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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
8O How many of you Zriders would be interested in a High Performance High Flow airbox that helps keep water away from your filter?? PM me or post some ideas
 

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You'd probably have to have the water fly past the air filter, hit some sort of absorbant pad and then the air would change direction to go to the air filter.

Then again, that creates a slight pumping loss...
 

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lets see a pic of the 400ex on. anthoer person is building alumium airboxes to along with other aftermarket companies. i will probly have realy that much problems only racing mx with a k+n and a waterproof outerware
 

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you can cut holes in your stock airbox and get similar gains that the aluminum box "gives" you.

It's a bunch of hype as far as I'm concerned.
 

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The UM airbox was not without flaws according to the article such as the plastic connector for the filter if I remember correctly. Although they did believe that it was a good idea.

I just received my aluminum airbox from CFM-Performance and it was less than the UM one ($150.00) ! This thing is gorgeous! It has a aluminum tube welded in place for the air filter and intake to connect too. It is not just a straight piece of pipe either, it has been turned down on a lathe so that it has a pronounced lip for a better seal to the intake tube! There is also a drain hole already milled into the bottom(it looks like the stock collector might fit). It came with stainless steel hex bolts and locknuts to mount it in the stock mounting position. I also got the K&N filter and water resistant Outerware along with the Dynojet kit. Total was $250.00 delivered!

I really wish I had a dyno so that I could test the Z stock with the stock pipe and then test it with the CFM airbox and jetting and stock pipe so that I could have evidence of what it does. But I don't but I do know a few things about tuning engines and what I am after is a more bottom to mid spread on the torque and the way to do it is by using the stock exhaust and cramming more air into the motor. Hacking up a stock airbox IMHO is the joke as it is no where near as smooth and uniform around the airfilter as this CFM box is which is crucial for getting a better flow. The other thing that I think is wasted effort is this thing about drilling out the "peashooter"! LOL! I bet that if any of you that have done this where to Dyno your Z before and after you did this you would see that all you accomplished was ruining a perfectly good exhaust and making more racket. There is a reason the exhaust is designed the way it is and that is because it works and it took MUCHO MONEY and now we have the shade tree engineers out thinking the Factory! LOL!

I don't mean to be picking on you guys as when I was a teenager I put a glass-pack muffler on my stock 55 Pontiac and swore I had doubled the HP!

SmokinJoe take a look on ebay motors and look at CFM's airbox, I think that unless you made one and did a dyno test before and after and could prove your gains and your quality matched, it would be a waste of time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Gramps not to sound like an ASS but I put the CFM box to Shame on the power gain side of things not to mention how well my box keeps the water away from your filter.Somethin noone else is even tryin to do.And I do it with an open lid.My box lists for $140 and has a 6mo.warranty on craftsmanship
 

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You are not sounding like an ass because you answered my question. If your box for the Honda did so well then tell us what the dyno showed. And like others have requested a picture of your box would be nice to see! It's hard to sell something without a picture and dyno charts to spark someones interest.

When you say that your box put the CFM box to shame was the quad stock with the stock exhaust? Was the only other modification re-jetting? I am not familiar with the EX but on the Z I know from riding in muddy wet conditions that there is very little if any mud or water that gets even close to the top of the airbox. I know this because I wash my Z after every ride and remove the seat to make sure that it's clean under it and IMHO you would have to be crossing a creek that is up to the seat in order to get any water in the airbox. I think that even Suzuki new this or else they would have lengthened the air snorkel. Just my views but I would like to see what your box looks like and the dyno charts.
 

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QUOTE
Gramps not to sound like an ASS but I put the CFM box to Shame on the power gain side of things not to mention how well my box keeps the water away from your filter.Somethin noone else is even tryin to do.And I do it with an open lid.My box lists for $140 and has a 6mo.warranty on craftsmanship[/b]

post pics of your "airbox."...........
 

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The other thing that I think is wasted effort is this thing about drilling out the "peashooter"! LOL! I bet that if any of you that have done this where to Dyno your Z before and after you did this you would see that all you accomplished was ruining a perfectly good exhaust and making more racket.[/b]
Someone did dyno it before and after the "waste of effort" mod for around (IIRC) a 3hp gain.

It's not rocket science to remove a restriction in a fluid's path.

All things remaining consistent.
Stock for Stock, I was toe'n'toe with my buddies 400ex.
Stock Z vs Pipes+K&N+Dynojet 400ex, I was getting slaughtered
"Wasted time Mods" Z vs (same as above) 400ex, I'm doing the slaughtering
 

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QUOTE
The box in dirtwheels is a stock air box made of aluminum.Mine actually increases performance and keeps the water away from the filter[/b]
Do you have any dyno numbers to back it up? If it's that good, why not send one to Dirt Wheels and have them test it? I more apt to believe a magazine that has nothing to gain from testing a part than the ones who make it. If you ask me, decreasing your 0 - 55 by almost 2 seconds (what Dirt Wheels found with the U.M.) is damn impressive. I don't want to come off like I'm doubting you, but there's a lot of BS in prerformance part marketing these days.

Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
DirtWheels,while being a great mag,will not talk to ya if your not a big name company.As far as dynos go,the only thing you need for one of those is alot of cash.I guess that none of want real horsepower under the seat,so I will see you at the races.My tests were all conducted under real race conditions.I have 3 national GNCC riders who run my boxes,Frank Grimplin(2002 OPEN-A Champ)Mark Willman(Senior)and Chad Willman(4-Stroke Mod).........SEE YA AT THE RACES
 

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Well I just got done installing the CFM-Performance airbox in my Z and jetted the carb following the Dyno-Jet stage 2 instructions. 146 main, clip set in the 3rd notch, 3 1/2 turns out on the screw. Made sure everything was connected correctly turned the petcock to prime to fill the bowl and hit the starter with just a little bit of choke. FIRED right up and idled a little rough until it warmed up enough to take the choke off and then she just purred like a LION! LOL!

I did not get a chance to ride it though so I will have to wait until tomorrow to see if my first impressions are correct by the instant response of the throttle and a definate change in pitch coming out of the STOCK muffler! Since it was dark when I got her running I was able to tell that she isn't running lean as the header didn't show any red glow. I will do more testing and check to make sure that I have that nice gray color that shows up in the exhaust tip when you have everything dead on.

SmokinJoe, if you really want to make a part that would sell like hotcakes why don't you do some research on making a disc with vanes turned at such an angle as to induce laminar or swirling airflow into the cylinder. The best location for this disc would be the intake manifold. I believe that would be the ticket along with a better airbox like the CFM or yours!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Gramps you build it you have all the answers..... I have already had it out with the wiz kids at CFM. You have to watch how you SWIRL the air as you put it cause alot of the sanctioning bodies call that forced air induction.....NOT ALOUD!!! I have 2 desighns on the table that I will run locally to test.
 

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So does this mean that you're not going to offer the airbox? Personally, I'd like to hear the details about the box, and I'll agree w/ the others.....a pic would be nice. I'm interested as probably many others here are as well. Does your box design allow for a larger filter like the UMI? Keep us posted!

QB
 

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get some pics i would like to see some
 

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Carb/Intake boot length

I was looking ar my carb today and how it is positioned:
Has anyone tried different lengths of black connectiong tubing between the carb and the base of the motor? I think the theory is the longer the runner the better the high RMP and the shorter the more lowend.

I would figure you could change the length by 1/4 to 1/2 inch but I'm not sure.

Just wondering....
 

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Bonzai, you are talking about something that actually has a mathmatical formula but I couldn't find the manual I have that has it. Back when I was working on Triumphs the magic number was 9 1/2 inches from the center of the intake valve to the center of the carb needle. This would give you an overall performance boost. Since the Z motor is a short stroke and high compression I am not sure it would be of any benefit.

Along with a topless airbox running a K&N filter with correct jetting, the only other thing that I can see that would help would be to straigten out the connecting runner or at least be able to insert thin aluminum rings every 1 1/2 inches or so inside the runner to keep it from fluctuating.

SmokinJoe, it is really a shame that you badmouth all the other products THAT ARE ON THE MARKET and come up with LAME excuses! You are not much of a salesman so I wouldn't quit your day job thinking you are going to make a living selling something that you are not willing to show a picture of or show us Dyno charts proving your claims. East Coast ATV has a Dyno up there in PA and I am sure that they would rent you time on it! As far as a laminar disc being considered "forced air induction" it would have to exist on the airbox side of the carb as I had described it being on the engine side of the carb within the rubber intake manifold it would not be forcing anything as it's design would be to swirl the air that has already passed thru the carb.

Come on show us what you have in PICTURES! NOT BS!
 
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