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Ok our goal here is to split the cases of a LTZ400 to help the many people out that are going to install an aftermarket crank like the HotRods. I'm going to start this at the point that the top end is removed already and bottom end removed from the frame. Side note: If you doing this I'm going to assume you know how to do normal thinks like remove side covers and such

To start we need to discuss tools that are needed for the job.
  1. Sockets 8mm-17mm
  2. Socket 27mm
  3. Assorted Screw drivers
  4. Extended Magnet
  5. Torque Wrench(s) Capable of 7ft/lbs to 120+ ft/lbs
  6. Impact Screwdriver
  7. SUZUKI LTZ400 MANUAL
  8. Snap ring tool
  9. Allen sockets 4mm-10mm
  10. LTZ400 Flywheel puller
  11. LocTite Blue color
  12. Suzuki Bond 1207B #99104-31140
  13. Good Impact gun
  14. Rubber Mallet
Optional tools not used but recommended for the job and it's not my fault if you break something because you didn't use them.
  1. Off set 27mm wrench (Bent mine up myself)
  2. Clutch Sleeve Hub Holder #09920-53740
  3. Crank Case Separating Tool #09920-13120
  4. Crankshaft Installer #09910-32812
  5. Spacer #09910-32820
  6. Attachment #09911-11310
Now let’s get to work:
First start with a clean work area and set out your tools for easy access. I also use small boxes or zip locks to store parts as they come off to keep things together.

Now remove the side covers for both the Flywheel side and Clutch side. Don't forget the bolt behind the started reducer gear on the Flywheel side. You need to remover the stator too BTW.

Once their out turn to the Flywheel side 1st. The small gear will remove by hand and you can pull out the rod it's on but is not needed. This is the point where I zip of the flywheel nut with a 17mm socket and the impact gun. I usually hold the rod in my finger to keep it from flying around but you the right way to do it is to put a 27mm wrench on the opposite side of the crank.

Now we are going to remove the reverse sensor. There are 2 4mm Allen bolts that hold in the sensor. Notice which way is up because if you install it upside down all your forward gears will have a rev limit on them like the reverse gear. Once you remove the sensor you will see this...

As you can see there is an o-ring and two pins that are in the shift drum. Pull the pins out with the magnet and they will come with two small springs. Keep all that together and spin the motor around we are done on this side for now.

We need to pull off the whole clutch assembly. I'm assuming again that you have changed you clutch so remove the cover and all the plates. Now you need to flatten down the Hub washer and zip off the retaining nut with the Impact and 27mm socket. Here is where the Hub Sleeve tool thingy is used but I just put a large screwdriver to hold the hub and the impact zips it off so fast it's really not that bad.

Pull everything off and keep it together. There is a washer between the Hub and the basket, also there is a collar that usually on the back of the basket but sometimes it sticks to the shaft. Now it should look like this...

First I pull off the Oil pipe. Next if the cam chain guide and there is a washer behind the guide you don't want to lose. Then the chain should just snake right off. Next using the snap ring tool we are going to remove the Oil Pump Idle gear and the Oil Pump Drive Gear. Watch the Drive gear because it has an indexing rod that you can see in the pic. Now the Oil pump assembly needs to be removed and this is where you MUST use the impact screwdriver or else you are going to strip the heads of the bolts and will be drilling them out. Once the screws are removed you can pull the assembly off and it should look like this...

I highlighted that shaft because it has a snap ring on it and it looks like it should come off but DON'T REMOVE IT OR IT WILL FALL OUT WHEN YOU SPLIT THE CASES.

Now we are going to get the shifter shaft out of the way. There is a Snap ring on the Flywheel side that needs to be removed and the shaft just pushes through the cases. There is a washer behind the snap ring and also behind the assembly that you’re pushing out. See pics below...


BTW: This shaft should come out real easy. If it doesn't you will have to give it some persuasion and when it's out check it for damage. These bend a lot on Z400's.

Now I found I don't have a real good pic of the next part. OH well you should have a Manual and the pic in there is good. Next we need to get out the Impact screwdriver(I love that tool) and take off the screws that hold the GearShift Pawl Lifter off and the Stopper Arm off. The stopper arm has a spring that you can pull off easy with some pliers but is a pain to put back on there when you install. Now you should see this.

That little ball of joy you see there is the Gearshift Cam Driven Gear and is a spring loaded. I like to take that off and wrap it with a zip tie to keep it together while being stored. The shaft it rides on just comes off with a 10mm bolt.

Now we move to the counter balance. This is where I use the penny between the gears while I could use the off set wrench. Any way, put the 17mm on the impact and the penny in-between the gears as shown below and zip the nut right off.

Now you will notice the indexing dots that must be aligned when you get everything back together.

Next I get a new penny and place it back into the gears. 27mm Socket it need for the nut on the crank and it's LEFT HANDED THREADS. Which means you set the impact to the setting that normally tightens bolts down and it will loosen this ONE nut.

Now that the nuts are off, to remove the counterbalance gear I just use a couple magnets and it pulls right off. Just make sure you get the pin that holds the gear in place. Next you can remove the series of gears on the crank shaft until you get to the primary drive gear. This one is always a pain. I use a small pry bar and slowly pry on the gear while spinning the crank to different positions to work the gear off. It is going to take a while but it's the only way I know.

Ok now we are all done with that side. Spin the motor around and we can finish up on the flywheel side. Dig out the flywheel puller and put it to work. Notice I don't unbolt the 5m allens because it's not needed. You should look like this(minus the gear we removed earlier)...

Next you will see a key embedded into the crank shaft. This comes out with some light tapping with a screwdriver and mallet. After that the Starter Driven Gear will come right off. Now we are almost there.

The final case bolts are on both sides of the cases. There are 8 bolts on the Clutch Side and 6 Bolts on the Flywheel side. Once they are removed and you counted 3 times to make sure you have all 14 bolts it's time to strap the case splitter on. I use a 2x4 that I setup to do the job with a simple puller from Autozone. As you pulling the cases apart keep a close eye on them to see if they are coming out evenly. There is two dowel pins on both ends and the cases like to stick there. I use the rubber mallet to tap the cases(I said Tap) and they usually free up. Also tap the trans shaft the clutch rids on so that it stays in place. This will keep your trans parts all in the right places. My first set I didn't notice and had to put the trans all back together and it was a pain.


Well that's it this is what you should have now...



Good Luck to all! Any questions/comments LMK.

Woody
 

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Nice write up Woody!



The only thing I would do different, is not use an impact when you have a penny between the teeth of some gears. You can tweak or crack a gear tooth and not even know it. (Its happened to me before)

I prefer not to use anything between gear teeth at all when I can avoid it. On the Z engine, I like to hold the big Hex in the center of the flywheel to keep things from moving.

Not everyone has a socket that big though LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I sent Alba an email asking how much for the Clutch Sleeve Hub Holder #09920-53740 and they said it was $199.00 for the tool. I'll risk my clutch basket that I can get on ebay for 1/4 of that price.

Woody
 

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Keep in mind, guys, that most motion pro tools can be purchased from your local snapon, mac, matco, cornwell tool truck for a reasonable price. I bought my case splitter and clutch hub holder for around 100$ each from matco.
-Alex Galeczka
Service Manager
CSA Performance
(586)939-RIDE
 

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QUOTE (torquemonster167 @ Nov 1 2007, 03:28 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=635864
Keep in mind, guys, that most motion pro tools can be purchased from your local snapon, mac, matco, cornwell tool truck for a reasonable price. I bought my case splitter and clutch hub holder for around 100$ each from matco.
-Alex Galeczka
Service Manager
CSA Performance
(586)939-RIDE[/b]

I didnt know that! thanks for the info. more stuff for me to order on the snap-on truck now
 

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QUOTE (torquemonster167 @ Nov 1 2007, 02:28 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=635864
Keep in mind, guys, that most motion pro tools can be purchased from your local snapon, mac, matco, cornwell tool truck for a reasonable price. I bought my case splitter and clutch hub holder for around 100$ each from matco.
-Alex Galeczka
Service Manager
CSA Performance
(586)939-RIDE[/b]

Actually, you can get the motion pro stuff from some of the distributors like Parts unlimited also. Most likely for less mark up.

I bought a few things through my Mac man before I realized that.
 

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Great write up!! i am in the process of splitting my cases and couldnt figure out how.
 

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Exacly what I needed! Thanks! :clap:
 

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Can anyone tell me if the tranny stays in place while your pressing out the crank (and bearings) or do you have to remove the cluster before you begin working?
 

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it will all just fall out. but if you stuffed some rags around it, then used some big zipties you might be able to hold it all in place while you pressed out bearings. but set down a few layers of cardboard around where your working in case something falls out it won't break.

The transmission really isn't terrible to put together, just gets a little frustrating if you put them in in the wrong order then have to take a few things out. Putting in the clutch forks can be a little tricky also if you don't have small hands.
 

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QUOTE (Camaro1976 @ Feb 16 2010, 09:36 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=770044
it will all just fall out. but if you stuffed some rags around it, then used some big zipties you might be able to hold it all in place while you pressed out bearings. but set down a few layers of cardboard around where your working in case something falls out it won't break.

The transmission really isn't terrible to put together, just gets a little frustrating if you put them in in the wrong order then have to take a few things out. Putting in the clutch forks can be a little tricky also if you don't have small hands.[/b]
ok. Thanks. :smile:
 

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HELP! .. sorry couldnt figure out how to make new post but woody seems to be very knowledgible about these quads .. picked up a 2003 ltz400 being told needs new starter. put new starter in and oil change check air filter and has spark.. try to start the quad however makes a loud like grinding noise.. it gets compression but sounds like a missing tooth somewhere checked the obvious .. like right inside the starter cover but all the teeth are fine there.. please help with any ideas

also side note .. with clutch pulled all the way in the quad still moves alittle when trying to start in a gear.
 

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Sounds like you have a bad one way clutch. And how to post a topic: go to forums, pick the most relevant section, top left of the page....not quite all the way to the top is a little tab that says "new topic". Cluck it and put your title and then your question...voila'!
 
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