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Discussion Starter #1
This thread is from all the combine info from this site put into one post. Im not trying to take credit for anyones ideas, just putting them in a how to with pic's to help the next guy! maybe it should get pinned for the guy a year from now?

WHAT YOU NEED:
*2003-2004 uses ricky stator honda joints [RS3002]
*2005 and up uses ricky stator yamaha joints [RS3003]
(Other stuff may work including tie rod ends from your whatever in the back yard but the ones above work great and are a ball joint maid for an atv at 20 bucks each)
*M16X1.5 mm tap for any year(15 bucks)
* 2-M16X1.5 jam nuts or cut down the ones they come with.
*9/16 drill bit and some smaller sizes to work up to the 9/16 final size
*touch up paint
*lock tite
* about 2-3 hours of time per side

LETS GET STARTED

Remove your lower joint with a fork, puller, or hit it with a hammer, no matter, its junk anyway! Then remove the arm.I don't recommend trying to do it on the quad!!

Tape the dust caps on so they don't fall off.

find center of the ball joint to the back of the arm.

Cut the old joint off at 1/8 inch past where the taper stops. If you are unsure if you can cut it right, cut it right were the taper starts and finish with a grinder. At this spot you will meet up with the factory hole from behind.

Secure the arm to the bench so it can't move around.

Now drill with a SHARP 1/2 inch bit from the front, then the SHARP 9/16. Go slow, check as you go, and use cutting oil. If you push to hard you will wreck your bit, this is hard steel!

Once you have a nice 9/16 hole get your tap and cutting oil or tap lube and very slowly tap the hole. Turn the tap 1/4 turn at a time and back off to clean the thread. YOU MUST TAKE YOUR TIME!

Now thread the new joint in and make sure the nut fits flush. If it doesn't, hit if with the grinder and run the tap to re-clean the thread.

Paint so it doesn't rust.

Now make sure you have the same space end to end as when you started and snug the nut. You will want to get a jam nut of cut yours down to get exactly back to factory spec. The ones that come with it are too wide.

Install with some lock-tite, make sure everything is tight and take a big breath, Your done!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, I hope this helps someone.
 

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I implied from the OP that the lower ball joints are junk, but do they break down or bust while jumping? What is the exact reason they are junk?

Newb question, I know....:cool: The only other reason I could think of for replacing the joints was for camber adjustment.
 

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Has anyone done this with a tie-rod from the local auto parts store? If so, what vehicle did you use.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think I've seen them used, i might have remembered reading ti rods are built different, not sure? I think the Ricky stator ones were like $20 each, why would you not just get the right thing?
 

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Just asking if anyone tried it. If there is one from a car that would work just as good, I would just run to the auto parts store to get it and have it that day. If not, I'll get the Rick's
 

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I'd like to know too. I really don't feel like ordering them. I'd rather just pick them up and I get a discount too so that's a plus. Maybe I'll do a little research on this.
 

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Pm Josh, he'll know. He had to order one for his LSR arms and they for sure had a MOOG PN from any auto parts store.

I want to say it's a tie rod end for a geo, but like I said he'll know for sure.
 

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KFXGUY, If you find anything please let me know. There has to be something at the local auto parts store.
 

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THATS GREAT! Instead of buying a whole new lower arm for $120, Time 2 fabracate!! Thank u very much bro!! GIT SUM!!
 

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just got done with the mod, was a lil more difficult getting the drill bits to go through straight and the tap to go in straight, but all in all its a good mod, no more sketchy steering from shot ball joints.
 

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how about a fix for the same problem but with a roll designs arm? any ideas? they dont seem to care about helping their customers since no one has got back to me even after 4 emails and 2 phone calls...
 

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I don't have z400 arms yet for a conversion I'm doing. are the upper spindle holes/ball joint the same size? I'd like to make it adjustable, I'm thinking either weld a bung on or cut, drill and tap like you guys are doing, welding would be faster I think lol but taping would be cleaner I imagine.
 

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I would say tapping would be better because you wouldn't have to cut it out next time you replace them. And I think it would hold up better than a weld anyway.
 
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