[Sight Z-er]

Howdy,

I've decided that I'd like to do a small maintenance focused overhaul on the top end of my machine and I have a few questions. I've dug through pages of information and find people parroting information they've read more often then conversations from people with first hand experience.

-Valves

First of all I want to swap out my valves, with the passing of Ron from RHC it seems the best option is no longer available. So that leaves me between a complete Kibblewhite kit or a DRZ E kit and a set of Ferra valves.

I like the idea of the KW because it comes with everything and it's all engineered to work together correctly and the price is a bit better. It seems KW had a bad batch 20yrs ago and a lot of people claim to have had issues with them, conversely a lot of people seem to have had good luck as well. Also, these valves 1 piece? I can't find a straight answer.

Do I have to have my seats cut if they look okay or can I just do a light lap to check for/insure good seal and heat transfer? According to a post I read Kibblewhite claims that a light compound is okay to use even with their white diamond coated valves. There was a lot of debate in the thread but if the manufacturer says it I'll go by that.

While I have the head apart I plan to clean up the intake port casting defects and give it a 80g finish, the exhaust will get cleaned, matched to my header and polish along with the combustion chamber. I may deshroud the valves just a bit following KFXguys sticky. I'll also check it's flatness and surface it.

-Timing Chain

I figure I ought to replace the timing chain while I'm in there, I'm still on the OE tensioner, I'll probably cut a coil or 2 off the spring after I replace the chain. I don't trust myself to remember to check on a MCCT often enough.

Is there a reason to get a DID 4/5 chain over OEM for typical build? Id like to get some cams down the road but it seems the OEM chain got a bad rapp due to the tensioner being too aggressive from what I understand.

Also are the guides typically replaced on these machines or is that a case by case basis depending on wear?

-Rings and E Gasket.

Since I'll have the head off I figure I may as well do the E gasket. I assume my compression is fine and my machine doesn't smoke so I think the rings are fine. I've read that once removed the rings need to be replaced. I could just snip the outer 2 layers of the base gasket like NormalZ shared and leave the piston in the jug too, seems a bit hokey, but it does work just fine so whatever I guess.

The main reason I'm hesitant to pull the jug and do the E gasket right is the need to(or not to) deglaze the cylinder for the fresh rings and the never ending argument of whether or not you can use a hone on a coated cylinder.

-Other

The other maintenance item I plan to replace is the oil pump gear with a new OEM part. Is there anything I'm forgetting while I'll have the top end that I should address?



Thanks in advance for any help and for reading my long rambling post!

 

[cwright2006ltz]

While your head is off you might looks to see if all the cam ratainers are good and if all the cam journals look good.

 

[Sight Z-er]

For sure, I've only had the valve cover off once to check the valve clearance on this thing, I'll be bummed and surprised if the journals are tore up.

 

[JOE G]

I used Wiesco Vavles and have no issues, I would use KW or Ferra as well with out worry, I would go to a dual spring I used DRZ Springs. I would replace the retainers and seals as well.

Timing chain D.I.D HD for sure and I replace the guides but you can pull yours and see first.

I would replace the Oil Pump gear but probably leave the pump.

I would do the base gasket and I would replace rings ( depending on hrs and wear ) but you can check ring gap, If you replace rings you should de glaze cylinder, I have used hones on Coated cylinders with out issue ( Rebuild snowmobile top ends often ).

Now would be the time to do the cams.

 

[Sight Z-er]

This is exactly the input I was looking for, thank you!

What type hone did you use, I've seen both 3 stone and dingle ball suggested. 3 stone would be easier for me to run to the store and grab but I can order a ball hone if needed. I assume the finer grit the better and just do it lightly?

Edit: looks like 240grit aluminum oxide 95.3mm is the best option after doing some research.

I'd do cams now but I'd rather just do engine maintenance at the moment and go through my suspension, then down the rode go with a set of cams. The FCR woke the engine up enough for me for now. I ride some small MX tracks and some pretty brutally rocky and choppy trails so there are lots of gains to be had in the suspension dept. I also do some TT racing for fun at a local track but I'm not too worried about being super competitive in that if I'm honest.

 

[cwright2006ltz]

What do you plan on doing for you suspension?

 

[Sight Z-er]

What do you plan on doing for you suspension?

Having my front shocks rebuilt and revalved. Have yet to decide how I feel about the rear shock with the LTR swingarm. At least that's the plan, it's been a bit since I reached out to Ishock, hopefully they can still revalve them.

 

[cwright2006ltz]

If you have the money and want a shocks that are a little better get piggyback trx450r double or triple rate shocks Then get them revalve. used one of fb marketplace are only like 300 - 500 for a not abused set.

 

[JOE G]

I have used both style hones, I believe ball is the preferred. The reason I suggest cams is that you have it all apart and so it just makes it easier and less time consuming. But either way you are on to a good track.