Suzuki Central Forum banner

61 - 80 of 81 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #62 (Edited)
Ok, so fixed the fuel leakage, it was the stuck valve of the photo above... I did use the ATV for about 20 minutes moderately and then...the clutch cable broke..
Will have to change it I guess.. it broke even the hose a bit on the curve...do I need to replace it all?
49412
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,787 Posts
Those jets look filthy, should be shiny. I would get new ones, cost maybe $6 each from a shop. Your leaking problem is probably the float needle seat. Either some gunk is stuck on it holding it open or the seat has dry rotted and needs to be replaced.

Yes, replace the entire clutch cable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #64 (Edited)
Those jets look filthy, should be shiny. I would get new ones, cost maybe $6 each from a shop. Your leaking problem is probably the float needle seat. Either some gunk is stuck on it holding it open or the seat has dry rotted and needs to be replaced.

Yes, replace the entire clutch cable.
Ok, will look at new jets but for now there are many other things to fix...and by the way I didn't find them singularly on internet, I found dynojet kits but from 70$. Don't you think that maybe I could let mine stay in solvent and they could clean a bit? Like winegar for the rust of the gas cup, or Coca-Cola or diesel ..? And the leakage problem was definitively fixed, we forced the small piston closing the hole where the gas comes in the carb, cleaned it and the hole and applied a bit of motor oil, no more leakage at all. Before it was stuck in open position...The motor seems to run fine, like has always run or better, maybe a bit lean...

For what regards the clutch cable, found one on Amazon for like 19$ shipped,
amazon link , could it be fine? It's Amazon Italy, just look at the photos and give me a quick guess if it's OK...should be at 99% since it's stated that is OK for my Model Year...

I have to buy the solenoid too, I think, using always the screwdriver is a bit of mess :) :) Do you know the part number, have any suggestions? Do you think it's fixable?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,787 Posts
There’s a product called Chem-dip that works wonders, or pouring a little SeaFoam in the gas tank would also help. They need to be spotless to run right. If they are varnished on the outside, then the actual jet holes that do the fuel metering probably aren’t the right size. You’ll be tuning the carb for no reason and it probably still won’t run right. Any motorcycle shop sells individual jets. Might be a cheaper option than buying cleaning products that may or may not work.

That clutch cable should work if it says it is for your Z.

When it comes to solenoids, use the factory Suzuki solenoid. The Chinese knockoffs usually don’t last long in my experience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #67 (Edited)
Solenoid fixed by beating on it gently with an hammer, new clutch cable on its way...

One thing that I would like to test is the cooling fan, I'm not sure if it's working or not.
How would you do to test it?
It ran fine before I left my atv unused for 6 years...
I could just leave my atv idling or at 1/4 of throttle for like 15 minutes and see if something happens, but I fear that doing so could damage the engine...
49430
 

·
::3 Pump Chump!::
Joined
·
3,046 Posts
wiring diagram and pin our for 12v and your golden.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,787 Posts
I'm thinking about trying with the other one, is it possibile to do the same job working on the rear right hub?
I don’t think so. If I remember right, the brake rotor hub is a larger diameter than the rest of the axle, meaning it all has to be removed from the left side.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #71
Hi There!

So I solved various isses..the fan was probably working but to be more sure I made a mod and used an on/off switch, so now(in the summer) it's always turned on!
Don't have much worries about the battery drainage, because I always recharge the battery after every ride.


So now there are 2 ore at least one problems....

The first is that the carburator kept leaking fuel from the exhaust placed under the carb bowl.
So I ordered a carb repair kit and replaced jets,rings and the little floating piston who makes sure that the fuel line closes when the bowl is full. I replaced everything I could.
After replacing these part the fuel leakage in now almost not happening at all, for example before it kept leaking even when the engine was idle, now when the engine is idling at low rpms in neutral gear it is zero. But I notice that when riding, expecially when accelerating and releasing the throttle, that some drops of fuel still come off from the hose starting under the carb bowl...

I'm wondering if that's normal? How much is OK? If there's that hose starting under the carb bowl maybe it's normal, it has been engineered to drop a bit of fuel from time to time...

Below some images of the installation:
49496


49497
49498
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #72
And the second problem, and this one is a problem almost for sure, is that I think that I have to change my swingarm bearings...but I want to be sure of it before buying anything.
So the problem is that it seems there's something broken between my swingarm and the frame, I even made a video in which my father keeps rising up the atv from the rear handbar, and after rising it up like 4-5 centimeters a strange noise occurs..

I will post a video below:
broken swingarm bearings?

and should I buy something like this to fix it, right?
replacement kit
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,787 Posts
Could be swingarm bearings or the lower shock link broken. Have to see which is moving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter #75
Hi dear american friends! It's me, and guess what? I've done another damage to the Quad :(

This time my fault has been not putting a threadlocker, like the blue from loctite, on the bolts of the rear sprocket! So they came out one after the other and I didn't notice anything, until the last one came out! I don't think to have made damages to the chain or the rear sprocket or the front pinion or else, but now I'm left with just 3 bolts over 4. The thread where the bolts go in seems pretty good...now I've bought a blue threadlocker, I will not do the same mistake again!

My question now is..well I've found the bolts on the internet, part number 09103-10354, but in Italy buying 4 of them is pretty expensive, like 45 $ including shipping costs.
I've also many genral spare bolts thread 10 left around, my question is, will they be compatible? The thread is the same? From an eye view they seem exactly the same, obviously I would have to cut these ones at the appropriate lenght (circa 1.6 cm)...but I fear of stripping the original female thread if they are not 100% the same.

I've attached, as always some images...
thanks
49702
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,787 Posts
I have no way of knowing what the shear strength is on those bolts, but I would bet it isn’t the same. Not something I would trust in a sprocket. At least find grade 8 bolts from a hardware store.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,533 Posts
Try a nut from the hardware store on your bolt to confirm thread pitch and size while there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Emiliano Fraticelli
61 - 80 of 81 Posts
Top