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No need to pull carb..Just loosen inlet and outlet tubes and turn carb to the side. Leave the idle adjust cable attached. (make use of the drain screw on the bottom to drain the bowl first to keep gas off the engine)

Removing bowl: Many people report that the factory screws are VERY tight. Make sure that you use a very good #2 Phillips driver - if your scewdriver is rough or a cheap one - stop! Get a new #2 screwdriver of a quality brand. I suggest a long craftsman, Snan-on, or similar quality - this makes reaching the intake tube clamps easier. Longer screwdriver also allows you to apply more "push" pressure to avoid stripping. Some report that they have brass scews holding the bowl on (mine were zink plated steel) Brass is very soft and will strip very easily - very important that you take your time and use a good fitting screwdriver. Easy-outs do not work well on brass - if you do strip one, and cannot remove using "other" methods (pliers, vice grips, etc) it may be worth it to take the carb to a shop for help. I would suggest replacing brass screws with steel allen bolts even if they come out fine.

Jet bigger than recomended if running in very hot weather (according to Yoshi tech support - 155 for slip-on in Phx).

Set fuel lever to "prime" for a few seconds to re-fill bowl - never leave it on prime though.

After a few times - you can change Jets in less than 5min.

Jet recommendations direct from Yoshi tech support for 1000ft:

Slip-on, no snorkle 145

Slip-on, no snorkle, no lid 152.5

Slip-on, no snorkle, no lid, hot weather 155
 

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watch the brass screws too! ive heard on other forums that they are very easy to strip due to overtorquing.
 

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Allen Screws

Changing to allen screws is an excellent idea. I had one very tight screw that required removing the carb to loosen.
 

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This is pretty much what I did you jet my carb. It was a B$%^$%
I did strip them and had to get out the dremel to grind down 2 of the screws and pull the bowl. I did have a #2 screwdriver and had one person holding the carb as I tried to steady the screwdriver under as much force as I could apply to get the screw out. I'll post the screw sizes tonight.
The main is usually also very tight. Just pull the whole needle tube and get the right grip/leverage on the bench.
 

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I stripped those damn brass screws on the carb for my oddysey, it wasn't that bad but i need a new one. Thanx for the tip.


Later
 

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That's where I went Sandstorm. Lowes, 59 cents.

The jetting should be a 152.5 with the silencer too.

Also, a .155 will make it run rich. You would only do this in the heat to keep the cylinder cooler by adding some extra fuel if you are riding hard, to keep away from detonation. I'd rather run water wetter or something.
Fact is, in hotter weather you should need to jet down since the air is not as dense and you will be making less HP. Jetting up is just an old racers trick to keep from blowing it up in the heat if you don't have proper cooling.
 

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FYI - I bought the steel allen screws today. I was talking to my father-in-law, who is a welder, He said that steel screws in aluminum will oxidize over a few months time and then you won't be able to remove the screws at all. He recommended staying with brass, but don't torque them down so tight. I've never heard this before. What do you guys think?
 

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Your farther in law is right HPFman, they will "weld" each other from heat and time. You can still use steel screws if you coat the threads with antisieze. That is also good to use on spark plug threads and on anything where aluminum and steel mates (thread wise).
 

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what size and length allen bolts do i need to pick up?? i haven't taken my carb apart yet so i don't know what the size or length, and i figured i'd just pick some up the next time i was in lowes or home depot.. thankx
 

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Use an impact screwdriver to remove the screws.

IF you've never seen one, go to sears.com and do a search for
"impact screw driver". The first thing on the list (Sears Item #00947641000
Mfr. Model #47641) is what i'm talking about. It's the best $25 you'll ever spend.
 

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carb screws.

I just bought new bowl screws, Of course I ruined 2 of the stock ones getting the damn carb apart.

I am replacing them with ZinkOxide coated steel screws (there just painted black basically) I have a 10 year old XT500 with these screws in the carb and they never oxidized/froze yet...

The problem with our machines is that there were no washers. Has anyone taken a carb apart before that did not have washers???? I have not. Blame Stupid Suzuki for it.. Ive worked on Keihin,Mikuni,Lectron,tiltson,Brigs-n-Stratton,rochester,carter,holley and predator all have had lockwashers and never have I found anything that damn tight.

what about the vacume tube on the carb?? Im going to autozone any buying one of those fancy little ricer valve cover breathers for it to keep dust out.. What good is an airfilter if you have an open hose right there next to it to suck in dust...
 

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getting out broken screws

This is fairly simple and your not likley to ruin anything in the process...

get a nice sharp 1/8 drill bit and drill right through the head of the screw. the nice round hole that you made trying to get the screw out will keep the bit perfectly centered. Use a rechargable drill on its slowest speed and push HARD this will keep the bit from jumping around and damaging anything. You can just guess when you have drilled far enough and then attempt to pry the bowl gently, if you drilled deep enough the head will pop right off with the lightest amount of prying...

Someone mentioned Anti Seiz in an earlier post. Be very carefull with this stouff arounf the spark plug Anti seiz conducts electricity and can quickly give you a miss if you get it on your spark plug boot.


later
 

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You can use a small sharp chisel and hammer to turn the striped screws out. This worked for me.
 

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I agree with swivel I highly doubt these screws are brass, they maybe brass in color like most screws I've seen on Carbs. Brass is very soft. I highly recommend the new sharp screw driver and deffinetly use anti-sieze on all the screws you ever take out of your quad. Another good screw for seizing are the ones in the brake resoviour covers. I recommend taking those out and applying anti-seize now before it's 4 years old an you can't get them out.
 

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:boom Here is an easy fix to the stupid brass screws. Take out your trusty Dremel and heavy duty cut-off wheel and slot the heads of all the screws. Now take a straight-slot screw driver and remove them. It takes very little effort and time. Just be sure not to go too deep so that you don't get into the carb with the cut-off wheel.
 

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8) HEY 969
THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT I DID AND YOU ARE CORRECT IT DOES WORK PERFECTLY
 

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I used an impact to get them out and replaced them with stainless allen head screws to avoid the dissimilar metals corrosion.
 
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