drill), so i grabbed the next biggest size and it just barely scraped out the inside. then i read the packaging on the tap and it said to use a 13/32" but it was too late and the hole was a bit crooked.

but no worries now all i have to do is re-tap my new one, and countersink for the o-ring. Thanks cap! [/b]
Hey Kevin,

For future reference.

Tap Drill Chart

Dan

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post #47 of 59 (permalink) Old 12-15-2008, 11:09 PM
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Thanks dan. I was using a chart, i had this one http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm
but my 13/32" was missing but i figured it would be too small of a drill anyways so grabbed for the next size. that chart i posted the drills are in metric though so i converted to english then measured the drills with a calipers

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post #48 of 59 (permalink) Old 12-20-2008, 06:11 PM
 
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QUOTE (Camaro1976 @ Dec 15 2008, 03:33 AM)
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mine was countersunk too, but it looks like it needs to be deeper so the oring doesnt get torn apart. i might just use the washer thats on there too, i cant imagine much oil slinging out of there[/b]
It`s not the slinging of it that does it...it`s the pressure created in there that does it. Both of my APE MCCT`s seep a VERY SLIGHT amount past the O-rings...just enough that they get a little residue/dampness on the threads after awhile.
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post #49 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-20-2009, 10:06 AM
 
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I got a question on this topic. Instead of rounding the latch off to be a wheel can you just dremel the click spots on the rod smooth so that the latch has nothing to click into? Just seems easier.

Also if you just use a 12mm x 1.75 tap will it go all the way in? I know the existing hole isn't threaded in very far so at a certain point the hole would become smaller and the tap will be harder to use from cutting into more metal. Also approx. what length bolt do you have to use? And this was never answered. Is it necessary to remove the head off the plunger?

Does it need to come off because the rod slides out the back side and not in towards the motor? If so then I would not have to remove the latch, just the head and smooth the click notches down on the rod correct?
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post #50 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-20-2009, 11:36 AM
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seems like maybe the latch could wedge itself against the rod even without the notches cuz it's got those little teeth on it.
It is very easy to do and I think I used a 1 1/2" bolt........but not sure.
I don't remember having to take the head off the plunger.......do you mean to do the mod or as part of the mod?

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post #51 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-20-2009, 11:58 AM
 
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Well I already took the thing apart (left the head on the plunger) and rounded the latch out. I was wondering if the head stays off.

Its not necessary to remove it in order to get the plunger out so why do it at all? Unless its left off for the mod. Also do I put that little spring for the latch back in?

All I have to do is tap it. Going down my Fathers house later today and he has taps so I have to wait until then to tap it.

1 1/2" sounds right. The rod has about 3/4" of forward extension and when all the way in there is about .5" of thread exposed for the bolt. So 1.5" sounds close.
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post #52 of 59 (permalink) Old 03-20-2009, 05:03 PM
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QUOTE (Josh @ Mar 20 2009, 07:58 AM)
Quote:
Well I already took the thing apart (left the head on the plunger) and rounded the latch out. I was wondering if the head stays off.

Its not necessary to remove it in order to get the plunger out so why do it at all? Unless its left off for the mod. Also do I put that little spring for the latch back in?

All I have to do is tap it. Going down my Fathers house later today and he has taps so I have to wait until then to tap it.

1 1/2" sounds right. The rod has about 3/4" of forward extension and when all the way in there is about .5" of thread exposed for the bolt. So 1.5" sounds close.[/b]
The "head" on the shaft stays on........I'm almost positive of that.
I don't remember about the spring.........I think I left it in but it seem like it wouldn't be necessary.
Whichever bolt I went with I have about 3/4' sticking out when adjusted correctly.

I just used the washer without the o-ring or t-tape and it leaked like a m-f'r. Got some t-tape on it now as a quick fix but when my head comes off after my next trip out I will do the o-ring thing.

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post #53 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-13-2010, 07:37 PM
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I just thought I add a little I didn't see it in here. A 7/16 x20 tap works perfect and you can use a 3/8 a.c o-ring washer to seal it. Its the washer between your a.c compressor. And high side line available at auto parts stores. Its like a crush washer and o-ring made. Together so you.get the best.of both worlds and designed for 400 + psi
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post #54 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-13-2010, 11:51 PM
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Good info on the washer. I went through 3 or 4 of them before I found one that would fit in just right to the way I countersunk the hole.
My tap was a 7/16" 20 as well.

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post #55 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-13-2011, 10:45 AM
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very good mod i bought a motor for 235 with the side cover cracked (dang chain) but i guess it jumped time but i did this and bam no more time jumpin or chain slappin i used a ford bell housing bolt just gotta go get a smaller one so i can put my box back were it belongs good mod friend

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post #56 of 59 (permalink) Old 05-22-2011, 09:55 PM
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could you not just thread the whole thing get a longer grade 8 or case hardened bolt and round off the end that would touch the cam chain, put a jam nut on it for adjustment and be good to go?

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post #57 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-25-2011, 09:47 PM
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I finally did this mod used the 7/16 x 20 did everythng the same but instead of using an oring I used a nylock jam nut with the stock aluminum crush washer. Mod works great and no leak yet.
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post #58 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-25-2011, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SedaliaPowerSports View Post
I finally did this mod used the 7/16 x 20 did everythng the same but instead of using an oring I used a nylock jam nut with the stock aluminum crush washer. Mod works great and no leak yet.
I'd be surprised if it doesn't leak. How long did you ride it for?
Good luck and good job if it doesn't leak. Hopefully you got somthing there.

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post #59 of 59 (permalink) Old 09-25-2011, 11:18 PM
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about an hour on it so far its good, I had to run the bolt trough the nut 1 time to form the threads in the nylon then I carfully put the nut on the bolt nylon 1st. I will let you know if it leaks, just less machine work.
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