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Never changed mine, but all of the seals I did were solid side with letters facing out.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Thanks bro just to be sure, this correct?



This faces inside the motor, away from mechanical seal:
 

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Discussion Starter #64
Thanks bros.


Gettin closer. Motor is buttoned up. Clutch is in etc.

FCR39 is in and luckily the stock boot works.


Tight fit in a couple ways.

These 2 open ports on the carb, do I need to do anything with them?

If I get time tomorrow, gonna try and plug the harness in and see if she will fire.
 

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I believe those are drain lines. I’d just put a couple lengths of hose on them to keep dirt out. Looking good!
 

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Discussion Starter #66
Well I took her for a motoman break in rip.

Didnt run the sack off but you can tell its got alot of power. The dual piston brakes are really awesome. Smiled from ear to ear on it lol.

Still waiting on my intake tube parts. No smoke out the pipe so hopefully I did get those rings right!

Its got a nasty bog, so ill have to mess with it. If you goose it at idle it will die.

The big obvious issue, is there is definitely a rattle sound from what seems to be the cam chain. I put a new wiseco chain in. When I put the tensioner back in, I retracted the rod...the let the bolt push it back in upon install. Any ideas of what I did wrong?







Didnt take this long to turn color
 

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Is that a new tensioner or the one that came off? Take it back out and see where it is on the clicks.
 

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Discussion Starter #68 (Edited)
Its just the stock one. Took it out and only had a click or 2 left. Tried another stock one and the same noise. Gonna try a manual tensioner.



 

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This is another reason that I like manual tensioners. It's not uncommon to put a new chain in one of these, and only have a couple clicks left. I suspect worn guides to be the culprit, but I've never seen proof of that.

The key to the manual tensioner is in how you set it. It takes some finesse, and that's why they're not for everyone. Put the engine on TDC compression before you install it, or it can jump time. The same goes for any tensioner.

Install the manual tensioner, then screw it in just to the point where the chain is taut. If anything, leave just a little free play. It's better to be slightly loose than slightly tight. Snug the lock nut.

Next start the engine, and release the lock nut while holding on to the adjustment nut. Adjust it while running, listening for the sound of the timing chain specifically. Not that the cams make some noise, and can fool you. I take the adjuster in a bit listening for the chain slap to stop, back out a little until I hear it, noting the point where you start to hear the sound. I try to lock it down right at that point. If anything, I will leave it a little on the loose side, and let it make a light sound. It's better to be slightly loose, than slightly too tight.

Once set, I never really have to mess with them, but I do have my engines apart occasionally trying different things. Whenever the noise gets noticeable, go through the same procedure.


As for the bog, it probably needs more accelerator pump shot. Does it have the o-ring mod? What leak jet does it have?
 

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Discussion Starter #70 (Edited)
Thanks CFM! Great info. Ill report back when I get it in.

Im using a Slant FCR 39, not the MX from the yellow quad. I think there is no leak jet in those.

Took a quick look and the AP isnt shooting gas at all when using throttle....? EDIT: Confirmed clogged AP nozzle, found passage to clear it out.

Looking into the eddie mod now. Just not really understanding how to grind down the center. Mine looks to already be flush with the "outer ring"...? Also is it the top or bottom that is gound down? (top being spring side where the plunger touches to push in)



When I push the AP in with a wire it has a nice pump action. When I assemble and twist throttle, its like the AP arm doesn't have enough pressure to actuate the diaphram. Im assuming this is why you tie together?



OCEMN needle on the 3rd clip.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
Ok I looked at a couple threads and found that it is the spring side to grind. Got the eddie mod done and it sprays nice and strong missing the plate just barely.

Now its leaking gas out of the hole that leads down to the diaphram (arm plunger hole?) What did I do wrong?

 

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Does that hole where the AP rod goes into the plastic arm have any slop to it?
 

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Discussion Starter #73 (Edited)
Yes the bent part that goes in the arm hole has a little slop. Ill get some type of bushing.

That said, its the brass part that leaks where the straight shaft goes in to.

Also noticing its got a long 4 sec spray into carb.


EDIT: Took everything back apart, reset all gaskets wire etc. Now seems to shoot perfectly and no leak. lol wtf. Just my luck I suppose!
Considering it wasn't shooting at all, this should help the bog.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
Happy Holidays Bros

Finally my MCCT showed up. Talk about a close fit! I may have to move that black box, hopefully just lengthen the lines and stick it somewhere else.



Was able to get the air intake together. I copied the one here in the forum using the intercoler silicone and aluminum pipe. Blue cuz it makes the air colder duh.

Finally all complete. Will take her for a rip tomorrow and hopefully get the MCCT dialed in.


 

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I have the same carb, had a bog as well when I set it up. I had the ocem needle in it. Change it to the NVCQ needle, 3rd clip from the top. It made a huge difference on mine.
I can search from my jetting.....have no clue anymore.
Found it:

2005 Z400

Carb Type: ---> Old Style Slant FCR 39
Main Jet: ---> 165
Pilot Jet: ---> 45
Fuel Screw: ---> 2 turns out
Needle: ---> NCVQ 3rd clip
Airbox: ---> None
Intake:---> Fuel Custom Intake from TRX450 (older)
Pipe: ---> Yoshimura RS-3
Engine Displacement: ---> 434cc
Cams: ---> NSHC
CDI: ---> Dyna FS Non Programmable
Altitude: ---> 0-1500 feet
 

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Discussion Starter #76 (Edited)
Thanks Spize.

Got the MCCT adjusted way in, but will not get rid of the tick. Seems a little better so hopefully its just the hotcam noise. Im afraid to really crank it in hard. I dont know what kind of tension we are talking.



Took it for a rip and the bog is gone now, the thing has a ton of power...night and day diff than my stocker. Thing freeking rips.

Bad news is, I got back after the quick ride and there is tons of oil blowing out of the black box everywhere. I could cry. What did I do wrong?




I really hope this smoke is just from the oil getting in the air filter.
It was not overfilled and now its a little low since losing the oil.

 

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Typically, oil from the black box is either from overfilling the engine oil, or blow by. I wouldn't panic just yet. It may be worth washing the black box out, verifying the oil level, and trying it again.

I actually don't even use a black box anymore. I plug the vent at the cylinder, then run the big hose from the valve cover, at an upward angle, to a filter up by the steering stem bushing. I have found that to work pretty good. Many say that it can't be done, but I have not had a problem doing this on either of my big bore strokers.

On a side note, was that filter dry? They need oil to filter any dust.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Boy did life get in the way of this.

After I built this and it smoked...it took ALL the wind out of my sails and pushed it in the corner of the garage.

Im mustering up the nerve to drag it back out and see if I can fix it.

I remember the oiler ring was a PITA to keep from overlapping....maybe that is what is causing the bad smoke.

That said, ill have to buy new cometic headgasket and rings I believe?
 

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See what you got going on first. May have rolled a ring while installing it, but I would check first before ordering new ones.
 
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