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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So i have searched and seen alot of threads on removing the blob. My question is what would a total parts list be for new bars and blob removal? I.E clutch lever, killswitch and so on. Would i need longer stering stem? Clamps?

Also i see alot on A-arms like +2 +1 a arms what does this mean? Extended further on one side than the other?

Sorry for sounding so noob but thanks for any responses
 

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You would need 7/8 bars unless you get a new bar clamp. A tether kill switch, Something like a billet FLY dirt bike kill switch. ASV F3 levers. You dont need a longer stem. As for A Arms +2 is 2 inches wider +1 is one inch forward
 

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If your just trying to remove the blob, then you really only need a dirt bike style kill switch (start button), some hand tools, and wire splices (18-22 gauge IIRC).

If you want to go farther you can add a kill tether....then you would need that also. It really all depends on what you want to add and take away from them.

The first number (+2) in the a arms is how much longer (wider stance) they are over stock. The second number (+1) is how many inches forward they will position your hubs (longer stance).
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
You would need 7/8 bars unless you get a new bar clamp. A tether kill switch, Something like a billet FLY dirt bike kill switch. ASV F3 levers. You dont need a longer stem. As for A Arms +2 is 2 inches wider +1 is one inch forward
Thanks on clearing up the a-arm question lol.
Im looking at pro taper contour bars 1 1/8 i believe. So im guessing new clamps.
Why would i need the tether killswitch and the fly killswitch? I also plan to run my reverse to the lever also does the asv f3 cover that?

Lastly, will i need a pull choke?
 

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When you remove the blob you need to replace the stater button. So the FLY kill acts as the starter button and the tether acts as the kill switch. OH i forgot about the pull choke you will need also
 

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yup, forgot about the pull choke. you will need one of those also. the fly kill switch would be used in lieu of the dirtbike kill switch...but its like $60 i think. the other is less than $10 on ebay. the tether would be to actually cut the motor off...or you can just turn the key like i do. if you want to get new bars and they are oversized, then yes you will need new clamps also.
 

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When you remove the blob you need to replace the stater button. So the FLY kill acts as the starter button and the tether acts as the kill switch. OH i forgot about the pull choke you will need also
dang you! you keep beating me to the post haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
No you would need a Dr. D reverse lever
Is that the only brand i can do it with? I really like asv levers
So i dont need to have a tether kill since i can just use the key to kill the engine?
So i need a pull choke
Clamps
New clutch lever
Fly kill switch
The actual bars, thats it?
 

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Yea im not sure if there is another reverse lever out there for the Z. But yea what you have listed is all you would need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So the stock reverse cable will reach to a left hand clutch/hotstart? Or is that the reason i'll need the dr.d? Sorry if im asking too much i just want to order everything once and do it right
 

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Lol its all good. No it wont reach i was saying you could leave it in the fender where it is stock or you can get the Dr. D and move it to the handle bars
 
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