Ok guys I have a problem that has me totally stumped. I have an 03 z400 that I am working on. I am not sure what has been done to the cylinder as far as bore and compression, but it does have an HMF slip-on pipe, a stage 2 dyno jet kit running the 146 main and the stock pilot. Needle set on position 3 and 3 and a half turns out on the mixture screw. Air box lid is removed and running a K&N air filter. It has aftermarket cams as well, but I am not sure what brand and an after market CDI. I think that covers everything. I have had this quad for about a week so I dont know much about it yet. When I got it there was an edelbrock carb with a twist throttle on it. I cant stand the twist throttle and the quad just felt like it was under powered so i switched back to the stock carb because I dont know anything about the edelbrock and it runs alot better. Now for the strange part of the story. If I stand on the pegs with the quad running at idle and shake it side to side it will cough and die. When I try to re start it I have to give it a little throttle before it will start. It will idle again unless I shake it again. It does want to idle a little high and if I adjust the idle down then it doesnt want to stay running. Now if I am turning sharp left the darn thing will cut in and out, but when I turn right it runs fine and runs great from idle to full throttle in a straight line. I have went through all the wiring and didnt find any problems with bare or broken wires. I also pulled all the connectors apart and used die grease in them. There is no choke cable either. Any ideas on this? It almost acts like it is flooding its self. The floats are set at 13mm. The fuel petcock has been gutted and there is an inline shut-off valve installed Sorry for the novel! Thanks!!
LTZ 400 cuts out when turning left or shake side to side
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I searched "shake" in advanced search, titles only and a few came up.
Here's one........
http://www.suzukicentral.com/forums...ng/123242-my-quad-dies-everytime-i-shake.html
We had a Honda Recon that would sputter and die sometimes if you went over alot of bumps or whoops, never did figure that out.
Here's one........
http://www.suzukicentral.com/forums...ng/123242-my-quad-dies-everytime-i-shake.html
We had a Honda Recon that would sputter and die sometimes if you went over alot of bumps or whoops, never did figure that out.
Thanks for the quick reply! I read the post and have been all over this thing from electrical to float height. I bumped the float height to 14mm and didnt help. After it coughs and dies it is a little hard to start. I have to open the throttle about a 1/4 before it will start again. However if it is shut off with the key, it will fire right up with no help from the throttle. I guess that is why I am leaning towards a carb issue rather than an electrical problem. This is a frustrating problem thats for sure!
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2,227 Posts
side to side sounds like it may be in the stem area wiring. double check your wires for any touching metal or sheathing that has been warn off
look closely for any power wires that may be bare (without wire coating) and may be grounding on the frame, bars or stem or the metal wire holder at the stem.
you never know sometimes these wires take a beating on trail.
look closely for any power wires that may be bare (without wire coating) and may be grounding on the frame, bars or stem or the metal wire holder at the stem.
you never know sometimes these wires take a beating on trail.
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More than likely is an electrical problem. As regards to cutting out when shaking, take all the panels off, start it and wiggle each wire and connection in turn to simulate a riding the riding condition.
Maybe start from the battery and work forwards as ive had a bad ground cable before!
You may need to address some of the other things you mentioned also. Do you have a choke installed or has the cable just broke? The little pull chokes that screw into the side are fine, as you don't want the choke stuck on/ off or half on.
I dont know if gutting the standard petcock is the best thing to do. Replace it with a 660 raptor one with a fuel off position, and plug the vacuum line.
Make sure your throttle cable is routed correctly as the cutting out or revving up when turning the handle bars would be the symptoms of a wrongly routed or kinked cable.
Maybe start from the battery and work forwards as ive had a bad ground cable before!
You may need to address some of the other things you mentioned also. Do you have a choke installed or has the cable just broke? The little pull chokes that screw into the side are fine, as you don't want the choke stuck on/ off or half on.
I dont know if gutting the standard petcock is the best thing to do. Replace it with a 660 raptor one with a fuel off position, and plug the vacuum line.
Make sure your throttle cable is routed correctly as the cutting out or revving up when turning the handle bars would be the symptoms of a wrongly routed or kinked cable.
Thanks guys I will look over everything you all have mentioned over the weekend. The carb does have the screw in type choke. I will get the rappy petcock for sure. I will let you know what I find for sure. I spent the majority of last Sunday dinking with it. And this Sunday will be no different Lol! Thanks again!
I had a stand alone turbo s2000. Everytime I hit a big bump the car would die. All electronics worked, car just bogged.
Sent it back to AEM they said it was fine. I didn't believe them. $1400 later I got another unit. Loaded the same exact tune and it never cut out again. My wiring harness was OEM never modified. Secure connection.
Anyway what I'm getting at is it could be a bad CDI and the company just won't admit it even if it is bad. Swap it and try another.
Sent it back to AEM they said it was fine. I didn't believe them. $1400 later I got another unit. Loaded the same exact tune and it never cut out again. My wiring harness was OEM never modified. Secure connection.
Anyway what I'm getting at is it could be a bad CDI and the company just won't admit it even if it is bad. Swap it and try another.
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4,999 Posts
Look for wires stretched too tight. Had a GSXR 1000 that died every time I pulled into my driveway. It took speed bumps just fine, but not the dip at the end of the driveway. Found a pin retainer broken on one of the harness plugs and the wire was tight. Pulled it out every time the frame flexed down in the center.
Aircraft are built with slack in every harness, hyd or fuel line. As the sun hits their skin, it expands and load stress also makes the frames flex. Without slack, all kinds of things would rip apart. The fact that it's hard to start afterward probably means there is unburned fuel in the cylinder and you have to flood it to get it to start.
Aircraft are built with slack in every harness, hyd or fuel line. As the sun hits their skin, it expands and load stress also makes the frames flex. Without slack, all kinds of things would rip apart. The fact that it's hard to start afterward probably means there is unburned fuel in the cylinder and you have to flood it to get it to start.
Hey guys I figured it out! It was the choke. It is the screw-in knob type. Well turns out that the choke was not seating all the way. The damn thing was stuck out about 3mm. You couldn't tell by looking at it but when I would push it in with my thumb it would change the idle and I could shake the hell out of it with no hint of wanting to die. I took a small punch and knocked the little pin in the center of the knob in about 3mm and re installed. Runs awesome now! Thanks for all of the input!
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