Suzuki Central Forum banner

41 - 60 of 79 Posts

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,456 Posts
Stock valves with DRZ dual-springs. Look quite worn, both the valves and the valve seats. Replace the seals as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
Thanks bro! Dang I cant catch a break on this thing lol.

Assuming I need new everything, do you have any suggestions on new valves?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,456 Posts
If I had it to do again, I’d use Ferrea. And if you’re cutting new seats, no better time to go +1 on the valve size.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #45 (Edited)
Gotcha. $$$$
Can I get away with using my springs and retainers with the +1 ferrea?

Its a pretty big price jump for the springs, so I figured id ask.


Edit: Tried to take some better pics...still junk?







 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,456 Posts
That is one leaky valve oil seal!

All of the coating on that valve is gone and it has been worn down and has a little “step” grooved into it. From what I can see in the pics, the seat looks the same. If you put new valves in, they’ll quickly get that same groove in them to match the valve seat. So, the new valves wear out early.

If CFM or some other builder thinks differently, I may be acting overly cautious, but I would get the seats redone if you’re going to keep it awhile.

I would think the springs will be fine as long as they aren’t worn out of specs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
I appreciate the help and knowledge! Looks like im going to have to bite the bullet and go for +1 Ferrea with the full kit. Suppose we've come this far...



Did find this slick little factory aluminum skid plate for the link, slapped it on. Gonna try and go get my header pipe stretched to fit the white bros pipe tomorrow. Slowly but surely.



 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,799 Posts
Those are stock valves, which look like their coating is pretty much gone, and DRZ springs. I also agree that the seats should be touched up when you replace valves, provided that they are done by a shop that is good with these sort of engines. Not every machine shop has the right equipment to do accurate seat work on something like this. Some people do chance it, and get by with it, but the proper way is to have the seats trued up.

As far as adding +1 valves, I would on the exhaust side if you want to help the power in the higher rpms, but the port has to be ported to match, or it won't accomplish anything. The intake, I'd leave at the stock size. The stock intake valves are plenty big for anything short of a high rpm 470, like a drag build.

I highly recommend Ferrea valves. I've seen them live in situations where Kibblewhite fail. The DRZ springs are fine for your setup, but I would check the free length before tossing them back in. Springs do wear out. There is a spec. in the DRZ manual for free length. I don't remember what it is offhand.

That work done to that head looks pretty decent. Someone knew what they were doing when they built that engine. It looks like it will be a pretty nice setup.


If you need help setting that head up with new valves, or if you want the exhaust side ported for +1's, I'd be happy to help. [email protected] would be the best way to reach me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #49 (Edited)
My head is spinning and my wallet is screaming for its life.


With all these additional cost I may have to live with stock valve sizes.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,456 Posts
Welcome to the money pit!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #51 (Edited)
Haha for sure!

I took my head to a local cycle shop and he did say it was nicely ported both sides. Sweet. Hes gonna look over the valves and head and let me know what he thinks.

Unfortunately he has to send out for +1 cutting. Ill probably live without it, for what im doing this setup will be plenty fun. Jug and head getting surfaced and jug honed. Header getting stretched to fit my WB pipe.

Hopefully that doesn't take too long, as parts are coming in.

That said, I got my new clutch inner hub and pressure plate in the mail...along with the full clutch pack.

In regards to the 2 little oem metal spacer rings in the back of the basket, am I OK to ditch those for my application? If so, simply just leave them out?


Edit: found thread talking about it, tho photobucket pics are blurred. It looks like you lose the skinny first fiber plate and both washers.....then replace with a regular thickness fiber and steel. Correct?
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,799 Posts
Yep, you can ditch them for another regular size plate. The one difference that I've ever witnessed is that you can get a chatter in the clutch action when it's cold, without the jutter spring. Once warmed up, I haven't noticed an issue. I used to fire mine up and jump it off the trailer. That's when it would do it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #53 (Edited)
Thanks CFM! Just to clarify and for anyone else looking:
Swap the small spacer plates and the 1 skinny fiber plate on the left for the 1 solid plate and 1 bigger fiber plate on the right ...correct?

Update on the alba upper ball joints: Alba says that it looks right, but they are still gonna send a new set of more angled upper ball joints to try. The pic on the site shows more angled ones, but they said the pic was incorrect? That said, they have been great to deal with on all the orders ive made with them.
Update 2: The "more angled" ball joints showed today and this looks perfect to me:

This looks great but...they sent 2 different ones yet again?!?! They are sending another one. Shout out to Alba, despite some mishaps they have been cool the whole time. They always answer and are willing to help.

Anyway...Little progress today. Was able to make the bracket to fit rear YFZ450 dual piston brake caliper. Cleaned up the master and added a Galfer stainless coated line.

 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
7,799 Posts
Thanks CFM! Just to clarify and for anyone else looking:
Swap the small spacer plates and the 1 skinny fiber plate on the left for the 1 solid plate and 1 bigger fiber plate on the right ...correct?
The jutter spring and spacer go inside of that skinny fiber, so you're just replacing all that with a normal fiber.

That ball joint looks much better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
839 Posts
Really sweet build! I can't believe you scored a Hinson clutch cover on some random parts bike lol! Its really coming along nice!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #56
Really sweet build! I can't believe you scored a Hinson clutch cover on some random parts bike lol! Its really coming along nice!
Thanks! Having fun with it and learning alot.

I got real lucky on that yellow one with the parts that it had. Sold the guy some nerf bars and a couple weeks later he sold me his bike lol!

Kinda funny, I emailed hinson to verify what gasket the cover uses and even Ron Hinson said: Take good care of that cover, they are very rare!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #57
I now have all my motor parts and hopefully everything I need to complete this bad boy.



Jug honed nicely and surfaced


Head surfaced, couple little knicks but shouldn't be a problem. Got it all cleaned up, gonna run it for now.



Got my header stretched for the pipe, mocked up just to be sure it fits.



On the piston rings, im assuming any marks on the ring is facing up? I dont see any marks on the bottom oiler? rings...does the direction matter on them?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,456 Posts
It’s been awhile, but I think you’re correct: numbers up and oil ring doesn’t matter. Wipe the cylinder in ciircular patterns with an oily paper towel until no more gray comes off to get it fully clean. Place the rings in the cylinder perpendicularly about an inch from the top and measure end gap, file down to size with a ring grinder. If you don’t have one, carefully file with a flat file toward the piston.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #59 (Edited)
Alright got the motor together up to shimming the valves. It was all pretty easy, but man that corrugated oil ring is a PITA. I hope its not overlapped. Gonna get the rest together soon.

Got my header stretched to fit the pipe. Its a pretty tight fit, hopefully it doesn't leak.


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
Discussion Starter #60
On the valve clearence: I was able to get just in spec at .10 intake and .20 exhaust. Is it better to be tight like this or looser spec?


Also I forgot which way the oil seal goes in the water pump, can someone let me know? One side is solid with letters on it, the other hollow with a spring around the center.

My manual only talks about 03/04...
(#7 shown here)


 
41 - 60 of 79 Posts
Top