Cutting out the pea-shooter?!?!?!

6296 Views 30 Replies 16 Participants Last post by Corpsie, Jun 29, 2003

Zuki

Discussion Starter · Aug 20, 2002

Who has cut out the pea-shooter from the stock exhaust? I'm still waiting on the Dyno from DMC for their ALIEN pipe and exhaust. They said that their pipe initial dynos blew YOSHI out the water (as did TRINITY'S). Anyway, back to the subject. Read that a few ppl had cut it out of the stock pipe for a temporary slight improvement. I tried to do the same for mine, but after removing the end-cap, i found the spark arrestor and other restricting materials to be pressed in i think. I pounded till no end in a vice (careful not do damage the cap or its finish) to no avail. As far as the cutting, how EXACTLY did u do this. Speak to me in novice terminology, as if i were 15 yrs old, because i know DYCK about combustion engines or modifications of them. But i will learn. In-depth tools and instructions would be greatly appreciated. For now i'm just running it without the endcap and spark arrestor combo, but want the end-cap back on for aesthetics and protection.

Thanks in advance for your help!

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

G

· #2 · Aug 26, 2002

I've got a friend who cut out the spark arrestor. He did it with a dremel tool. I hope I spelled dremel right...hehe. Anyway, all he did was take the end-cap off and use a dremel to cut the spark arrestor off of the end-cap. It's sounds really cool...but I don't think it improves the performance at all. In case you don't know what a dremel is... http://www.sears.com/sr/mercado/searchall.jsp
go there...it's the first picture. They have a dremel kit for $70. Also, dremels come in handy for tons of other uses too.

Zuki

Discussion Starter · #3 · Aug 26, 2002

Thanks

Heh, thx crazie.

I shoulda replied and answered my own question. I got tired of waiting for responses and figured most of it out. I took a 1 3/8 holesaw to the end-cap (perfect fit) and drilled out the pea-shooter. Then after cutting the spark arrestor to get it out, i went ahead and did basically the same thing. But basically the same....a dremel-like tool and cleaned it out totally. No extra ponies, but it feels like it gives it a quicker rev on the low starting out in first for example, just a little better throttle response. Of course this could all be in my head, but it feels that way. Regardless, its only a temp fix till i can decide between trinity, DMC, and CT. DMC is promising about the same dyno results as ct came up with, but they havent been able to shoot me a dyno sheet yet. Getting ready to just give in and get the trinity i think! Thanks for the reply tho.

fasterz

· #4 · Sep 1, 2002

do you cut the whole hing sticking out(into the muffler) or just drill a hole in it some where

Zuki

Discussion Starter · #5 · Sep 2, 2002

1. Unscrew the 3 allen screws holding the endcap on (dont lose the small gasket between the endcap and muffler
2. Use the 1 3/8 holesaw and drill out the pea-shooter (drill from the outside of the endcap. I think if you're careful u could keep from getting what you drilled out from going inside into the spark arrestor.)
3. If you got the piece you drilled out, you can stop or continue.
4. Next i cut out the spark arrestor as far down as i could, then grinded out the rest. Either with a dremel or some other type of small grinder. That's actually the most time consuming part. When i get back off vacation this week i'll try and post a pic to give u a better idea. Doesnt help a whole lot, but i noticed a slight low end kick to it. Plus it sounds better. If you plan on getting a pipe within the next couple weeks dont waste your time, but if you're like me waiting on a couple other dynos, then go for it.

fasterz

· #6 · Sep 2, 2002

what is a hole saw?

Zuki

Discussion Starter · #7 · Sep 2, 2002

a holesaw is an attachment for a drill. In the center it has a "normal" drill bit for piloting your hole surrounded by a serrated circular device for cutting a hole. Go to www.sears.com and type holesaw in the search box. Find the whole kit and it's pretty self-explanatory. If you use it, its best to have some type of cutting fluid and remember to use the drill or drill-press at a LOW speed. High speed will induce melting and/or destruction of your bit and saw. It's easy to use, and really inexpensive. Just take your time, take your time, take your time. its pretty easy. If you have any more Q's just post em. If need be i can get on aim or icq or whatever.

sanojoe

· #8 · Sep 6, 2002

zuki: did you need to rejet? Did you find a way to uncork the body of the pipe?
sanojoe

Zuki

Discussion Starter · #9 · Sep 8, 2002

nah didnt have to rejet. but i didnt open up the airbox either. As far as the body goes, nah i didnt go that far into it. That would've required cutting the can and rewelding as far as i can tell, unless i could run across a 4"? holesaw. Just uncorking it though, gave it a little extra umph, and the sound is better.

sanojoe

· #10 · Sep 8, 2002

thanks zuki.
Anyone else had any experience?
sanojoe

Suzuki LTZ400

· #11 · Oct 12, 2002

QUOTE

Anyone else had any experience?
sanojoe[/b]

Yes, exactly the same as you did.

craZy400

· #12 · Oct 18, 2002

QUOTE

thanks zuki.
Anyone else had any experience?
sanojoe[/b]

the sound is better but it doesn't have the same response.

in the process of dial-a-jet, uni, outerwears lid cover, and drilling out tube in exhaust behind sparkie

Bergy

· #13 · Nov 4, 2002

I just did the mods that you speak of, and with rejetting to a 152, uni filter, air box lid and snorkel removal and removal of the pea shooter we are gaining a hair over 3 hp more on the dyno. My friends own a performance shop with a dyno and are currently R&Ding a new pipe design. I will post numbers as we get them. Going to start with a slip-on and go from there. Also toying with the idea of a carb change down the line.

Slipknot

· #14 · Nov 18, 2002

Make sure when you get a holesaw, that it will be long enough to go over the pea-shooter. The first one I bought was to short and just barely scratched the end cap. I went and bought a longer one and the pea-shooter drilled right out. I also cut out the spark arrestor, and even if there is no power gain, it sure sounds alot better.

Flyingbrian1

· #15 · Jan 3, 2003

Hey Luki, I called Ryan at Advantage performance distributing(I'm also a dealer for them) and he told me that the Alien exhaust(full) put 6-7 hp and 3-6ftlb to the wheels. I don't know but that that sounds HIGH to me but if that true I will have it soon.

coronakid

· #16 · Jan 3, 2003

Hey Zuki

If your gonna order the Trinity kit, give yourself some extra time. They are taking forever on shipping out their exhausts. Broken Promises!!!!

duffy

· #17 · Mar 17, 2003

I cut out the end cap and spark arrestor. Then about 5 or 6 inches in there is a plate with another small hole in it. I use a chisel to cut a cross pattern in it and then a large punch to lay the 4 pieces over. I got a K&N filter and adapter and my jetting seems to be great with a 25 pilot and a 162.5 main and 1 washer on the needle. It definately gave me more bottom end grunt.

Corpsie

· #18 · Mar 18, 2003

Duffy,

Do you have a digital camera? I'd like to see pictures of the cuts you put into that plate.

Biohazard1.2

· #19 · Mar 18, 2003

WHY?Re: Cutting out the pea-shooter?!?!?!

QUOTE

Who has cut out the pea-shooter from the stock exhaust? I'm still waiting on the Dyno from DMC for their ALIEN pipe and exhaust. They said that their pipe initial dynos blew YOSHI out the water (as did TRINITY'S). Anyway, back to the subject. Thanks in advance for your help![/b]

Why cut it out if you plan to get a full PERFORMANCE exhaust? Keep you stock exhausts "stock" for resale/warranty....take it off, put on the new exhaust...why butcher the stock exhaust?

THERE ARE SOME BAD IDEAS BEING PERPETUATED HERE

get whatever pipe YOU believe to be the best...you have to live with it, not the guru who tells you which pipe YOU should buy.

No regrets.

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MegaCrash

· #20 · Mar 27, 2003

Modifying your stock exhaust, removing or modifying your air box lid, and then re-jetting will give you good results for about $20.00 invested. Exactly the same results as a $200 slip on. Just don’t remove everything in the exhaust all at once because a complete loss of backpressure will actually cause you to lose power.
I cut 10 ¾ inch holes in the air box lid and filtered them with Poly filter media. Then I drilled 3 ¼ inch holes in the spark arrester. Re-jetted for the mods and am very happy with the results. I can run neck and neck with any slip on out there.

1 - 20 of 31 Posts

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