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I know we all have trouble trying to deal with those cheesy, cheap screws that hold on the float bowl when we need to rejet. Don't even try to untighten them with a phillips screwdriver because you WILL strip them out. Here is what I what I have done on several bikes/quads (because they all have the same problem) and it works like a champ.

Go to a specialty hardware store and get a very small pair of needle nose vise grip pliers (mine are about 5 inches in length total). Make sure they are the needle nose ones with ribbed jaws. The jaws should be about 1/8th of an inch wide.

Set them so that they are about 1/16th of an inch wide when closed. Grip the outside of the screw and apply constant, gentle, but increasing torque. If the pliers slip off, make them tighter. The screws WILL break loose. The outside of the head of the screw will be slightly roughed up, but the screw will still take the phillips head when you need to retighten after changing the jet. From that point on you can use a phillips with no problem.

Let me know how this works for you.
 

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Or you can use your method to get them out and replace them with #4 hex head screws
 

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QUOTE
I know we all have trouble trying to deal with those cheesy, cheap screws that hold on the float bowl when we need to rejet. Don't even try to untighten them with a phillips screwdriver because you WILL strip them out. Here is what I what I have done on several bikes/quads (because they all have the same problem) and it works like a champ.

Go to a specialty hardware store and get a very small pair of needle nose vise grip pliers (mine are about 5 inches in length total). Make sure they are the needle nose ones with ribbed jaws. The jaws should be about 1/8th of an inch wide.

Set them so that they are about 1/16th of an inch wide when closed. Grip the outside of the screw and apply constant, gentle, but increasing torque. If the pliers slip off, make them tighter. The screws WILL break loose. The outside of the head of the screw will be slightly roughed up, but the screw will still take the phillips head when you need to retighten after changing the jet. From that point on you can use a phillips with no problem.

Let me know how this works for you.[/b]
the new craftmans mini ones work great
 

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I know about 3 people (myself included) that had zero problem trying to remove those screws. Good screw driver+firm grip+push hard= removed screw and no problems. :?:
 

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I never had a problem getting them out either.
 

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mine were in there good, i got the good old hammer impact screwdriver out. picked the right head, about 10 shots with a hammer later, they were out with minimal head damage
ac
 

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i heard all the horror stories and just decided to drill out and replace them. no hammers, no headaches!
 

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no problems with mine either, i even reused them. they were tight but came out with no problems.
 

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My screws were super tight so I didnt want to strip them out. I got an impact screw driver 2 hits and they were loose.Got some allen head screws from lowes.
 

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carb

i dont know how tight mine are sure there tight because when i tore this quad down to the ground i ended up figuring that suzuki must own the factory that makes locktight because they use it evrywhere on this quad . didnt ever even see how the thing worked before i took it off but if someone wants extra carb i have one for sell along with everything else except for brakes,frame , motor and elec
 

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:gun2 I don't understand why everybody thinks it is so hard to get these screws out. I just rescently installed a Dynojet kit. I tried to get the screws out and, like everyone elses, they stripped. Instead of using pliers or whatever, I just grabbed my trusty Dremel and a heavy duty cut-off wheel. I made slots in all of the screws which let me use a standard, straight-slot screwdriver. After that, they came out rather easy. When I finished, I was able to re-use the screws and the next time I took them out, it was even easier.
 

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yup the good ole dremel worke wonders. i even had to slot the three screws that hold the plate for the throttle cable on cause i completely removed my carb but slotting mad it work great i would recomend this to everyone! i tore my carb complettly down and back together in less then 30 min with this method.
 

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QUOTE
I don't understand why everybody thinks it is so hard to get these screws out.[/b]
I didn't "think" it was hard, it was hard. The fact that you can't use a plain-jane screwdriver to get them out makes it hard. 3 of the screws came out with an impact screwdriver. 1 screw basically disentegrated and had to be coaxed out with a dremel and flathead impact piece.
 
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Headache for me also...

Rejetted my KFX400 today and geeeeeeeez, a major headache getting off the float bowl screws as others have mentioned here. I had to use a needle nose vice grip plier (NEEDLE NOSE VICE GRIP) to grab the screw heads and loosen the screws. The stock phillips slots quit even though I used a new, properly sized phillips head driver with lots of pressure. The last screw was so tight I could not even budge it with the vice grips so I drilled the head of it off and then it came out easily. I replaced the stock screws with plain steel cap screw socket (allen head) screws "4mm x 10mm"
puchased at Home Depot. Be sure not to go longer then 10mm or risk damage to carb. Use plenty of anti-seize and be sure to work the screws in and out so the anti-seize coats all well. By the way, did not remove the carb to do the jet change. Loosened clamps and turned the carb. Had to unbolt temporarily the small black box that resides on the other side of the carb. Anyway, jet change was easy BUT nightmare this first time because of brass screws. I might mention Kawasaki uses those screws as other metal screws will react with the aluminum and kind of weld themselves. MUST use anti-seize on replacement regular steel screws or risk problems. Bill in NY
 

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Use these screws....
 

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I stripped the crap outta mine way back in July. I tried everything from an easy out to the hammer and could not get a bite at all on those weak ass brass screws.
They use them since brass does not create a spark. I tossed them cause brass also sucks A$$.
I had to dremmel the heads of the screws right off, remove the bowl and got to Lowe's for a set of allans too. Easy to work on now.
 

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Ummm.... The stock screws are not brass. They are zinc plated steel. Try em out on a magnet... :roll:
 
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QUOTE
Use these screws....
[/b]


Actual size of screw is "4mm x 10mm" and they look like the pic :cool:
Also, not really critical/or at all a must that you use a lock washer.
 
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