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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok here we go....did my first oil change on the Z today. drained the oil pan and the oil out of the crank case. i also took the oil filter out and put a new one in. i put a little more then 2 qts in the oil pan....havent checked the level yet...but i was reading somewhere that you need to add oil to the crank case too is this true. I do not want to go any further until i know I am doing this correct and is there anything im leaving out. I need to know ASAP thanks in advance. Also whatever this O ring stuff is for the filter I hope i did not mess that up cause i did not see a O ring so I just pulled the old filter out and put the new one in. This is also my first oil change on the bike you know the 10 hour thing.

Steve
 

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oil drips into the crankcase from the tank. don't worry about it, once you fire her up oil will flwo into the crankcase. you should double check the oil filter and make sure the o-ring isn't gone or pinched. the o-ring sits in a groove on the inside part of the cover (the one with the 3 screws) to prevent oil from leaking out. if this o-ring is missing or pinched you'll know right away when you start it cuz it'll pour out of the cover. good luck. if you have anymore questions just ask away, there's always someone to help here. btw, since you replaced the filter, it'll take more than 2qts. fire her up and let her run for a couple of minutes then check the oil level.
 
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ok here we go....did my first oil change on the Z today.  drained the oil pan and the oil out of the crank case.  i also took the oil filter out and put a new one in.  i put a little more then 2 qts in the oil pan....havent checked the level yet...but i was reading somewhere that you need to add oil to the crank case too is this true.  I do not want to go any further until i know I am doing this correct and is there anything im leaving out.  I need to know ASAP thanks in advance.  Also whatever this O ring stuff is for the filter I hope i did not mess that up cause i did not see a O ring so I just pulled the old filter out and put the new one in.  This is also my first oil change on the bike you know the 10 hour thing.

Steve[/b]
Steve, There is actually 2 orings there that you have to deal with. Manual says change them each time but it is not really necessary. Just check them. Be sure they are there and not damaged.... Also the new oil filter does not come with either oring. I keep an extra of small and large in my tool box just in case. There is a larger one that is between the filter element when it screws on and the engine. There is a small oring that clings to the inner end of the filter itself at times . The big one usually stays in place and if you lose it, damage it or forget to put it on you will have leakage from the filter. The one that is a bugger is the little oring..... IF you do not have that one in place you will see no signs like external leakage BUT you will not have the filtering as it was suppose to be. IF, if you are in doubt that the little oring is in place I suggest you drain your oil in a clean CLEAN container and then check for the little oring. After you are sure both orings are there seal her up and put that oil back in. Also filter has two different ends, be sure you put the correct end in first. Another point is do not overtighten that oil drain plug or the nuts on the cover where the filter is under.. See pic from Service Manual below.
 
G

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ok here we go....did my first oil change on the Z today. drained the oil pan and the oil out of the crank case. i also took the oil filter out and put a new one in. i put a little more then 2 qts in the oil pan....havent checked the level yet...but i was reading somewhere that you need to add oil to the crank case too is this true. I do not want to go any further until i know I am doing this correct and is there anything im leaving out. I need to know ASAP thanks in advance. Also whatever this O ring stuff is for the filter I hope i did not mess that up cause i did not see a O ring so I just pulled the old filter out and put the new one in. This is also my first oil change on the bike you know the 10 hour thing.

Steve[/b]
Forgot to mention. Z400 /KFX400 has a dry sump system. You MUST run engine for a few minutes, turn bike off THEN check the oil. If you check oil on the bike when it has been sitting there for awhile you will see oil low reading . Oil has gone into the sump where you cannot read it's height.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
hey guys thanks for all the help everything is done now...it had a funny smell when i started it up...but i think that was from the oil on the motor itself cause that damn oil filler is so hard to get to with a basic funnel....also is it just me but when you guys did your first oil and oil filter change did it feel any faster....it is probably all in my head?

Steve
 
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hey guys thanks for all the help everything is done now...it had a funny smell when i started it up...but i think that was from the oil on the motor itself cause that damn oil filler is so hard to get to with a basic funnel....also is it just me but when you guys did your first oil and oil filter change did it feel any faster....it is probably all in my head?

Steve[/b]
Yup, that filler hole is hard to get a straight shot at. Stop by an AutoZone,
PepBoys or similar automotive stuff store and pick up a cheap ($1.50-$2.00) transmission filler thing. It's a plastic funnel with a flex tube on it. I siliconed around the flex hose exit point in the bottom of the funnel so it is sure to not leak there. The thing is a cheapie but works well. You could make your own with an old funnel, some plastic tubing and some silicone.
Anyway, really makes the oil fill procedure easier. OH, no it's not faster. As far as your getting help here......... well take the time here and elsewhere to share your knowledge.... like now you can speak up and talk about your oil change and stuff and how to be careful with the 2 orings.
 

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oil change tip

I removed the inspection (flywheel?) cap off the left side(top) of the case with and allen wrench and added 1/2 quart there so it didn't start dry. I'm not so sure the oil will flow with gravity into the case very easily...so I wanted to be safe.

It seemed to work fine and yes my engine has woke up and revs a little farther and smother than it did before.

BTW....my ASS Dyno says removing the screen and nothing else has given me smother top end revs and just a slight more mid range. I can pull the front end up in 3rd a little easier than before. Next is jets & and a trick Airbox tweak I'm working on...heeeheheheh
 

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When reading the dipstick, do you screw it all the way in the hole, then unscrew it out and then read it? Or do you read it with out screwing it in the hole? Also, How much oil should i put in when i replace it? And lastly, do i have to put a little oil into the inspection hole like banzai did. And if i do, do i subtract that amount from what i should put into the oil tank? Thanks
 

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Read the dip stick WITHOUT screwing it in.

I added about 2.5 Quarts +- I think.

Another tip, incline the front end up about 1 foot to get all that oil out of the case and note how much metal dust is stuck to that drain plug magnet also. I had just a little in my first change. I'm hoping much less if any shows up on my next change.
 

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Hey banzai, thanks for responding. You say you put 2.5 quarts but in the service manual picture (above) it says when doing an oil and filter change you should put in 2.2 US qts. Should i put 2.5 or 2.2, i dont want to put too much and have my oil tank explode like that before. Also, do i put all of the new oil in the oil tank, or do i have to put some in the engine case too? Thanks alot for your help, FlzRider
 

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Buy a little cheapie funnel and about 2 feet of 3/8 i.d. clear tubing, heat up the end of the clear tubing with a heat gun and jam it onto the funnel. Instant Z-400 no-mess oil filler set-up. Route it down through the little triangle shaped cut out left side next to the headlight for a straight shot at the filler bung. After a complete drain and filter change, pre-measure 2 quarts of oil and dump them in and let it drain out of the clear hose. Start engine for a minute or so and then pour .2 more quart of oil in and you are done. Easy and clean with no mess. Works for me! :D
 

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Why did you put 2 quarts in, start it, and then put .2 quarts of oil more? I was thinking of putting 2 quarts in the tank and about .5 quart in the case. :?:
 

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Yep, that's what I do. I fill the resevoir up to level, takes exactly 2 U.S. quarts. I did not see any place to refill the crankcase as it is a dry sump. It only takes a second or two to fill the filter and crankcase after start up and I do not rev it at all for a minute or two either. After a few minutes of idling I shut it down and recheck oil level and top off as needed a few minutes later.Mine seems to take about 2 quarts and 10 ounces {2.3 quarts} So far, so good! :)
 
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