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Discussion Starter #1
So just installed Barnett clutch.... plates and all.... for the life of me I cannot get the clutch pull right... won’t even hardly disengage the plates, still feels like it’s in gear but just barely dissengaged to where you have to push 10x harder than before with it in gear and clutch pulled in... I’ve done my perch, my cable adjuster, even the arm on the splined clutch arm.... everything’s maxed out and it’s still rough.... what’s the deal?

Was I supposed to oil the inside of the cover that holds the springs against the plate? But that doesn’t explain it... maybe the heavy duty springs? But no the clutch is pulled in and maxed out..


HELPPPP PLEASE
 

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Discussion Starter #2
It’s not been ran, so I have to break it in? I have a new gasket and all, haven’t even gotten to that yet because I’m afraid something is wrong... maybe I’m crazy and it just needs rode a few times to break it and loosen things up but idk it seems to not disengage properly
 

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It’s not been ran, so I have to break it in? I have a new gasket and all, haven’t even gotten to that yet because I’m afraid something is wrong... maybe I’m crazy and it just needs rode a few times to break it and loosen things up but idk it seems to not disengage properly
It’s sitting still and clutch cover off and not being rode or started I mean
 

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Discussion Starter #4
also does the last one or 2 have to be offset? In the smaller slots, or not? I didn’t... but with this 462 I have no idea if thatll cause me to slip again or not?...

Also I guess it just needs broke it... with lever and everything pulling all the tension I could move it in gear, I’ve finally adjusted where it seems to catch good but I won’t know until I ride
 

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I’ve never offset any of my plates, so I doubt that is your problem. Did you soak them in oil overnight before installing? That is required or it’ll burn up very quickly.
You should check the basket for wear. The plates tend to wear groves in the fingers of the basket so they actually have to twist a little to disengage. This can make the lever very hard to pull and make the clutch stay engaged.
Also, make sure the clutch and basket is from the correct model year (correct number of plates).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I’ve never offset any of my plates, so I doubt that is your problem. Did you soak them in oil overnight before installing? That is required or it’ll burn up very quickly.
You should check the basket for wear. The plates tend to wear groves in the fingers of the basket so they actually have to twist a little to disengage. This can make the lever very hard to pull and make the clutch stay engaged.
Also, make sure the clutch and basket is from the correct model year (correct number of plates).
The paper that came with the clutch kit said like 3 or 5 minutes, I know I soaked them for over 30 min- hr at least... it also said to LIGHTLY wipe them off, then install, I did just that.

After a few times engaging and disengaging it feels pretty normal to say. I also started it and ran it for a few and let it put itself forward a few times, then jacked it up and went through all the gears a few times.... seems to work well.
Hope it doesn’t burn up quickly, or I just dropped 160$ for nothing... then I’ll have a hell of a mess to clean out of the case when it does

EDIT: Might add I only soaked the fibers, not the metal plates themselves.. I left them dry. (Well they come with a light coat on them, I didn’t wipe that film off either) I know some things you have to wipe the film off, like new brake rotors on a vehicle, you have to clean the rust protector oil coat off before installing..... didn’t think it applied to this so I didn’t bother with it
 

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This was with it not running? That's not necessarily representative of what it will be like when it's running.
 

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The Kevlars might not need much of a soak. The coating on the plates probably should have been removed, but probably won’t hurt anything as the oil will dilute it quickly. Sounds like you’re probably ok. It’s messy, but I usually put everything together dripping with oil. Since it’s a wet clutch, too much oil on it is never a bad thing. I’d just change your oil within the next few hours of run-time.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The Kevlars might not need much of a soak. The coating on the plates probably should have been removed, but probably won’t hurt anything as the oil will dilute it quickly. Sounds like you’re probably ok. It’s messy, but I usually put everything together dripping with oil. Since it’s a wet clutch, too much oil on it is never a bad thing. I’d just change your oil within the next few hours of run-time.
This is exactly what I was thinking also but I just went ahead and done it “by the book”... should I change oil frequently with this new clutch “break in”? Like I would with an actual break it just not like heat cycles wise, but in hours...

I usually change every 2 hours maybe.. like 2-3 or 4 rides max.. which roughly totals to maybe 2 hours, give or take

This was with it not running? That's not necessarily representative of what it will be like when it's running.
Correct, I was just checking to be sure everything was right. For my clutch that was in it that I took out, I had moved my arm on the case inward for some reason, I believe I did it to have more cable length and try to reduce the slipping.... so I had to put the arm outward, towards the stock position.. but when I pulled it in it wouldn’t even move the pressure plate on the clutch. It would just barely start to move it pulled all the way in...

That’s what brought me to all this.. should’ve made that clear also, my bad

So I adjusted the cable, and my perch, all the way out and it seemed to just barely move it but actually moved it instead of before, then I kept tinkering and finally got it to where it could fully engage but it felt real “grabby” in gear... like you lightly pulled the clutch in until it just until it started to activate and could roll....

Figured I’d ask to get all the info I could, this will be the first new clutch I’ve installed on this bike, and the first carbon/Kevlar kit I’ve ever done
 

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Discussion Starter #10
When I had it running (approximately 15-30 minutes) shortly-ish after, & I had it pull itself, it pulled and disengaged fairly well... I done that a few times. Then jacked the rear end off the ground and let it spin freely and I went through all gears
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So first ride on new clutch, actuates good and smooth... little strong on the clutch lever pull, but nothing I’d complain about.. maybe woods riding a whole day I might..

She’ll pull wheels off the ground in 4th and 5th just giving it some throttle.... you couldn’t even get it to come off the ground before it slipped so bad.

No slipping in 3-5 anymore...

One last question, how long should I ride this to “break it in” and then change the oil? Like 1-2 hours? 1 hour? And then how often after,.... like every 1-2 hours for 3-5 ride days, then normal oil change intervals thereafter...? For example...
Never done a clutch in a quad like this, let alone Kevlar or carbon fiber (still not sure what it is.... but I got a Barnett Dirt digger sticker in kit, so maybe it’s a CF? Anyone know?)
 

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I would do one after an hour of riding just to take out any foreign debris and coatings from the plates. Regular intervals after that.
The harder pull on the lever is likely from the new, heavier springs.
 
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