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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, my sons KFX400 2005 which we just got has metal shavings on the filter and I can see it in the oil, I have done 2 oil changes now and I also get pieces on the Oil drain bolt. It appears I am getting steel and aluminum. The quad runs very well and is super clean, No abnormal noises or anything. I am going to starting taking things apart untill I can find the source of the metal ( Oil tank was stripped at some point but I wuld think any metal from when they retapped would be gone by now. He trail rides it ,Quad has intake, no air lid,Full Pro Circuit exhaust and a Dyna tech CDI.

So Depending how far I get,
Hot Cams Stage 1 or 2?
Valves Wiesco, Kibblewhite or stock?
Valve springs DRZ ( What year or model ), Wiesco ,Kibble white?
DRZ Base gasket? What year? What model?
Timing chain D.I.D or wiesco? Do you guys have a part number?
Piston and rings OEM or Aftermarket?
Big bore would be if I had damage to cylinder and what not other wise I will leave it stock bore. If I do Big bore do I have to do cams? I am not planning on doing all of the above unless I get to that part of the tear down with out finding the issue.

IE If I take head off Ill do valve,springs and Timing Chain. If I take cylinder off Ill do piston and rings and so on.

Any links and part numbers would be great. Thank you so much.
 

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The first thing that seems to get damaged when oil pressure goes south or it is run without frequent oil changes is the far left journal of the exhaust cam. If that goes out of spec then you’ll be needing a new head and probably a cam. Best to see what it needs before pricing out parts. Personally, if I’m taking the head off, it’s getting new rings and obviously new head gasket at a minimum. No sense in going that far and putting the old stuff back together.
Ferrara makes great valves with dual spring kits, as does KW. I prefer valves that don’t have a coating so they can be lapped into the seats. The rest is just preference.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So If I do the valves you recommend getting the valves and springs as a kit and use the same springs as the valve brand I choose?

I here D.I.D has d2 choices in chains, is there one style that is better then the other?

If I go with DRZ springs and Base gasket do I order them for the DRZ E Model?If so what year? Would I also use DRZ E Valve Seals and retainers and what not or do I use the LTZ 400 stuff?

OEM Piston and Rings?

I would like to know about this stuff and which Cams because I am most likely going to replace at least some of it and I want to start ordering and getting things lines upped.

I am not sure whats going on with the motor, It runs great but something is going on. Going to pull side covers first and take a look.There are zero strange sounds and it runs great.
 

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I would get the valves/springs/seals as a kit. You can re-use the stock keepers, but some might argue that you should get new ones. I never had any problems using the factory keepers again.
Don’t quote me, but I believe the second DID chain is a heavy duty type. That’s the one I would use.
The DRZ base gasket is the same as the Z 3-layer gasket, except you only use 1 of the layers. In other words, you order the Z gasket, use 1 layer of it, and you get spares for later. I think the valves are the same for the e model and the other model of DRZ. If you’re ordering aftermarket valves, just order them for the Z.
Most order aftermarket pistons (CP, vertex, etc), but if you need a piston, you probably need a cylinder. Cheaper to order them together with rings and gaskets.
Cams are debatable. Hot cams are ok and are torquey, but Webcams make more power on top-end. It depends on the grind you get.
If it runs great, I’m not sure I would just start throwing money at it, but it’s up to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
It does run great, But the metal shavings have me concerned, I just figured while I am taking it apart I would do some maintenance, The cams would be be for a performance upgrade, Piston would only be if needed but rings for sure. I am not sure if it would be money well spent to use a Wiesco or Kibblewhite top end kit. I have two of these machines so at some point I'll need these items anyway.

I am hoping it is something simple .
 

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The DRZ E valve springs are double springs, like all the capable replacements. give much better control.
The DRZ E base gasket is a single layer, but can be swapped with the single layer of the Z gasket, as Jet points out.
Another vote for stainless aftermarket valves here..
Aftermarket pistons, cylinders are way cheaper than stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just want a quiality replacment if I am not going stock, Wiesco and KB I am assuming are, I use Wiesco in my Sleds, KB I am not sure about.
 

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I have wiseco valves, but their top end kits used to be a liner, junk IMO, and piston. Just as cheap to by a complete jug and piston, or cheaper, after all the machine work. Kibblewhite only does valvetrain stuff, not top end kits.
 

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Discussion Starter #9

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Discussion Starter #10
Hot Cams Stage 1 or 2? Did a google search but was not coming up with what I was looking for. Mostly trail ridingDo i loose top end with Stage 1 ? Do i loose bottom end with stage 2?
 

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Ok, the wiseco kit has an oversize piston. how are you going to put it in your stock cylinder? They used to sell it with a sleeve. you would have the cylinder bored to accept the sleeve, then hope it would all seal and not shift. The machine work was as much or more than buying an aftermarket cylinder. At least the kibblewhite kit will fit your stock cylinder, if its still usable. If you buy a cylinder kit, its ready to go, fresh and in spec, stock size or big bore are about the same price.
Those hotcams are pretty lame. You will barely notice a difference on the stage ones, little more change on the stage 2, slight loss on bottom in exhcange for a slight gain on top. Hardly worth the cost. Read up on the sticked cam specs in the performance section. Higher lift increases power at any rpm, more duration keeps the valves open longer, but tends to trade low rpm power for high rpm power. Without looking, those new stage 2's aren"t quite as good as my old NSCH as I remember. You can put the single layer base gasket to compensate for any bottom end loss if you go stage 2, but will need to run high test.
 
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Discussion Starter #13
I Didn't realize the Wiseco was not standard bore size, The reason I was looking into the Hot Cams is because of Price, teh Web cams are a bit more then I want to spend on trail quad. If cylinder and piston are good I may just go with new OEM Rings, Wiseco valves and DRZE springs. Can I order the seals and retainers and stuff for the Z motor or do I order it all for the DRZE? Ill also get the DRZE Gasket.Can I order all of the DRZE Gaskets to put it together Or do I just get the Base gaskey and the rest from the Z? Thanks
 

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You can order all DRZE if you want, or Z, doesn't matter. The springs and base gasket are different, but like we pointed out before, you can take the Z gasket apart and use 1 piece of it to up the compression, if you use high test fuel. We end up with aftermarket gaskets in the big bores (Cometic), and they should have standard size as well, not sure how the price compares to OEM. Nobody wants to give them away though, unfortunately.. I have a used set of NSHC's but wouldn't try to ship them from up here, and it will be a while before they open borders up. You might find some used ones around though.
 
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