reverse rev limiter limits too much! - Suzuki Z400 Forum : Z400 Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 04:42 PM Thread Starter
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reverse rev limiter limits too much!

ok, i dont remember ever having this problem before. i remember hitting the limiter and it being a little annoying, but the past 2 rides ive had, unless im on perfectly flat ground, my reverse is useless. even going up a slight incline, it kicks in and i basically have no power. if im in a small amount of mud, and i try to back out, yeah right. i might get some mud flipped on me, but if i rock and one of the wheels catches grip, it just bogs instantly.

is there anything that could be wrong with it? id rather fix it before i just override the rev limiter, unless you guys think that is a good option. i do like getting myself stuck often trying to keep up with the 4x4 machines.


Thanks!!!
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 09:04 PM
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Just bypass it. Itís useless anyway.

'05 Z
94mm bbk, +4 stroker, Hot Cams, Vertex piston, FMF Power Bomb header and Power Core can, KW black diamond valves/dual springs, FCR39, K&N, Elka long-travel LT fronts and rear, Houser +3, +3/4 LT A-arms, American Star pro xs chromoly tie rods, Dyna non-programable, Tusk +3 axle.
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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-15-2018, 09:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jetmech25 View Post
Just bypass it. It’s useless anyway.
That's what I was thinking originally. But after a quick search online, people considering deleting it had a lot of other folks saying that it was dangerous. I have people that borrow my bike occasionally so I I was thinking that maybe I should avoid doing it.. That said, it's probably the route I should go. Another question though, am I just covering up an issue? I don't understand why it's suddenly limiting me so much lower.
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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 02:47 AM
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Probably a CDI issue, not worth replacing one for only that reason. Most of us hate the reverse limiter.

'05 Z
94mm bbk, +4 stroker, Hot Cams, Vertex piston, FMF Power Bomb header and Power Core can, KW black diamond valves/dual springs, FCR39, K&N, Elka long-travel LT fronts and rear, Houser +3, +3/4 LT A-arms, American Star pro xs chromoly tie rods, Dyna non-programable, Tusk +3 axle.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 09:12 AM Thread Starter
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ok cool. sounds like i found out what im doing in the shop tonight...

is this still the best option:

https://www.suzukicentral.com/forums/...html#post93816

ive seen it posted a few places. but ive also seen a few people state that it didnt work.
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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another question... my valves are about shot, and i was thinking about doing the drz valves/springs, and going with a thinner base gasket to up the compression.. is a cdi(which would eliminate the reverse limiter) something i am going to need/want for that anyway?

i will be keeping the stock exhaust.
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-16-2018, 10:45 PM
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The cdi will raise the rpms, up to you if it is worth it to spin the motor faster. I wouldn't bother with it if I were you, especially with a stock exhaust..

2007 LTZ 400.. 94mm J&E piston, +4mm hotrods crank, 536webb cams,wiseco valves, 39mm fcr, tokyo mods throttle spring, honda thumb throttle,spring removed. yoshimura full exhaust, honda 400ex intake tube, no air box
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-18-2018, 12:44 PM Thread Starter
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ok, thanks. should i even bother with the drz springs and the base gasket/compression increase when i redo my valves? i like speed, but im not racing. just seemed like an oem style upgrade that made sense.

id love an exhaust, but i just cant handle a louder machine. we do too much riding on private land(with permission)... dont want to annoy the people generous enough to not put up fences.

is the rev limiter bypass in the above link the best option for me?
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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-18-2018, 02:04 PM
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Valve springs do get tired. If you do the drz springs, you are covered if you do decide to change cams or ignition box..
The only downside to doing the thin base gasket is pulling the barrel, but with the head off, most of the work is done anyway. That and the fact that you will have to run high test gas with the higher compression.
When I put my hotcams in, I lost some low end grunt. By changing to the thin gasket, I got it back. It was very noticeable. I never tried it with the stock cams, but it should still be a noticeable improvement..

2007 LTZ 400.. 94mm J&E piston, +4mm hotrods crank, 536webb cams,wiseco valves, 39mm fcr, tokyo mods throttle spring, honda thumb throttle,spring removed. yoshimura full exhaust, honda 400ex intake tube, no air box
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-21-2018, 11:24 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amcf18 View Post
Valve springs do get tired. If you do the drz springs, you are covered if you do decide to change cams or ignition box..
The only downside to doing the thin base gasket is pulling the barrel, but with the head off, most of the work is done anyway. That and the fact that you will have to run high test gas with the higher compression.
When I put my hotcams in, I lost some low end grunt. By changing to the thin gasket, I got it back. It was very noticeable. I never tried it with the stock cams, but it should still be a noticeable improvement..
thanks for the response. For me, the absolute most important thing is low end. we do a lot of low speed windy rocky trails. pretty rarely do i get out of 3rd gear for most of it. not thrilled about the high test, but it is available just about everywhere i ride, and its already what i use in my other quad anyways.
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post #11 of 21 (permalink) Old 05-25-2018, 11:39 PM
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Quote:
thanks for the response. For me, the absolute most important thing is low end. we do a lot of low speed windy rocky trails. pretty rarely do i get out of 3rd gear for most of it. not thrilled about the high test, but it is available just about everywhere i ride, and its already what i use in my other quad anyways.
Gearing it down will be your biggest benefit, but you probably have done that. I often wish I had a heavier flywheel when I get in the dirty stuff, picking my way through big rocks..

2007 LTZ 400.. 94mm J&E piston, +4mm hotrods crank, 536webb cams,wiseco valves, 39mm fcr, tokyo mods throttle spring, honda thumb throttle,spring removed. yoshimura full exhaust, honda 400ex intake tube, no air box
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post #12 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 10:25 AM Thread Starter
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so, i got around to doing the rev limiter bypass. jumped 2 wires together and removed 2 wires. went smoothly, but i still have a rev limiter?! there was really nothing to mess up. so idk what is going on??!!!
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post #13 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-15-2018, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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also, took some pics to add to the how to post so people in the future can get a visual on it.

https://imgur.com/a/Bvf4TjB
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post #14 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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does anyone have any ideas here? it seems odd that i could do the rewiring, and it still doesnt work. i would have thought that if i messed up the rewiring(idk how i could, its pretty simple), that the machine wouldnt run at all.

im considering buying a dyna cdi, but im not loving the idea of spending $150 and nothing changing.
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post #15 of 21 (permalink) Old 06-18-2018, 11:56 AM
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Have you tried replacing your gear position sensor by your shifter? That may possibly have gone bad. I would look for a Dyna on eBay, I picked up a programmable one for like 85 bucks.

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