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With the extension or any other suitable rod that won’t leave anything in the combustion chamber (not a stick). As the piston rises, it will rise. The highest point that it sticks up is TDC. Your T in the window will probably be a little before that. The crank makes 2 revolutions while the cams make 1, so your cams determine which stroke the engine is on. This is why you roll the crank twice by hand to check your timing. If you only roll it once, the cams will be way off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
With the extension or any other suitable rod that won’t leave anything in the combustion chamber (not a stick). As the piston rises, it will rise. The highest point that it sticks up is TDC. Your T in the window will probably be a little before that. The crank makes 2 revolutions while the cams make 1, so your cams determine which stroke the engine is on. This is why you roll the crank twice by hand to check your timing. If you only roll it once, the cams will be way off.
So do I turn right to or left my manual don’t tell me what way to Rotate to put it in top dead center. I was rotating it right. But I just seen a YouTube video saying you supposed to rotate left. And do I put some in the hole we the spark plug tip fit in at.
 

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It’s not terribly important unless the cam chain tensioner is out, but you should be turning it counter clockwise when you’re on the left side of the quad (The side with the T in the window).
Yes, the plug should be out so there’s no compression and whatever you put in there needs to be at least 12 inches long so it won’t fall in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
It’s not terribly important unless the cam chain tensioner is out, but you should be turning it counter clockwise when you’re on the left side of the quad (The side with the T in the window).
Yes, the plug should be out so there’s no compression and whatever you put in there needs to be at least 12 inches long so it won’t fall in.
See so that why I think that’s the reason why it’s not starting I was turning clock wise. So I do this tomorrow morning and get back with you thanks for they help I’m trying get my baby back on the rode haven’t ride since three months smh
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
It’s not terribly important unless the cam chain tensioner is out, but you should be turning it counter clockwise when you’re on the left side of the quad (The side with the T in the window).
Yes, the plug should be out so there’s no compression and whatever you put in there needs to be at least 12 inches long so it won’t fall in.
So do I put it on the T Or I that’s like that. It to mark
 

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The “I”, the line next to the T needs to be centered in the window.
Think of the crank pulling the front side of the timing chain to pull the cams. You want the front end of the timing chain tight when you install the exhaust cam.
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The “I”, the line next to the T needs to be centered in the window.
Think of the crank pulling the front side of the timing chain to pull the cams. You want the front end of the timing chain tight when you install the exhaust cam.
Okay So I Did All The Steps Still Nothing But When I Put It On The Choke it Struggle To Try To Start Up. And When I Tried It On The Choke Some Mist Came From The Exhaust Side Of The Carburetor. And Made Like A Pressure Sound What Does That Mean.
 

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That’s a backfire through the carb. The choke isn’t an actual choke, it just dumps more fuel in. Are you sure the carb is clean, no idle circuit blockage and your petcok is giving you plenty of clean fuel?
Can you post a pic of both ends of the cams at TDC so we can see the sprockets and cam lobe position?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
That’s a backfire through the carb. The choke isn’t an actual choke, it just dumps more fuel in. Are you sure the carb is clean, no idle circuit blockage and your petcok is giving you plenty of clean fuel?
Can you post a pic of both ends of the cams at TDC so we can see the sprockets and cam lobe position?
Okay I send it when I get back to the bike
 

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So you have a wiring problem, not a mechanical no-start problem. Or both. 🤷‍♂️
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
I charged the battery it drain when I try’s to turn it on the relay start smoking when I tried it with the jump box on it
So you have a wiring problem, not a mechanical no-start problem. Or both. 🤷‍♂️
Okay So The Bike Had Stop Run Because My Starter Clutch Had Back Out Because I Didn’t Put On Lock Tight On The Screws. So When It Back Out it Messed Up My Stator. So I Put On A New OEM Startor. Wasn’t Getting Any Spark So I Had Brought A New CDI Box. I Start Get Spark. Then I had To Adjust My Clearance. Bike Never start after I did all this.
 

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Now we’re getting somewhere. Flywheel key wasn’t sheared, right? Coil reads out good, both primary and secondary windings? Check this thread out, lots of info in there:
 

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The plugs for the CDI are notorious for having burned or pushed pins, especially at the top corner of the upper connector. Unplug them and take a very close look that the pins haven’t backed out and are no longer making contact.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Now we’re getting somewhere. Flywheel key wasn’t sheared, right? Coil reads out good, both primary and secondary windings? Check this thread out, lots of info in there:
They Key Sit In There Perfect. I brought A New Coil To Forgot To Mention That. Not Sure What You Mean By Primary And Secondary.
 

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Testing the coil, like this:

Ignition Coil Resistance

(primary) 0.1-1.0 ohm (terminal to ground)

(secondary) 6,000-7,000 ohms (high tension - plug cap removed - to ground)
 
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