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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I tried removing my spark plug the other day but it seized up and when I turned it it just snapped. The only part left is the threaded part of the spark plug so I cannot grab it with pliers.

I removed the head and I have lubed it as much as I could and tried to turn it with a flat head screwdriver and a hammer but it will not move, instead the screwdriver just digs in into the plug.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

I can post a pic if it helps.
 

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chino buddy....you need to stay away from quads. not really sure jwhat the best way to get that out is. yea if you can put up a pic that might help some. maybe use a little heat in the area and try to carefully get it out with a screwdriver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
chino buddy....you need to stay away from quads. not really sure jwhat the best way to get that out is. yea if you can put up a pic that might help some. maybe use a little heat in the area and try to carefully get it out with a screwdriver.
Hahaha I know man, I've been having the worst of luck with these engines lately.
Isn't the head aluminium? I was the told that because of the different expansion rate that heating up wouldn't work properly.

I thought about an easy out but because it's seized up in there I'm scared that the ez out will break in there.
 

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Hahaha I know man, I've been having the worst of luck with these engines lately.
Isn't the head aluminium? I was the told that because of the different expansion rate that heating up wouldn't work properly.

I thought about an easy out but because it's seized up in there I'm scared that the ez out will break in there.
The expansion rates work to your advantage, as the aluminum expands more. You can then try some candle wax or penatrant and see if it will wick down the threads.

If the center is out of the plug, you can try a HIGH QUALITY (Snapon, Mac, Rigid) extractor very carefully. If it doesn't loosen, stop.

Don't know what access you hav to a machine shop or machines over there, but if you can mount it in a drill press or milling machine and start a drill from the combustion chamber side, low speed and high pressure, the drill bit will often grab the remainder of the plug and turn/push it out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The expansion rates work to your advantage, as the aluminum expands more. You can then try some candle wax or penatrant and see if it will wick down the threads.

If the center is out of the plug, you can try a HIGH QUALITY (Snapon, Mac, Rigid) extractor very carefully. If it doesn't loosen, stop.

Don't know what access you hav to a machine shop or machines over there, but if you can mount it in a drill press or milling machine and start a drill from the combustion chamber side, low speed and high pressure, the drill bit will often grab the remainder of the plug and turn/push it out.
I can take it to a machine shop so that wouldn't be a problem.
I didn't know that about the expansion rate, I will try it later. Thanks for the help. :)
 

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Look up tips by doing a search for Ford modular broken plug. It's a common problem with the ford 4.6, 5.4, and 6.8 engines. Lots of tips and tricks for getting them out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'll search that. Thanks street fighter.
Well I had an ngk iridium spark plug and another spare one so I'll just put the spare iridium one.
 

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Dam that sucks! What I would do is take it a bath in WD-40 and give it very light taps with a screw driver then soak it again and lightly tap it again. Let it sit for a while and see if it helped? When you put a new one in, make sure you put some anti seize lube on the threads to avoid problems in the future:)
 

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what you should actually do since you keep having problems with Suzukis is send me your LTR and get you a YFZ :eek::blah:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
what you should actually do since you keep having problems with Suzukis is send me your LTR and get you a YFZ :eek::blah:
Never! I hate yfzs!
 

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Maybe the machine shop is the way to go, if it's not too much you could save yourself more problems? Id hate to see you break an easy out or mess up the threads or something over a $20 bill. Good luck
 

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Spray Some PB Blaster on it and let it sit for a day than it will fall right out lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I just tried and ez out but it didn't move it one bit. I'm gonna try drilling it next as close to the thread as close as posible to the thread and see what I can do from there. If not, I'll have to helicoil it.

Paying the machine shop is not a problem, I just wanted to see if I could do it myself before tomorrow so I can go ride.

Thanks for the help pulido, I have tried that and it won't move at all.

Johndeere, I would try that but unfortunately we don't get that stuff over here but thanks for the help.
 

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Can you drill out the inside, tap it, run a bolt down from the top side through the plug, double nut the bolt, then back it up till the nut hits the bottom of the plug, then turn to break it loose?
 

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I just tried and ez out but it didn't move it one bit. I'm gonna try drilling it next as close to the thread as close as posible to the thread and see what I can do from there. If not, I'll have to helicoil it.
Like I said, drill from the combustion chamber side, hopefully with a gear reduction 1/2" drill motor, head mounted securely somehow, maybe fasten it to a board on the ground, and lots of downward pressure. You are MUCH better off if the drill bit grabs into the plug- it will push (screw) it right through!
 

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^^^agreed, this works good sometimes, i have had this work before with left hand drill bits. Something like a right angle drill would be a good choice, right? Just be very careful drilling from the chamber side, if you break the bit, you could wreck the head. A dig mark would cause a hotspot.
 

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^^^agreed, this works good sometimes, i have had this work before with left hand drill bits. Something like a right angle drill would be a good choice, right?
No, if I didn't have a large drill press to fasten it too (a small drill press's speeds are too fast) I would screw it, bolt it, whatever to a piece of plywood or 2x6 on the floor. Then I would stand on the wood and use a gear driven high torque drill like this, with two opposing handles to hold on tight, also using my legs to brace my arms so when the drill grabs it doesnt twist the drill motor out of my hands. In this position I can use my weight to press down hard and hopefully get the drill to grab and turn the plug out. Idea is to NOT make chips, but get it to grab.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks again for the help guys. I found a decent machine shop that said they could get it out for me for $15 so I'll be dropping it off there.
 
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