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Discussion Starter #1
Started right up instantaneously about 35 times the day I bought it. Now when pressing the electric start it just clicks 1 time. Occasionally it will try to crank the engine but does not crank it hard enough to start. I have replaced the battery & the starter solenoid. Whats the issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Is it the starter itself? Is it the wiring between those components? Could it possibly be something else?
 

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Okay so it I hit the starter lightly with a hammer it tries to turn over. Does that mean it’s a safe bet that the starter is bad? BTW I know Virtually nothing about engines of any sort or the components it takes to make them run.
 

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Starter is probably full of rust. I doubt it could be electrical, it either works or doesn’t.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just got the starter off & broke down.
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It doesn’t appear to be anything obviously wrong inside the starter. But what do I know?
 

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Here’s a decent vid:

Also, the commutator (gold part) has a lot of carbon buildup between the bars. Need to clean that out by dragging a small screwdriver between them so they at least have a couple thousandths depth between them. Also scuff up the plates of the commutator lightly with Emory cloth so they are shiny to make good contact.

I haven’t seen the brushes, but I’m guessing they are worn a bit. If they are no longer flat and are worn into a crescent shape all the way across the surface, then they probably need to be replaced. Minimum brush measurement on all brushes is 6.5mm. If they are shorter than that, they will usually cause your problem. Check here:

Search our site for “starter rebuild” or “ starter brushes” and you’ll find lots of info.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Here’s a decent vid:

Also, the commutator (gold part) has a lot of carbon buildup between the bars. Need to clean that out by dragging a small screwdriver between them so they at least have a couple thousandths depth between them. Also scuff up the plates of the commutator lightly with Emory cloth so they are shiny to make good contact.

I haven’t seen the brushes, but I’m guessing they are worn a bit. If they are no longer flat and are worn into a crescent shape all the way across the surface, then they probably need to be replaced. Minimum brush measurement on all brushes is 6.5mm. If they are shorter than that, they will usually cause your problem. Check here:

Search our site for “starter rebuild” or “ starter brushes” and you’ll find lots of info.
thanks pal. It was indeed the starter. The brush was shot. I’ll be replacing the rear carrier bearings, housing, & spacer. They were new spares that came with it. & the rear bearings are shot. The chain also rubs & slaps the chain guard a lot & makes a ton of noise. Not sure if that chain has stretched or is just loose but it is a bit worn. Sprockets look descent tho. So I ordered a DID 520 o-ring chain today. I’ll replace that & the parts mentioned above. Anything else that I should be looking for while I got the ass end apart?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Also I have this big boxy aluminum oil tank that is mounted directly in front of the radiator. I can barely check the oil without removing plastics let alone change it. Thoughts on why it’s on here?
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Probably an aftermarket tank as the stock one tends to have problems with the drain plug stripping out.
The swingarm pivot bolt can also be a pain if you plan to take it out.
 
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Discussion Starter #10
Bike starts & runs ok but I’m suspicious that the carb needs cleaned. I know for a fact it hasn’t been cleaned in 5 years at least. My question is should I buy a carb rebuild kit with the gaskets, o-rings, nuts, bolts, & fasteners? Or should I just buy a new carb? If the latter is the better option I have been reading on here to go with an fcr 39mm carb (which requires a few other simple mods just to mount up). Thoughts?
 

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Definitely needs a cleaning. I clean mine several times a year. I would get the kit that has the seals and o-rings, including the float needle and seat.
FCR would be much better performance, but takes some money and modification to install. Nothing too difficult.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Check out this carrier bearing housing I just pulled off. Has a giant hole & a crack. Also the bearing were nothing but carbon dust & the spacer was stuck on the axel. Had to cut the spacer off with a cutting wheel
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It’s had a hard life!
 
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Discussion Starter #14
Tires are pretty bare & the rear tires aren’t matching. I want to get a set of ITP hole shots. Got a set of 4 right now for $214. But the fronts would be 1” lower in tire height than stock. Rear would be 1” wider in tire width than stock. By dropping front would it feel off? & Fronts I’m looking at are 21-7-10 the rears I’m looking at are 20-11-9.
 

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Probably won’t notice much of a difference.
 
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Discussion Starter #17
Just got the rear axel assembly, bearing & all that good stuff put back together. & tightened the chain. Night & day difference. It’s more responsive since the chain aint sloppin around. & the cornering is much smoother with the new bearings & housing. Just got the police called in me for tearing through my own yard. Neighbors must be jelly. Lmao
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Honestly I don’t really like the way this swing arm is built. Are the lone star swing arms any good?
 

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Just about any aftermarket swingarm is better than stock, but I never had a problem with my stock one. Hard to justify that hefty price tag when it isn’t broken.
 
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