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If that was the case couldn't you just buy a higher pressure rad cap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·

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A higher pressure cap just raises the boiling point of it. Have you tried a coolant pressure tester. That will tell you if it's a small leak not letting vacuum draw coolant back to radiator. It does not take much of a leak. I think you can borrow a pressure tester from the parts store.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
UPDATE: So today, I topped off the radiator made sure the coolant was in between both marks on the overflow tank. Went for a spirited ride back in the woods for a good 1/2 hour. Keep in mind today was at least 85 degrees F. Got back to camp and saw the overflow once again has risen above the full line. So I decided to let out enough coolant within the overflow tank so that it was back at the full line. Took it for another spirited ride. This time the overflow stayed at the full line and never moved. I was cautious though listening in case it sounded like the engine was running to hot. I have one of those stick-on FX temperature stickers on my head and it never went over 200 degrees. Went for one last ride to later find out the level still hasn't moved. Just now after it has cooled off, I popped off the cap to see how low my radiator was. It was just about in between 3/4 and 1/2 full?

So now the question is, was it that after the installation of the big bore kit, the radiator only wants to be filled at about 3/4 of the way up because of the extra heat OR is my head gasket still leaking BUT since the level in the radiator is low, now it's just pushing air into the overflow instead of coolant? Tomorrow after work I'm going to go out and start the engine without the cap to see once if it gets hot, will the coolant level rise to the filler neck or not? Any ideas or input from any other members??
 

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I've done BBKs on 2 Z's and have always filled the radiator to the top and put the coolant to the line in the overflow tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Here's an update: At the last race this Subday, I made sure the coolant level was about an inch below the full line. By the end of the of the day, it was about an inch above the full line. It ran great and never missed a beat. Didn't finish where I wanted to but there's always next time. I've decided to knuckle down and change the head gasket. While I'm at it, I'm also going to throw a set of rings on it while it's torn down. We'll see what happens.
 

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I would try changing the overflow hose first..
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I would BUT to my knowledge, the hose holds pressure and vacuum. I blocked each end with my finger and blew/sucked on the other side of the hose. I could not detect any leaks. The one thing I did notice was when I got off the track that once I came to a stop the water in my overflow tank kept sloshing around for additional 30 seconds almost like there was air bubbling through the system. I did notice a lot of steam coming out the overflow hose too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
UPDATE: I went ahead and tore the engine apart last night. I can't really tell for sure but I'm assuming there was one water port that was getting pressurized from the compression. I was worried my steel sleeve slid further down into the cylinder but to my surprise it never budged. I'm still waiting for the new gaskets and rings to get here. This time I'm going to coppercoat the head gasket and torque the head bolts to 42 foot pounds as per other members suggestions. Hopefully this should solve it.

My one observation was for how short of a time this engine has been ran before being torn down again, there was a lot of carbon build up on the piston crown. I'm not sure if I can attribute that to possibly running rich or the leaded aviation fuel I am running OR maybe that's normal?. Back when I was running pump gas and nitropropane, the piston crown had very little carbon on it along with a nice brown surface. I'm debating whether or not to drop the compression back to 12.6:1 by using the 3 layered gasket or whether I should stick with the single layer gasket. I'm not sure whether or not I will be able to tell the difference power wise between the 2 compression ratios.
 

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UPDATE: I went ahead and tore the engine apart last night. I can't really tell for sure but I'm assuming there was one water port that was getting pressurized from the compression. I was worried my steel sleeve slid further down into the cylinder but to my surprise it never budged. I'm still waiting for the new gaskets and rings to get here. This time I'm going to coppercoat the head gasket and torque the head bolts to 42 foot pounds as per other members suggestions. Hopefully this should solve it.

My one observation was for how short of a time this engine has been ran before being torn down again, there was a lot of carbon build up on the piston crown. I'm not sure if I can attribute that to possibly running rich or the leaded aviation fuel I am running OR maybe that's normal?. Back when I was running pump gas and nitropropane, the piston crown had very little carbon on it along with a nice brown surface. I'm debating whether or not to drop the compression back to 12.6:1 by using the 3 layered gasket or whether I should stick with the single layer gasket. I'm not sure whether or not I will be able to tell the difference power wise between the 2 compression ratios.
Im having same issue did head gasket solve the problem
 
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