Replacement Carb for '92 LT230E
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It will run at idle and full throttle but not midrange. It will dump fuel out of the overflow occasionally. Float height according to the manual is .946" +/- .004". I've ordered a choke plunger rebuild kit thinking it may be worn and allowing fuel to pass by all the time. Pulling the body work and tank now to get a better look into the intake to see if there is some kind of obstruction. Compression is good, valves are good.
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You can diagnose most carburetor issues according to the throttle position where they happen and where the problem goes away.
Idle gets fuel from the pilot jet and fuel screw. Primarily the fuel screw, but it's supplied through the pilot jet. When you open the throttle, 1/8 - 1/4 throttle is all pilot jet. Around 1/4 it will transition to the slide needle.
The needle is in control from 1/4-3/4 throttle. This is most likely where your problem lies. Something related to the needle. There's a plastic plug that locates the needle in the stock slide. It has an o-ring that sets in a groove to keep the needle in place. These were not the most reliable way to locate a needle.
From 3/4 to wide open, is all about the main jet.
So maybe change the needle position? A new needle and seat came with the kit and I installed the needle clip into the same position as the old one was. The bike does have an aftermarket Supertrap exhaust that has been in place for several years. It ran fine several years after the exhaust was installed,
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Never use the jets or other tuning parts that come with carb repair kits, or if you really need to, make sure the number matches the old part. I've seen many times where they don't send the right sizes, whether it's because the machine has been modified, which sounds like yours has, or whether the kit just didn't come with the right jets. The kits are great in that they get you new gaskets and a new needle and seat, but that's all I use from them.
I did check the jet size and the numbers match but looking through the jets, they are not the same. I did reinstall the old main jet. I'm beginning to think the engine may be a little out of time. Going to check this in the morning. When it quit running, it was abrupt, not a gradual event. I may have jumped onto the carburetor prematurely. I have not check the timing chain tension either. If it has slack it could be the problem. Thank you for your responses.
I was incorrect stating that compression was good. I just believed it was ok evidenced by the resistance felt when operating the pull starter. Measuring compression yielded about 105 lbs., falling short of the serviceable limit of 145 lbs. and normal spec of around 175 lbs. So, I am pulling the motor for a new piston and ring set. Cylinder bore measures good at just over 66 mm in several locations top to bottom. Thinking is, the carb flooding thinned out the oil considerably and wiped the ring seal. New gasket set, piston and rings being researched now. An after Christmas project as if I don't have enough already.
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These have a decompression release, which can make compression tests inconsistent. I would recommend doing a leak down test, because piston and rings are not always the cause of lost compression. Very often it's the valves, if there's even a problem at all. The leak down tester will show you what is actually leaking, and how bad.
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