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be careful drilling it out, the existing hole doesnt work too well as a guide hole since its soft aluminum :angryfire: im doing it in the lathe now.

other than that i have everything done, i didnt make the latch a wheel, i just rounded the corner where the two grooves used to be
 

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I used a 12mm tap in the existing hole and it cut right through. no problems from the existing threads. It actually cut them out.
I just rounded the latch also. works very well.

I dont see the chain getting slack at high rpm and causing problems, withthe mcct.
I just raced the crap outta mine tonight, with no issues.
Nobody else has had a problem I know of.
 

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yeah i was in a hurry and effed everything up. the existing hole is perfect for a 12 x1.75 tap i just didnt realize it at the time. my 13/32" drill was missing and i was guessing that was the right size (looking for a 0.4" drill), so i grabbed the next biggest size and it just barely scraped out the inside. then i read the packaging on the tap and it said to use a 13/32" but it was too late and the hole was a bit crooked.

but no worries now all i have to do is re-tap my new one, and countersink for the o-ring. Thanks cap! :z400rules:
 

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Mine had a countersink.. I teflon'd the threads too.
 

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mine was countersunk too, but it looks like it needs to be deeper so the oring doesnt get torn apart. i might just use the washer thats on there too, i cant imagine much oil slinging out of there
 

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QUOTE (Camaro1976 @ Dec 14 2008, 11:20 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=717358
yeah i was in a hurry and effed everything up. the existing hole is perfect for a 12 x1.75 tap i just didnt realize it at the time. my 13/32" drill was missing and i was guessing that was the right size (looking for a 0.4" drill), so i grabbed the next biggest size and it just barely scraped out the inside. then i read the packaging on the tap and it said to use a 13/32" but it was too late and the hole was a bit crooked.

but no worries now all i have to do is re-tap my new one, and countersink for the o-ring. Thanks cap! :z400rules:[/b]
Hey Kevin,

For future reference.

Tap Drill Chart

Dan
 

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QUOTE (Camaro1976 @ Dec 15 2008, 03:33 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=717360
mine was countersunk too, but it looks like it needs to be deeper so the oring doesnt get torn apart. i might just use the washer thats on there too, i cant imagine much oil slinging out of there[/b]
It`s not the slinging of it that does it...it`s the pressure created in there that does it. Both of my APE MCCT`s seep a VERY SLIGHT amount past the O-rings...just enough that they get a little residue/dampness on the threads after awhile.
 

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I got a question on this topic. Instead of rounding the latch off to be a wheel can you just dremel the click spots on the rod smooth so that the latch has nothing to click into? Just seems easier.

Also if you just use a 12mm x 1.75 tap will it go all the way in? I know the existing hole isn't threaded in very far so at a certain point the hole would become smaller and the tap will be harder to use from cutting into more metal. Also approx. what length bolt do you have to use? And this was never answered. Is it necessary to remove the head off the plunger?

Does it need to come off because the rod slides out the back side and not in towards the motor? If so then I would not have to remove the latch, just the head and smooth the click notches down on the rod correct?
 

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seems like maybe the latch could wedge itself against the rod even without the notches cuz it's got those little teeth on it.
It is very easy to do and I think I used a 1 1/2" bolt........but not sure.
I don't remember having to take the head off the plunger.......do you mean to do the mod or as part of the mod?
 

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Well I already took the thing apart (left the head on the plunger) and rounded the latch out. I was wondering if the head stays off.

Its not necessary to remove it in order to get the plunger out so why do it at all? Unless its left off for the mod. Also do I put that little spring for the latch back in?

All I have to do is tap it. Going down my Fathers house later today and he has taps so I have to wait until then to tap it.

1 1/2" sounds right. The rod has about 3/4" of forward extension and when all the way in there is about .5" of thread exposed for the bolt. So 1.5" sounds close.
 

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QUOTE (Josh @ Mar 20 2009, 07:58 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=733370
Well I already took the thing apart (left the head on the plunger) and rounded the latch out. I was wondering if the head stays off.

Its not necessary to remove it in order to get the plunger out so why do it at all? Unless its left off for the mod. Also do I put that little spring for the latch back in?

All I have to do is tap it. Going down my Fathers house later today and he has taps so I have to wait until then to tap it.

1 1/2" sounds right. The rod has about 3/4" of forward extension and when all the way in there is about .5" of thread exposed for the bolt. So 1.5" sounds close.[/b]
The "head" on the shaft :icon_cool: stays on........I'm almost positive of that.
I don't remember about the spring.........I think I left it in but it seem like it wouldn't be necessary.
Whichever bolt I went with I have about 3/4' sticking out when adjusted correctly.

I just used the washer without the o-ring or t-tape and it leaked like a m-f'r. Got some t-tape on it now as a quick fix but when my head comes off after my next trip out I will do the o-ring thing.
 

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I just thought I add a little I didn't see it in here. A 7/16 x20 tap works perfect and you can use a 3/8 a.c o-ring washer to seal it. Its the washer between your a.c compressor. And high side line available at auto parts stores. Its like a crush washer and o-ring made. Together so you.get the best.of both worlds and designed for 400 + psi
 

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Good info on the washer. I went through 3 or 4 of them before I found one that would fit in just right to the way I countersunk the hole.
My tap was a 7/16" 20 as well.
 

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very good mod i bought a motor for 235 with the side cover cracked (dang chain) but i guess it jumped time but i did this and bam no more time jumpin or chain slappin i used a ford bell housing bolt :D just gotta go get a smaller one so i can put my box back were it belongs :D good mod friend
 

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could you not just thread the whole thing get a longer grade 8 or case hardened bolt and round off the end that would touch the cam chain, put a jam nut on it for adjustment and be good to go?
 

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I finally did this mod used the 7/16 x 20 did everythng the same but instead of using an oring I used a nylock jam nut with the stock aluminum crush washer. Mod works great and no leak yet.
 

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I finally did this mod used the 7/16 x 20 did everythng the same but instead of using an oring I used a nylock jam nut with the stock aluminum crush washer. Mod works great and no leak yet.
I'd be surprised if it doesn't leak. How long did you ride it for?
Good luck and good job if it doesn't leak. Hopefully you got somthing there.
 

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about an hour on it so far its good, I had to run the bolt trough the nut 1 time to form the threads in the nylon then I carfully put the nut on the bolt nylon 1st. I will let you know if it leaks, just less machine work.
 
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