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I bought a dynojet kit for my quad which was stupid since I needed to go to a 170 main which as you all know does not come with the kit. Well I have not changed the needle yet and was wondering if it will make a big enough difference to p!ss with. I'm running a r4 full system with airboxlid off a 170 main @700ft in currently 25-35 degree temps. Thanks
 
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I bought a dynojet kit for my quad which was stupid since I needed to go to a 170 main which as you all know does not come with the kit. Well I have not changed the needle yet and was wondering if it will make a big enough difference to p!ss with. I'm running a r4 full system with airboxlid off a 170 main @700ft in currently 25-35 degree temps. Thanks[/b]
I have my feelings on this.. read here http://www.z400central.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=6152
:
 

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Doing the needle is very easy.

1. take off your gas tank (which doesn't leak when you take it off)
2. undo the 2 (?) screws on top of your carb
3. pull out the diaphragm/needle assembly
4. use needle nose pliers to pull out the needle
5. do needle stuff (based on instructions)
6. put it back together
 

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Yes, it most likely will. But, I would bet you wouldn't notice the difference unless you dropped the main to about 160-165. 170 sounds WAYY to fat even for NO airbox. Didn't mention your mods, so I assume it's the basic no lid, filter and pipe.

Doesn't hurt to try. To get the tank off I just take off the left side plastic and tank cover and it comes out.. (after unhooking the gas line and the other line from the petcock to the carb).

Down to about 10 minutes for a needle change. About the best you can get I assume. (On the R, it was 2 minutes tops, main jet change was 1 at the most)...

wish we could have folks take pics of their plugs to get an idea of how things are running. :) Especially the ground strap. I'd like to see how many others show that the plug may be too hot.
 

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The Dynojet needle has different taper to it, and is far superior to a stock needle, the stock needle is way to lean, because it is the same needle that is used on the DRZ 400s that is a street legal bike and must be jetted lean to pass emissions standards for a street bike. If you run the stock needle you have to run richer Main an pilot jets to compensate for the lean needle. When you use the Dynojet needle your optimum jetting will be with smaller main, and pilots. For example, I was running the stock needle with a 150 main, and 27.5 pilot with a 3x3" hole cut in the top of my airbox in my DRZ 400s. It ran better than stock but could still get better. I put in a Dynojet needle, on the 4th clip, with a 140 main and 25 pilot, and 2.5 turns out on the fuel screw, and had a power gain over the 150/27.5 setup that was equal to the power gain I got when I went from the stock jetting w/ closed airbox to the 150/27.5 combo. I put a Yosh Exhaust on and ended up with a 145 main, and the 25 pilot which was perfect. I still wanted more so I switched to a FCR39 and gained another 4 hp. Keep in mind that this was on a DRZ400s, and the LTZ airbox may be less restrictive than mine. And I live at sea level. Of all the motor mods that I have made to my bike the $59 Dynojet kit gave the 2nd biggest improvement behind the FCR39. It is $60 well spent IMO
 

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Fastmike,

Does the Alba needle have the same taper as stock? I asked when I ordered but the dude on the phone didn't know. I'm assuming it's not exactly the same... Comparing the needles it seems shorter as well.
 

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Watch for that itty bitty teeny tiny o ring next to the diaphram for the needle slide. Drop that one and you may wait for a while before its in stock. :cry:
 

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I Just got the needle & jets I ordered from ALBA.
when I ordered them the parts guy told me their needle is the same as Dynojets, but their jets are the same as Mukuni.
I found that strange.
I even called back and talked to someone in service and he told me same thing.
When I change my needle today, I will let you know if they look much different.
 

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Ya, that little oring is a bugger... most probably don't even know it's there...hehe.. I knew it would be because it's basically the same carb as on my Fz1 (but 4 of them). Also same as on the raptor.

But, when I did the carbs on both my buddies raptors neither of them had the oring, and they are running fine.

Either way, you should be able to find something suitable at a good hardware/plumbing/heating store.
 
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