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::3 Pump Chump!::
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man that thing is stock lol. you need some mods asap
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The topend was just redone and new clutch are about the only good things lol. Guy didn't know if it was stock bore, Wiseco piston or anything. He said the shop told him what he needed and he told them do it. WooterWooterWooterWooter I could've told him many other things that needed taken care of also. It does have Pro Circuit slip on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Been raining lately so no progress. Next nice day all I need to remove is engine, radiator/fan and electrical and then start prepping for some paint. I will get some new pics as I go.
 

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dibs on the nerf shotgun!!!

look over the frame for cracks, now is the time to fix them and possibly gusset the frame. what are your plans for the rebuild?
 

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pull valve cover set tdc check valve clearance asap! inspect cams see if there are part numbers and post. then go to the ACCT the timing chain tension remove 12mm bolt,washer and spring, then remove the two hex head bolts holding the tensioner. once removed look at it ull notice grooves and easily pull out on the pluger and count how many notches are left? my guess none? if none chain is shot due to the tensioner being of bad design.
if your hell bent on tearing it down and making everything all good? then according to ur valve clearance u may need or may not need valves since stock valves are crap according to the majority! so if you are going to rip her apart look at the cam gears please! is there a 1 2 3 position on each of them? is so its pretty much stock cams if not then ur looking at prolly trying to find number on cams vs measuring them. or possibly if there are IN and EX marked on each side its most likely hotcams and ther is a thread on this cause this was my situation.
then really just mark ur buckets and shiznit pull the head and caliper the bore. 90mm bore = stock above that is big bore kits dont remove the jug unless u have to. that way u can reuse gasket. keep it clean!
draw out your head diagram and put each shim and tappet(bucket as i call) back in same position. you can do this with head off fyi sure u know this anywayz.
by all means tear into it ive tore mine down 4+ times in 1.5 weeks its fun its agravating its time consuming(less each time) its worth reading the forums!!!!!!!!!!
Sorry for the long post buddy just trying to spread wisdom i have learned in the past couple weeks shout out ( spize, kfx ,and everyone else ) look to these guys man
i know i forgot a few sorry
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The top end was just done by a local shop. If it wasn't for that I might not have done any dealing on it. Not that it wouldn't be easy to rebuild just one less thing. Everything else will be new to match by the time i'm finished which will be a slow progress at the moment. I was recently laid off from my state job and money is tight. I love tearing them down and making them new though. I will post some pics of the Shee I rebuilt from frame up. That including splitting the cases and all. Thx for the info though bro. Much appreciated. Thx. Mike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I am thinking about going with the same paint scheme as I painted my Shee. Let me know what you guys think. Can't seem to find the close up pics. The paint is actually metallic. It is Rustoleum metallic apple red.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Between this red and the metallic blue or metallic black maybe. They have a metallic copper that I thought would be different. Look mean with black. I have white plastics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Was just thinking metallic copper and black would be mean looking. I did a good bit of sanding on the frame today. Probably prime and paint it tomorrow.
 

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blue and white are my colors, probably always will be.....BUT copper is something i have wanted to do on a quad, or bike. it really has an awesome look to it, and it goes with almost any color you put next to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Got frame and subframe primed. I sanded everything entirely and wiped down with lacquer before priming. I read some sanded again after priming. What would be the benefit? More durable, smoother finish? Would you wet sand it and what grit?
 

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sanding the primer does two things, smoothes the base that you will be laying the topcoat on, and also creates a non glossy surface for the topcoat to better adhere to.
 
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