Looks a little better, but the metal is still exfoliating and will give you problems in the tank and carb. I’d spend the $20 on a new cap, but that’s just me.
I think I'll first try to start it up again, then and if everything goes well I'll change it. There are still so many things that can go bad...
By the way I cleaned the tank and a bit, externally, the petcock...they seem fine...as soon as I have a bit more time I'll try to fix the carburators spring..one little step at a time, and with your help, I hope to start it up again...
That one you aren’t sure about is your choke cable. Take it out with a wrench, I think 12mm). It’s plastic, so be careful. There should be a spring and plunger on the end of the cable. They often get corroded and stuck in place.
That one you aren’t sure about is your choke cable. Take it out with a wrench, I think 12mm). It’s plastic, so be careful. There should be a spring and plunger on the end of the cable. They often get corroded and stuck in place.
Hi, the throttle problems seems pretty fixed.. sprayed wd40 in the spring opening the main valve and then the motor oil, while keeping opening and closing, and now seems fine!
I wanted to fix the chocke now, I'm not an expert but I think it never worked fine... I tried opening the area where the chocke cable arrives to the carburator (in the video I already closed it back) but I can only see a spring and the cable, can't understand how to remove it....
As I said I think it never worked properly, it's not like the rest that worked fine before I left the ATV unused for 6 years.
Ah and I cleaned the jets too, there was just a screw in that area of the carb a bit rusted but the rest was good, well some jets were clogged but I unclogged them with a needle.
So if you can in anyway help me for this chocke, with an exploded view maybe...
As I mentioned, the metal plunger on the end of the cable corrodes and gets stuck in place. Disconnect the housing and soak it in WD-40 for several days then try to free it up. You may need to pry on it enough that you’ll break the cable before it comes out. Before you go that far, maybe pour some chem dip in there to try and eat the corrosion? If it won’t come out, you’ll probably need a new carb.
Looks fine, just needs to be cleaned up. All of that dirt and corrosion in the carb that was making it stick will end up in the float bowl and most likely clog your pilot jet. You’ll need to drain the bowl a few times and clean it out.
Yes, I saw that looking at the little hole where the choke cable ended by pushing the choke lever the "inner" part of the choke cable was revealed, so I think that somehow more air could flow in. When I pulled the chocke lever back to normal position from that little hole you could not see the inner part of the cable anymore, so it looks like it closed it properly....
Anyway I mounted everything back and tried to start the ATV via push start (my father with a car pulling me), but it didn't start. Obviously I put in new gasoline in the tank. The sound of the motor was "good", the air from the pipe was compressed as when the atv was working properly, the engine somehow got a bit little warmerbut it did not start..
So I guess no spark? The battery is fine, altough when I try to start it even if the lights of neutral, reverse etc light up it does not click or crank at all (as you can see from some of my first videos)
I’m assuming you’re in neutral with the clutch pulled in and kill switch on. You need to jump the 2 main posts of the solenoid and it should crank. That tells you the starter isn’t frozen.
If that works, apply 12 volts to the smaller black/yellow wire that goes into the solenoid. If it doesn’t crank, then the relay is bad.
As far as not starting when pulled, is the float bowl filling with fuel? Spark plug wet? Checking for good spark? Test for compression? Valve clearance within limits?
Great news, jumping the relay made it and the atv start...bad news, it loses gasoline only when turned on from the hose starting from the bottom of the carb...
My fried thinks that maybe when we unglogged some of the jets with a needle we enlarged them too much, altough we did it gently... anyway your opinion?
Hi guys,
So I have an '03 Z400 and the frame is original I think (the metallic Blue color), and it has not been gusseted to prevent cracking.
Anyone know how to go about getting hold of a budget-friendly Gusset Kit? I saw a post on here from a while ago with someone suggesting the one by B.A.R.E...
Well my rear carrier went on my trail machine so I have it all apart, my shocks also need servicing as well so I am doing a rebuild. I picked up a couple parts quads with houser parts and wondering what your thoughts were on which front end to use. Now would be a good time to add the BARE gusset...
Just trying to find out which is more preferred .. between +2+1 a arms, +3,+3+1, or long travel a arms? (Aren’t LT +3? Or have I misread some things?)
And what brand? I’ve been leaning towards long travel JD’s with stage 3 & 4, or 4, Elkas (kit) .. around 2,500 or so... I know a lot of people...
Hey guys, I’m trying to look for some suspension for my sons 04 KFX400, we have flexxbars, steering stabilizer, slip on, power lid, and some others, but he needs some suspension upgrades. We are wanting to do more XC racing for this up coming year so we aren’t looking for a wide a arms plus 2...
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