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Over the years I've seen multiple engine failures because of a plastic oil pump drive gear. You really have no warning as the engine runs fine....until the bearings start to freeze up or the cams seize. I've experienced hard shifting and more valve train noise than normal. You really have to be tuned into the sounds your engine makes to notice this. Here's an idea for you guys. Some of you know this but I've made this a standard practice every ride or two. There's a 10mm bolt on the head right above your tensioner. This is a oil
Pressure port. This bolt is by itself and only serves the purpose of checking to see if oil is going to the head. This check is super simple and well worth the small effort.

Get a rag. Loosten this bolt. Don't remove it but make sure you can turn it by hand to remove it. Place the rag under it and kinda cup it so it doesn't squirt past the rag. This is not high pressure oil so don't worry about making a big mess. Crank the engine. Let it run for about ten seconds to make sure oik is primed to the topend. Unscrew bolt slowly. Once ever so slightly out, put it back in quickly. You should have had a small amout of oil come out into your rag. If its nothing or barely a drip, you've got a problem. If you get a little stream of oil, your good! I highly recommend doing this more often than not. The washer that seals the bolt is reusable. If it makes you feel better, pick up one or two of the washers from your dealer for future checking.

I've used a regular washer in a pinch with a small amount of sealer on the threads and it didn't leak a drop. Hopefully this will save someone's engine!
 

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goot tip thanks! Someone should sticky this!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ever think about putting in that oil pressure check gauge?
Yes. I have the stuff to do it. Just never got around to it. When my crank came in, I was in a mad rush to hear this thing breathe to life. So much so that I didn't put the warning light in nor did I put the decompression in. I didn't like the look of the decompression either so that was two things working against that. :lol
 

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Bump. Just want everyone to see this.
 

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Great tip! Can this plastic pos be replaced with a billet/aluminum one? Don't know if it would damage anything else in there by doing this or not?
 

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Great tip! Can this plastic pos be replaced with a billet/aluminum one? Don't know if it would damage anything else in there by doing this or not?
We were going to have titanium ones made with a group buy. A couple people brought up that maybe it was made to shear just in case something got caught in it to keep from possibly damaging anything else. Then most people started having second thoughts. So I just dropped the group buy.
 

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Bump - I know this is a old thread but I wonder if anyone has pics of the oil pressure fitting and the testing equiptment.
I wonder how much they are and where they are obtained from

Interesting and most important pressure check. thanks for posting this info KFXguy.

Just so im not cluttering this sticky Ive done some research and found
these part numbers for the testing equiptment.

Suzuki part number 09915-74510 and Adaptor pn 09915-70610
 

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that's a great tip kfxguy, this will save so much z engines in the future.
myself i have a test gauge, but your way also works.
i have seen this thread before, but it's never enough to bump it
 

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Post some pics of the testing equiptment and fitting

I did further research and the oil pressure is to be 40-140kPa (5.8-20.3 psi at 3000rpm)
I find that to be quite a broad measurement.

Pic from glock. Nice service tools set.

 

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Over the years I've seen multiple engine failures because of a plastic oil pump drive gear. You really have no warning as the engine runs fine....until the bearings start to freeze up or the cams seize. I've experienced hard shifting and more valve train noise than normal. You really have to be tuned into the sounds your engine makes to notice this. Here's an idea for you guys. Some of you know this but I've made this a standard practice every ride or two. There's a 10mm bolt on the head right above your tensioner. This is a oil
Pressure port. This bolt is by itself and only serves the purpose of checking to see if oil is going to the head. This check is super simple and well worth the small effort.

Get a rag. Loosten this bolt. Don't remove it but make sure you can turn it by hand to remove it. Place the rag under it and kinda cup it so it doesn't squirt past the rag. This is not high pressure oil so don't worry about making a big mess. Crank the engine. Let it run for about ten seconds to make sure oik is primed to the topend. Unscrew bolt slowly. Once ever so slightly out, put it back in quickly. You should have had a small amout of oil come out into your rag. If its nothing or barely a drip, you've got a problem. If you get a little stream of oil, your good! I highly recommend doing this more often than not. The washer that seals the bolt is reusable. If it makes you feel better, pick up one or two of the washers from your dealer for future checking.

I've used a regular washer in a pinch with a small amount of sealer on the threads and it didn't leak a drop. Hopefully this will save someone's engine!
Great tip man thx!
 

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We were going to have titanium ones made with a group buy. A couple people brought up that maybe it was made to shear just in case something got caught in it to keep from possibly damaging anything else. Then most people started having second thoughts. So I just dropped the group buy.
It was deff designed that way for a reason. Not just to cut costs, because raw material costs are most likely very similar (basically negligible in the grand scheme of manufacturing parts for this motor).
I'm guessing a plastic gear will transfer less harmonic vibration to help avoid the fragile oil pump gears from shattering at high rpm.
That's just my guess thou, I'm an M.E. But have no design experience with this particular design of oil pumps....
 
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