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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im getting ready to order my parts for rebuild project. bbk cylinder works, web cams, and kw valves. if anybody has any suggestions on making this an easier project for me id appreicate it. it'll be a first for me.

my compression test was only a 30!! im guessing its time! pictures to follow for those interested.
 

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Get a d.I.d cam chain and a manual cam chain tensioner
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
i replace the the did when i bought the bike. how does the manual tensioner work?? how do you know when its tight or too tight??
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
bbk kit ordered. got the cylinder works from kb motorsports!! ordered new valves and springs from them as well!! web cams here as soon as my fund get caught up!!
 

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What compression is that piston? I would get the single layer base gasket or the DRZ base gasket to get the most compression out of your bbk, it will bring out the most power out of it I think:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
if i go with the drz gasket, wont that effect my valve or piston clearance? i ordered the bbk kit and factory replacement kw valves & springs
 

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I don't believe so, but don't quote me on that. Someone will chime in and give some knowledge for you. I would have done it myself, but my piston was a 13.1 comp piston, so by going DRZ base gasket, I would have to run race gas.
 

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You only need to worry about piston to valve clearance when you put a +5 stroker in it. Then you need the stroker piston to go with it
 

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i replace the the did when i bought the bike. how does the manual tensioner work?? how do you know when its tight or too tight??
Manual tensioner allows you to manually adjust how much pressure is on the cam chain, instead of the auto ones where they just keep pushing out every time there is a tiny amount of slack. The advantage of the manual over the auto is that it won't wear out the chain. The automatic one has a lot of spring pressure in it, so when you bring the engine up to a high RPM, the chain develops a very slight amount of slack. Because of all the spring pressure the auto tensioner pushes out, putting tension on the chain.. This is fine for when it was at the higher RPM, but when the revs come back down, the chain would have normally been tensioned again before the tensioner pushed out. Instead, now there is too much tension on the cam chain, which causes it to stretch out and prematurely wear. With the manual, you have to adjust it yourself when you hear the chain start to slap around a little bit (you'll know when it needs adjustment because you'll have this loud slapping noise coming from the top end.) But this means, that when you have that tiny bit of slack at high RPM, the tensioner won't push out like the automatic one, causing the chain to stretch.
Ask anyone on this forum about the manual tensioner, it's recommended for everyone to buy. How long have you had your D.I.D installed with the auto tensioner?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
its never been rode yet. changed chain, decided to do bbk and valves dues to low compression and from the condition of the bike when i bought it. im going with the safer then sorry method.
 
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