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I will be getting this setup for My Z in a couple of weeks and I hope it is as great as Elka has claimed. I will post a review when I get it.
 

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You may want to check out the new rear shock from Custom Axis. Bill Ballance is using it on his GNCC Z400. The shock uses the stock linkage. Bill said his Z now rides as good as his pro-class R. Mine should be here in 2 weeks. I will give you a report.
 

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i wounder how much the shock is the linkage is $200
 

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The Elka rear shock is $700. A Custom Axis is $750.
 

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the rear shock from elka is 750 bucks, but that is for standard elka shock, the new long travel rear shock i was told will be close to a grand.

I swear these guys got us by the balls....
 

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i know wtf? 1200 for a arms, grand for shocks. we are really dedicated i guess.
 

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tainted glory, what a-arms are 1200 bucks????? most expensive one i seen was like 800 or so (unless you wanted crome or something)
 

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the roll design long travels are up in the $1000 range
 

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I will have the new link on my bike by wed. The shock also requires a new spring setup but no revalving despite what the ad says on pbs performance. The new setup gets rid of the ssd and puts on a true dual rate setup. The setup doesn't need the ssd because the link lowers the bike. I can tell you this, adding the elka to the rear was not a positive for me, the ride seemed harsh like to much compression dampening. My first race with it, (harescramble) I almost puked about 1hr and 20min into the race. I hope this helps.
 

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My fronts and rears came set up with the compression dampening turned all the way down. The fronts are great but the rear feels too stiff. It may be the fault of the swingarm or linkage though. When you lower the rear end 2 inches with the zps there doesn't seem to be much down travel left before you hit the bumper. I can pick it up almost to my chin before the wheels come off the ground though. With the link there will be a little more room before it hits the bumper. I'll keep you guys posted.
 

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I changed the spring on my stock (from a #425 To #300) It lowered the back about 2 inches. It rides a lot better but will bottom out some. Bill Ballance has ordered me a Custom Axis like he will be running on his GNCC Z. With the Axis, you gain 1.25'' travel but it lowered the back about 3 inches. With the stock tires, the top of the grab bar is 30 inches. The shock shaft is longer in the Axis so it can sit lower and not bottem out.
 

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from the sounds of it, it may be better just to keep the factory shock and have it rebuilt instead of buying an elka one....
 

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If you don't mind the tall ride height of the z, you could do that. The Z just handles so much better lowered 2-3 inches. It almost feels like you have +2 arms and axle.
 

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When you lower the stock shock, the shock shaft will be so short that it tends to bottom out easy. Now, you could get the lowering kit and then a shock rebuild and that would get you low and better ride.
 

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No matter how long the shaft is on the shock the bumper is still in the same place. All of the good aftermarket shocks add a little travel but the travel they are adding only counts if you jump high enough for the suspension to drop down to full extension of the shock. Once you get your new shock on try pushing down on the back of the bike until it hits the bumper. It only goes about 5 inches before it hits the bumper. That is what I call the "Effective travel". The lowering link lets the bike set at the same height but travel down another 1.5 to 2 inches before you find the bumper. (Brake caliper say hello to pipe) If I were to do it again I would probably just buy a Durablue lowering link and a softer spring for the stock shock. I only weigh about 160 though. If you are heavier you might stay the same or even go the other way. ACDC is right though, the bike handles so much better lowered a couple of inches.
 

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So does Bill get you a sweet deal on axis since you are a hometown boy? I wonder if I would get faster if I moved to Bowling Green? All of the fast guys seem to come from there. :D Let me know if you go to LBL any this summer, I am only 25 min from Turkey Bay. You should hit some midsouth hs races, you are right in the middle of all the races.
 

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QUOTE
No matter how long the shaft is on the shock the bumper is still in the same place.  All of the good aftermarket shocks add a little travel but the travel they are adding only counts if you jump high enough for the suspension to drop down to full extension of the shock.  Once you get your new shock on try pushing down on the back of the bike until it hits the bumper.  It only goes about 5 inches before it hits the bumper.  That is what I call the "Effective travel".  The lowering link lets the bike set at the same height but travel down another 1.5 to 2 inches before you find the bumper.  (Brake caliper say hello to pipe)  If I were to do it again I would probably just buy a Durablue lowering link and a softer spring for the stock shock.  I only weigh about 160 though.  If you are heavier you might stay the same or even go the other way.  ACDC is right though, the bike handles so much better lowered a couple of inches.[/b]
Cain, I am trying to say about what you said. The best way to lower the Z with the stock shock is to use a lowering kit. I weigh #130 and with a #300 rear spring, I only have about 1 inch of shock shaft travel when I am sitting on the Z. When it warms up, I will give you a yell about LBL. Yes, Bill helped me out on the Axis.
 
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