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Is there suppose to be a cap in the circled area in the picture? the right side does have a cap and i think the left one might have fallen out and i think its screwing up my engine. thanks
 

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To the best of my knowledge yes. They should have a freeze plug pressed in there.
 

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yes thats what it is , a freeze plug
 

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I ran out to the garage and pulled the plastic wrap off my head to check all those holes should have a plug in them sir . And a good day to ya.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
QUOTE (Flz400 @ Jan 20 2010, 05:42 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=768112
I ran out to the garage and pulled the plastic wrap off my head to check all those holes should have a plug in them sir . And a good day to ya.[/b]
thanks alot for your reply. does anyone know what the function of this plug does, and if the engine was ran without this plug, would it cause my engine to overheat?
 

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what about where did that plug go? :shocker:
 

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QUOTE (xxbiga9xx @ Jan 20 2010, 08:13 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=768116
thanks alot for your reply. does anyone know what the function of this plug does, and if the engine was ran without this plug, would it cause my engine to overheat?[/b]
Freeze plugs are used in engines so that if the coolant freezes and expands as it turns to ice the block/head doesnt crack, the freeze plug just pops out. Normally automotive type engines do not have them in the heads they are on the block. Im not sure if that is a plug for a coolant passage in the head or a oil passage, anyone know I have never rebuilt a z400 head.
I think in an earlier post you had sunk your z right? Funny things happen with water in oil and your cylinder then ride it home even a short trip. After you cleaned your oil and rode it again you said it was smoking then you went home and it was smoking really bad and oil poured out of the oil tank when you checked it. Did you have water/coolant in the oil again?

And yes it could cause it to overheat if it is a plug for a coolant passage. Since the pressure inside your cooling system is what keeps water from boiling at 212F. Pressure raises that boiling point to 230F to 250F depending on coolant mixture. If you don't have pressure in the system it boils, turns to steam and does not cool as effectively since there is less surface contact between the coolant and the coolant passage walls as bubbles of air and steam take the place of the coolant. Every CR500 I have owned overheats because honda only uses a 9lb radiator cap on it. If you let that engine idle for just a minute or two the radiator cap would vent and the coolant would boil and overheat. The boiling coolant would actually score and weaken the inside of your coolant passages from boiling so hard on the surface of the walls to cause cylinder liner failure. The fix was to get a KX500 radiator cap that was rated at 15lbs (if I remember that right) to raise the pressure in the system and therefore raise the boiling point of the coolant and no more problems after that.

The problem worse then overheating is water/coolant in the oil since it starves all the bearings and surfaces for lubrication causing extreme and fatal failure in extremely short time periods.
 

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QUOTE (711Streetfighter @ Jan 20 2010, 07:34 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=768124
Freeze plugs are used in engines so that if the coolant freezes and expands as it turns to ice the block/head doesnt crack, the freeze plug just pops out. Normally automotive type engines do not have them in the heads they are on the block. Im not sure if that is a plug for a coolant passage in the head or a oil passage, anyone know I have never rebuilt a z400 head.
I think in an earlier post you had sunk your z right? Funny things happen with water in oil and your cylinder then ride it home even a short trip. After you cleaned your oil and rode it again you said it was smoking then you went home and it was smoking really bad and oil poured out of the oil tank when you checked it. Did you have water/coolant in the oil again?

And yes it could cause it to overheat if it is a plug for a coolant passage. Since the pressure inside your cooling system is what keeps water from boiling at 212F. Pressure raises that boiling point to 230F to 250F depending on coolant mixture. If you don't have pressure in the system it boils, turns to steam and does not cool as effectively since there is less surface contact between the coolant and the coolant passage walls as bubbles of air and steam take the place of the coolant. Every CR500 I have owned overheats because honda only uses a 9lb radiator cap on it. If you let that engine idle for just a minute or two the radiator cap would vent and the coolant would boil and overheat. The boiling coolant would actually score and weaken the inside of your coolant passages from boiling so hard on the surface of the walls to cause cylinder liner failure. The fix was to get a KX500 radiator cap that was rated at 15lbs (if I remember that right) to raise the pressure in the system and therefore raise the boiling point of the coolant and no more problems after that.

The problem worse then overheating is water/coolant in the oil since it starves all the bearings and surfaces for lubrication causing extreme and fatal failure in extremely short time periods.[/b]
thank you for all of that info. i have another question for you, would no pressure build up in my coolest cause my fan not to kick on? or my temp light? cause i know it was overheating and my fan nor my light went on once. could the non pressure be a factor with that?
 

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QUOTE (xxbiga9xx @ Jan 20 2010, 10:10 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=768127
thank you for all of that info. i have another question for you, would no pressure build up in my coolest cause my fan not to kick on? or my temp light? cause i know it was overheating and my fan nor my light went on once. could the non pressure be a factor with that?[/b]
They are temp sensitive not pressure.
You can test your fan easily enough. Get a multimeter.
1. Set the meter selector to the D.C. Voltage position.
2. Connect the red tester lead to the orange wire (the black 2-prong at the fan motor); then connect the black tester lead to ground.
3. The meter must show battery voltage.

-If the meter shows no battery voltage, troubleshoot the battery, fuse, motor, or the main wiring harness.
-If the meter shows battery voltage, the main wiring harness is good.
-The connector should be tested for resistance.
-To determine if the fan motor is good, connect the red wire from the fan connector to a 12 volt D.C. power supply; then connect the black/red wire from the fan connector to ground. The fan should operate.

The two ways to accurately test the fan switch and temp light switch themselves is
1. remove it. Then get a pot of water on the stove or heat plate, a thermometer, and multimeter. Place the switch in the water on string or coat hanger and monitor the water temp with a thermometer and see what temp the contacts close with the multimeter.
2. If it runs get a thermometer on the radiator or infared heat gun to monitor temp while its running and see what temp the switch closes with the multimeter.

The high temp light switch closes at 248F, the fan switch closes at 190F +/- a few degrees.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
QUOTE (711Streetfighter @ Jan 20 2010, 09:13 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=768129
They are temp sensitive not pressure.
You can test your fan easily enough. Get a multimeter.
1. Set the meter selector to the D.C. Voltage position.
2. Connect the red tester lead to the orange wire (the black 2-prong at the fan motor); then connect the black tester lead to ground.
3. The meter must show battery voltage.

-If the meter shows no battery voltage, troubleshoot the battery, fuse, motor, or the main wiring harness.
-If the meter shows battery voltage, the main wiring harness is good.
-The connector should be tested for resistance.
-To determine if the fan motor is good, connect the red wire from the fan connector to a 12 volt D.C. power supply; then connect the black/red wire from the fan connector to ground. The fan should operate.

The two ways to accurately test the fan switch and temp light switch themselves is
1. remove it. Then get a pot of water on the stove or heat plate, a thermometer, and multimeter. Place the switch in the water on string or coat hanger and monitor the water temp with a thermometer and see what temp the contacts close with the multimeter.
2. If it runs get a thermometer on the radiator or infared heat gun to monitor temp while its running and see what temp the switch closes with the multimeter.

The high temp light switch closes at 248F, the fan switch closes at 190F +/- a few degrees.[/b]
ok i just put a new freeze plug in there that i got from an auto parts store because apparently suzuki does not sell it? so im gonna test all of my cool system make sure everything is working, then i'll report back and see tell how it went
 

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QUOTE (xxbiga9xx @ Jan 22 2010, 08:41 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=768255
ok i just put a new freeze plug in there that i got from an auto parts store because apparently suzuki does not sell it? so im gonna test all of my cool system make sure everything is working, then i'll report back and see tell how it went[/b]
got the freeze plug in, had to buy a new head gasket cause ripped through my old one from overheating, put new piston in since cracked old piston. ok so since my freeze plug was out, the oil and the coolant was mixing, im pretty sure it just burned all of the coolant and put oil inside my radiator. after i put the new freeze plug in, it fixed all the problems i was having. thanks for all the help people
 

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QUOTE (xxbiga9xx @ Feb 1 2010, 02:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=768912
got the freeze plug in, had to buy a new head gasket cause ripped through my old one from overheating, put new piston in since cracked old piston. ok so since my freeze plug was out, the oil and the coolant was mixing, im pretty sure it just burned all of the coolant and put oil inside my radiator. after i put the new freeze plug in, it fixed all the problems i was having. thanks for all the help people[/b]
Glad I could help. One note if I were you I would do a few oil and filter changes before really riding it around to make sure you get all the coolant out of the engine. Just let it run long enough for the fan to kick on and the engine to get up to temp and drain the oil IMMEDIATELY!!! Do this with cheap oil a few times Id say 3 times at least just to make sure (or until the oil comes out looking normal). You don't want to ruin all that work you just did by loosing a bearing in the bottom end of the engine because the coolant/water mix leftover in there will displace the oil in the bearing surfaces. Then once you're done with that put the good stuff in and you should be ok. Don't ride it till you're 100% sure there's no coolant in the engine oil. The bearings won't have much load on them sitting there at idle so it won't hurt them, but if you ride it the loads on the bearings increase by huge amounts. Just a little lack of oil while under load and a bearing will heat up and gaul really fast then eat itself for breakfast.
You don't happen to of kept the part number, size, price, and where you got them for those freeze plugs? Might be nice to have for future reference in case someone else needs them.
 

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QUOTE (711Streetfighter @ Feb 3 2010, 06:40 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=769108
Glad I could help. One note if I were you I would do a few oil and filter changes before really riding it around to make sure you get all the coolant out of the engine. Just let it run long enough for the fan to kick on and the engine to get up to temp and drain the oil IMMEDIATELY!!! Do this with cheap oil a few times Id say 3 times at least just to make sure (or until the oil comes out looking normal). You don't want to ruin all that work you just did by loosing a bearing in the bottom end of the engine because the coolant/water mix leftover in there will displace the oil in the bearing surfaces. Then once you're done with that put the good stuff in and you should be ok. Don't ride it till you're 100% sure there's no coolant in the engine oil. The bearings won't have much load on them sitting there at idle so it won't hurt them, but if you ride it the loads on the bearings increase by huge amounts. Just a little lack of oil while under load and a bearing will heat up and gaul really fast then eat itself for breakfast.
You don't happen to of kept the part number, size, price, and where you got them for those freeze plugs? Might be nice to have for future reference in case someone else needs them.[/b]
i just brought my head to an auto parts store, they just matched it up, gave me the plug for free
 

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QUOTE (xxbiga9xx @ Jan 22 2010, 08:41 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=768255

got the freeze plug in, had to buy a new head gasket cause ripped through my old one from overheating, put new piston in since cracked old piston. ok so since my freeze plug was out, the oil and the coolant was mixing, im pretty sure it just burned all of the coolant and put oil inside my radiator. after i put the new freeze plug in, it fixed all the problems i was having. thanks for all the help people
What size freeze plug for ltz400??
 

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QUOTE (xxbiga9xx @ Jan 22 2010, 08:41 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=768255

got the freeze plug in, had to buy a new head gasket cause ripped through my old one from overheating, put new piston in since cracked old piston. ok so since my freeze plug was out, the oil and the coolant was mixing, im pretty sure it just burned all of the coolant and put oil inside my radiator. after i put the new freeze plug in, it fixed all the problems i was having. thanks for all the help people
Hey do you know the size of the freeze plug? I’m having the same issue
 

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This is 10 years old, so these guys probably aren’t around anymore. You have to measure it with a micrometer or have a shop do it to find out the size.
 
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